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Kiwi Roadtrip: Week One

Sunday, November 25th, 2007

Nights slept in tent: 2
Amount of money spent repairing the ’91 Nissan: $25
Times we’ve accidentally driven on the wrong side of the road: twice
Number of near-fatal accidents we’ve witnessed: 1
Number of Canadians spotted wearing Canadian flags: 9
Skip-Bo Score: Brooke 6, JR 2

We were so proud of our intentions to camp that the first night of the trip we popped the $49.99 tent on a patch of burnt grass in a busy campground. The tent appeared to be assembled correctly, but we were left with a wad of ropes. We snuck a few glances at our neighbor’s tent, to check if they had used their wad of ropes, and they had. Shit. We would have asked, but they were blasting Pantera and discussing drag racing so we didn’t interrupt.

The second day we started our two-day trek of Abel Tasman National Park, along the coast of the northwest tip of the South Island. The scenery was stunning, and we were left with spectacular photos, huge appetites and blisters.

The rest of the week was spent meandering down the coast. We stopped for a few days in Punakaiki (or was it Punakaika?) where we had a huge house in the bush to ourselves. (Bush=forest ’round here) A short trail from our doorstep lead down to the beach. It was spectacular- and cheap. (USD 35/night)

While everyone was enjoying their turkey, eighteen hours ahead here in New Zealand we went hiking on the Franz Josef glacier. For eight hours a guide lead eleven of us up the glacier, carving steps with an ice axe and forcing us through tiny crevices. Crevices so narrow that my hips almost got stuck. It was intense, awesome, and definitely not safe. I was the only one in the group to fall (typical). My knees look like the swollen bruised peaches that no one will buy on sale at the supermarket.

Tomorrow we set out on the Kepler Track, one of New Zealand’s ‘Great Walks’. Four days and 60 kilometers (37mi), most of which will be uphill. Oh my God. Wish us luck.

Updated photos on Flickr!

Red Wine Reduction in a Hostel

Saturday, November 24th, 2007

IMG_0787.jpg
It’s been almost a year since we left Mothership America. There have been brief bouts of homesickness, usually related to food and family and friends. Thanksgiving in New Zealand stirred about a bit of homesickness in both of us.

We reserved the last available (hostel) room in the village of Franz Josef, home of the Franz Josef glacier. It’s the kind of settlement that only exists for tourists. No one is from Franz Josef, and no one lives there aside from those working in tourism. A place that faux-outdoorsy hippies love, and the kind of town I can stand for approximately 30 hours before running for the border. We planned on a holiday feast at a proper restuarant, but the choices in Glacier Country were slim. So we took over the hostel kitchen.

Hostel kitchens are accustomed to easy, cheap fare. The Brits and Germans are always making sausages, the Italians and anyone who speaks Spanish are always incorporating canned tuna, and the few young Asian girls struggle with anything…due to foriegn ingredients and the cultural tradition of living with their mothers (who cook for them). Last week I couldn’t resist an intervention as two young Japanese girls attemped to make pancakes without oil or butter in the pan. Domestic nightmare.

Turkey wasn’t an option, but we did score the last roast chicken off of the supermarket’s warming rack. Then I asked the manager if they carried canned pumpkin. He let me down, but proudly delivered me to the produce section where they sold fresh pumpkin. I stared, bewildered, at the orange squash wrapped in celophane. Who the hell makes pumpkin pie with fresh pumpkin? I’m willing to wager that even Martha sticks with Libby’s. Supermarket Manager shrugged when I told him it wouldn’t work, and I began sulking immediatly. [read on]

Kiwi Roadtrip

Monday, November 19th, 2007
We're currently exploring New Zealand's South Island in the comfort of a 1993 Nissan Maxima, rented from a friend's roommate for $140/month. We're also doing some camping...which is interesting considering our previous combined camping experience amounts to three nights in ... [Continue reading this entry]

The First World Isn’t Funny

Tuesday, November 6th, 2007
After almost 10 months in Asia, our arrival in Australia was a bit surreal. All the white people...all of the big, fat white people...it was a real shock to the system. We've grown accustomed to not really understanding what anyone ... [Continue reading this entry]