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Archive for February, 2006

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Bored of the Beach

Wednesday, February 15th, 2006

I spent one night in Krabi awaiting my transit to Khao Sok National Park. I’m happy I did as it’s a nice little coastal town that is both comfortable for travelers and rich in Thai culture. I spent the night deciphering the thick French accent of Sebastian before getting politely shooed from the bar at 1am.

This morning I traveled to Khao Sok with the hope of finding a more mellow stop on what has turned out to be the seemingly inescapable tourist trail of Thailand. What better place to get lost than in the oldest Jungle of S.E. Asia?

Upon arrival, I quickly learned that this may actually be the oldest rain forest jungle in the world, no doubt a point of contention with central Africa and the Amazon region. Regardless, it is old and alive with beauty. Like much of the Andaman coast and the isthmus of Thailand, Khao Sok has steep limestone cliffs which appear to have exploded vertically out of the dense jungle below. This region is a geological marvel. The slow dance of coral, water, air and time have shaped this place into the tropical playground it is. Rising sea levels, ice ages, the uplift of continents, and the slow steady chemistry of rock have hollowed out intricate cave systems, some probably left undisturbed; lost among the trees. I am very happy here.

The American dream comes home to roost

Tuesday, February 14th, 2006

The American dream is alive and thriving well…in America. We have successfully exported our hamburgers, blue jeans, and fizzy drinks around the globe, and now there appear to be very few Americans out and about enjoying all of the delicious, calorie-packed treats that were just too good not to share with the rest of the world. In my first week in Thailand, I met only one other American, a 59 year old woman who lives in India and is seeking zen enlightenment. She is the extreme example of the traveler who is searching for something entirely un-american, and giving her soul a cleansing that would make John Lennon proud in the process.But why less Americans in Thailand? The Europeans have come in droves, the Israelis by the planeload, with a sprinkling of Brits, Canadians, and Aussies thrown in for good measure. To be fair, I’ve met quite a few Americans in the past couple of days who were really cool, but I still can’t shake the question of why the differences in numbers are so drastically different. Is it that America is just so spectacular and wealthy that no one wants to leave? Anyone who has either been to Kansas or East St. Louis will know that the answer to this question is, no. Is it that Americans prefer a safer, cleaner packaged holiday confined to destinations like Waikiki, Cabo San Lucas, or Orlando? Perhaps. Or is this part of the larger trend I’ve been witnessing, and process by which the U.S. is becoming more insular, physically and mentally? It is this close-minded nature that has convinced us that two years of a foreign language is sufficient and “Bomb their ass and take the gas” is a perfectly acceptable statement to adorn the back of your Chevy pickup.

I, myself, am embarrassed by the recent actions of the U.S. and usually say I’m from Oregon, not America, and only when asked. I’m seeking to mend fences one person at a time with respect for other cultures, perhaps a few sentences of Thai, and a smile. On the plane to Phuket I explained to the man sitting next to me my plan for long term, prolonged travel through teaching and rafting, to which he replied “what are you running from?” I thought it was a silly question at first. The smart-ass type of thing you say to young idealistic types like me. And I gave the typical idealistic response that I’m not running from anything, I am running towards everything. But the question has stuck in my head and I’ve decided that I am running from my guilt. That irrational, unchangeable guilt from the actions of my country. So I am running in a circle, really; running from guilt and toward some ridiculous feeling of repentance that will afford me the best memories, experiences, and relationships of my life. All with a lighter heart.

This is my American dream.

I love you 1000 baht

Monday, February 13th, 2006
Up early and caught the first boat to Krabi this morning. It was just a boat ride away from Railay, another beach resort that is separated into Railay east and west on opposite sides of a peninsula. Just above ... [Continue reading this entry]

“The beach” the beach

Sunday, February 12th, 2006
Today is my last day on Phi Phi as I'm growing tired of the tourists here. Tomorrow morning I will take the boat to Krabi and plan to do some rock climbing on neighboring Railay and Tonsai beaches.Today me ... [Continue reading this entry]

Grishams and Graftons

Sunday, February 12th, 2006
I can see why people get lost on the beaches of southern Thailand. There is something here for everyone. There are parties for the partier, beer aplenty and cheap, white sand beaches, food to die for, and everyone ... [Continue reading this entry]

Stumbling out of the jungle

Friday, February 10th, 2006
2/10/06 I'm starting to settle in here on Ko Phi Phi nicely, finally getting some solid sleep. Last night I saw some Thai boxing, enjoyed a couple of beers, and chatted with some Swedish girls. Sports, beer, and Swedish ... [Continue reading this entry]

Day two in Bangkok

Wednesday, February 8th, 2006
Last night I met the coolest group of people at Suk 11, the coolest guest house in Bangkok. How fitting. This place exudes charm from every crack of it's four stories. People have plastered their names and ... [Continue reading this entry]

Bangkok day one

Tuesday, February 7th, 2006
Having ended my seamless transition from sedentary life to one on the road in best possible form, I set out into Bangkok today ready to shred all my preconceived notions about this steamy Asian metropolis. The story I heard ... [Continue reading this entry]

A brilliant end to a new beginning

Monday, February 6th, 2006
The last week of my life in Japan had to be the best I can remember. Keep in mind this is coming from a guy who moves around a lot. In the times I've departed in the past there was ... [Continue reading this entry]