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Ten Things That Have Happened To Us In The Last Week

Friday, November 3rd, 2006

1. All three of us, Megan, Sarah and Zil, rode a ferris wheel in Todos Santos. The ticket booth indicated that the ride had, at one point, lived in Chicago (like Zil). We were on the ferris wheel for, I kid you not, 1 hour.

2. We successfully navigated our way through the Guatemalan hillsides using only a map drawn on a napkin. We dubbed this map our “mapkin.”

3. Sarah and Megan both became ill and spent some quality time in the bathroom.

4. Megan met John, an attorney from San Francisco, who had previously been law partners and close personal friends with Bob Lieff, of Lieff, Cabraser, Heimann & Bernstein, Megan’s last place of employment. Megan has never met Bob Lieff personally, though she has seen him in the elevator on two occasions. He wears expensive cuff links and, according to John, recently married his sixth wife. John, unlike Bob Lieff, knows Megan’s name.

5. Since then, we have met more than 5 people who live in San Francisco. It seems that there are far more Americans in Guatemala than in Mexico.

6. We watched the coronation of the Queen of Todos Santos, in which several young women paraded up and down a high-school auditorium floor and an announcer spoke into a microphone so muffled that absolutely none of the event was intelligible to us gringos. The only part we understood was the dancing.

7. We watched the All Saints Days festivities in Todos Santos, during which incredibly drunk men attempt to stay mounted on their horses as they raced back and forth. All day. In red striped pants.

8. Megan and Zil entered a Todosantero bar to escape from the horse races, where they encountered Julia, a small Mam woman who’s father had passed away. Since it was the eve of Day of the Dead, Julia was celebrating her father’s life by drinking and dancing. Julia proceeded to dance with Megan and Zil, grabbing tightly onto their index fingers, until her relatives took her home. Since Julia was about half the size of both Megan and Zil, things got interesting whenever she attempted to twirl them.

9. We took 2 buses on a 5 hour journey from Todos Santos to Xela, paying only $4 U.S. each. Each of these buses let us off at the bus station, which, conveniently, is on the Lonely Planet map.

10. Last but not least, we signed up for a Spanish school at Sakribal to start on Monday. The tuition, room and board comes to a whopping $145 U.S. per person per week.

-Megan and Sarah

Our First Off-The-Map Adventure

Tuesday, October 31st, 2006

I don´t even know where to start. Just the past few days have given us so many stories… try we must.

Crossing the border from Mexico to Guatemala was a study in complexity. We hired a van to smooth the border crossing, having learned that the several steps necessary were not at all easily navigated. Boy, were we glad we did. Before leaving Mexico, you have to sign out. The Mexican immigration office is well-kept, the luxuriously wide roads relatively free of trash, and the people confined to buidlings or sidewalks. From there, you drive 4 km into Guate. The road narrows and fills with people, trash, and rain water. There is barely enough room for the van to pass through, and had our van not taken us directly to the Guatemalan immigration office, we might still be at the Mexican border.

We had planned on meeting Zil (our friend from college) in Huehuetenango, which is a small city that is off the tourist trail (compared, at least, to every where we´ve been so far). It´s far enough off the tourist trail that while arranging our transport, we had a difficult time convincing the van driver that we were headed to Huehuetenango. We ended up in a van full of people headed to hotter tourist spots like Xela, but Huehue was on the way and no one objected to our paying the same price for a shorter ride. Imagine our surprise when our van driver pulled up next to a tire shop on the highway, announced that we were in Huehue, and left us and our bags by the side of the road. Everywhere we´ve ended up so far has been accompanied by a Lonely Planet map… this was not. Half and hour later and $11 U.S. dollars poorer (a ridiculous sum in Guate), we found ourselves in Huehue. It was our first off-the-map adventure, but we made it through and met up with Zil that evening.

The next morning we found our way to a chicken bus (an old recycled American school bus) to Todos Santos. The trip from Huehue is about 20 miles, but it takes three and a half hours. The last hour of the drive is on a dirt road. Todos Santos is a very small Mayan Villiage full of people who speak Mam. All of the men and boys wear the same outfit of red striped pants and blue and white striped shirts while the women and girls all wear the same skirt and shawl. It´s pretty incredible. At first I thought it was like nothing I had every seen, until I realized that when you´re walking the financial district of San Francisco or Mid-town Manhattan, the uniform is a dark business suit. This one is a little different becuase it involves red striped pants… the idea is basically the same.

We´re off for a hike in the local hills — our map is drawn on a napkin and involves directions like ¨when you reach the place where it seems like no one should be able to farm broccoli because it´s so steep, turn right.¨ Thankfully everyone here seems willing to help out lost gringas on their way south.

Even though there´s so much more to say, we´ll have to cut it off here. Stay tuned for more.

-Sarah and Megan