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Snorkelling At Xcaret

Originally uploaded by roupiesontour

November 22nd – Birthday Girl

We woke early and O opened her little presents I had got her, makeup, a Mayan zodiac pendant, Mexican egg person that she likes and some smellies from Senor Frog. She will choose her main present when she sees something she likes.

There are a couple of turkeys, ducks and chickens in like a pet coop in the grounds of the hotel. Being Thanksgiving today we were a bit concerned as to the future of the turkeys so we quickly dashed out in the morning and are glad to say they have survived and had not made the menu of the day – maybe Christmas will not be so lucky.

Xcaret was the destination today. As the marketing says, in Mexico all roads lead to Xcaret. It’s a natural tourist park – a small bit of everything from the region. We got picked up at 9.15 and by the time we had picked everyone else up and switched coaches we did not arrive until 12. A bit annoying as the tickets aren’t cheap and you want to get the most use out of the park. The park itself is huge, a bit of a maze as all the paths are surrounded by jungle. We did the underground river tour first. How can I explain it? We saw about 4 fish but were surrounded by the pink vested, flipper wearing tourist at every turn. It was so crowded that I got kicked in the head and legs pulled from behind, not as relaxing as I had hoped but I don’t blame the fish one bit for playing hide and seek.

We saw butterflies, parrots, monkeys, leopards and pumas to name a few. It was a very tiring day. We ate at the Mexican buffet (at an extra $30 each!) but the food was amazing and the chicken breast the best I have ever eaten. The kids stuffed up on desserts and cakes and had fun watching the chefs make quesadillas and tortilla chips.

The evening had a show. The theatre had a roof but no walls. On the approach there were actors dressed up as Mayans and the smell of incense in the air to add to the sense of drama. You were given a candle wrapped in a paper doll as you entered. These were lit at the beginning and as it was dark at this time looked very cool. The show itself represented firstly the history of Mexico from the Mayans to the Spanish invasion and then showed the traditions from the different regions. There was a live game of ball where the ball could only be hit with elbows and hips and a hockey like game played with a burning ball – yes an actual ball on fire! It was very fast and breathtaking. I was concentrating so much on the game that I did not realise my candle had burned down and my paper was on fire!

The best bit was a dance of men in Mexican costume (ponchos and white trousers) with masks of old men on. At the end they took off the masks to reveal – old men! This bought a huge roar and applause from the crowd. We were so tired we slept on the way home……… 

Wednesday November 21^st

Downtown Cancun is well very downtown. The staff at the hotel have been quite rude so we have blitzed to a hotel on the strip – it is O’s birthday soon. We feel much happier here. I can see the ocean from our balcony and there are some shops 5 mins away. We wlaked back along the shore last night – the sea is so turquoise and the sand is like ice cream it is so white. The waves are quite strong so unfortunately no snorkelling unless we go on a day trip. To get cheap tickets and a free breakfast we suffered the whole “not a timeshare” sales pitch this morning but wow the breakfast was good!  

Saturday November 17th

Decided to take the first class bus to Cancun – about $20 each. It’s basically a coach but the seats go right back and there is TV – well a French film with Spanish sub titles! It was nearly empty and a note of warning – the air conditioning was freezing. One woman sat there with a woolly hat on, jacket and we all shivered but the driver would not turn it down. I expect to wake up tomorrow with at least a cold. The scenery is very green – more than I would have thought and flat. There are no rivers or mountains to water the jungle so I don’t know how it stays so green. The motorway pretty much runs through this scenery all the way so not much to see. I had booked our hotel by phone last night so was a bit surprised when we turned up and the receptionist said there was not a room for us. Hmnmm not a great start but we have managed to get a room just down the road with breakfast included.

Friday November 16^th 

Chill day today and the chance to explore Merida. There are 1 million people in the city and although it is busy it is hard to believe. We took an old tour bus round the city and were able to see the beautiful old houses, parks and stunning old churches. So many kids waved at us and ran alongside the bus, I really do like Merida and will be sad to leave it tomorrow when we go to Cancun. 

Thursday November 15^th

Another day another trip. It sounded exciting at the time so I booked a cenote trip – without really knowing what it was. Cenotes are prolific in this region and from what I could make out are like underground caves with water or sinkholes.
On the way there we passed through a Mayan village. Again there were many of those oval huts built with bamboo. A few had doors open and you could see the hammocks inside, strung up in the middle. This is the preferred way for Mayans to sleep.
To add to the excitement of getting to the cenotes there is an old railway line. Small “carts” pulled by horses take you along. My back groaned at the thought of it  but sitting up straight it wasn’t too bad. There were so many different butterflies in the countryside and Josh saw a snake too, it was quite relaxing trotting along.
The first cenote was accessed by a steep wooden staircase and it was an underground pool with a small hole overhead for light. The water was crystal clear, turquoise and swimming with black catfish – a bit freaky! I could not persuade the kids to go in swimming at all.
The second cenote we got to by going down a ladder into a deep hole. This one was smaller, just as turquoise and reminded me of the film The Goonies. The scene was completed by a bat circling in the rafters. It was too good an opportunity to miss – I had to go swimming! The water was cool but once you got used to it – lovely. O came in too and we hung off the tree vines, swang and played chicken swimming up to the very dark corners of the cave. We couldn’t tempt Josh to come in!
The water in the third cave was so deep it was scary. There was a platform for diving and Josh took the plunge in this one. He had company from some others who had joined us and the shouts that echoed off the walls just added to the strangeness to it. We all had a great time and one nice couple have promised to send the video of our swim.
Back to the hotel and the lovely landlady Ofelia. She must be in her 70’s but she is so nice and will help us out with all things. The rooms might be fallng to bits but I would stay here again like a shot, it has a great atmosphere. Out for a walk later we were tempted into a restaurant with the promise of a free margarita – wow was it strong but do as they do in Mexico right!

 

Chichen ItzaOriginally uploaded by roupiesontour

Wednesday November 14th

Every day I wake up and hope some small miracle has happened with my hair. Every day I look more and more like I have Kramer hair (from Seinfeld for those who remember!). There is just no hope in this humidity and I find myself dreaming of a life where straighteners are on hand!

I booked a trip to Chichen Itza through the hotel. It took a couple of hours to get there which always gives a good opportunity for sight seeing. People live in such poverty here – oval huts where the walls are constructed of bamboo and a thatched roof. An electric meter and single power line just outside the front door seem totally at odds to the building. I have also noticed many people have that striking Mayan look, to me the word calm springs to mind, faces seem almost serene.

Chichen Itza itself is madness. For those of you who have ever been to Venice and seen the madness of the “follow the umbrella” type tour – you will know what I am talking about. The ruins are swarming with bus loads of tourists from Cancun – clad in bikinis and swim shorts – men with no tops – very respectful of the human sacrifices that occurred here. I was hoping to at least feel some “spirit” but no – nothing. It was just too Mayan-Disney for me. I did take a lot of pictures and it was interesting finding out about the buildings and for eg the ball ring which had incredible acoustics. Apparently the person who won the game got sacrificed and their head was mounted on a pole (a great honour). I can’t see it myself, maybe it would have been more incentive for the losers to be sacrificed! Stalls line every bit of shade and everything from hankies to carved masks are “one dollar, one dollar – nearly free – good rpice just for today”. We came across a young boy (about 13) carving a wooden skeleton which we had to buy – he is sitting on the chest of drawers watching me as I write this. We put a knotted hanky on his head and have named him Chico.

We finished the day off with a sorbet at night in the grand square. I had banana which looked like a brain according to Josh but even he could not put me off eating it. As soon as you sit down you get approached by everyone from small children to old cowboys selling their wares,
cheese, bracelets, belts, shirts, coins – you name it you don’t have to go far to shop here! They are very good though, as soon as you say no they will not bother you again.

Main Square – Merida

Originally uploaded by roupiesontour

First impressions? No rain! Merida is like a maze – all the streets are like a grid and the buildings are seldom higher than 1 or 2 storeys but the streets are narrow so it feels enclosed. Buildings are painted in bright colours and there are metal grids over every window and door. The hotel (Mucuy) is very central and has a small pool in the courtyard. We all chilled for a bit and then went out exploring. There is a central square with the first cathedral to be built in America, this is surrounded by small shops and restaurants and there also small parks nearby. We have been accosted by many people trying to sell trips – I tried speaking French to get rid of them but they also spoke the language so will have to try something else tomorrow! Every 4th car is an old VW Beetle – Mexico is obviously the place they come to retire.

Every night in Merida there is something happening. Tonight we came across another square with a live band playing old mambo and salsa type tunes. People were dancing – from old couples to young mother’s with babies in their arms. It was just how I imagined Mexico to be. Some old guy was giving me the eye and if my back had been normal I would have been tempted to have a go – just to embarrass the kids! This is exactly how I imagined Mexico to be and the vibe of the city is great. I have a small padlock on my bag but feel safe when we go out – even in the dark.

San Jose Airport – Costa Rica

Originally uploaded by roupiesontour

On the day we are to leave and there are clear blue skies. It’s amazing how much a town changes with a few rays of light – it looks like a completely different town. The sea is clam and looks turquoise – I wish we had been able to snorkel. My back is painful but as long as Josh can carry my bag we should be OK. We left the hotel to walk into town for something to eat and stopped by the book exchange. Managed to pick up Wuthering Heights – one of my favourite books. Interbus picked us up at 2 for the long journey back to San Jose. Time flies by when you look out the window. We saw the small island where Christopher Columbus first landed in it’s full glory – I actually got goose bumps thinking about it and seeing the view that must have made him so excited.

It started raining at dusk and soon the driver was careering along in the dark, through sheets of rain and lightning and driving through clouds. Gloria Ganor was singing “I Will Survive” on the radio and the American in the front seat just kept his eyes shut and fingers crossed. Once again I am so glad I did not hire a car here, I have no idea how I would have coped in such bad weather.

November 13^th – Farewell Costa Rica 

One thing we have learned about ourselves – we do not fly very well early in the morning. The flight was at 7am. The hostel gives you a free shuttle to the airport, the lovely girl on reception drove us in her dressing gown! She said it was her favourite time of day (5am) as there is no traffic and you get to see the sun rise and this morning – no rain! I am not sad to leave this beautiful country. Yes the rain did not help but it so expensive here – more than America. The country should be renamed to Costa Whole Lotta More Than You Thought. Yes I know some of it goes towards helping the rainforest but a lot is just private enterprise making a quick buck out of the touristas, in a couple of years this place will just be a sad row of big hotel chains and Mcforest burgers charging a fortune. If you plan to see Costa Rica at its best go in the middle of the dry season and soon. 

Point to remember – never take malaria tablets without food. We stupidly did – O and I nearly threw up and I also had to crouch on the floor at the check in desk as I nearly fainted – whoops. Will not be doing that again. 

My back has held up so far – stiff and I can’t bend down or pick anything up but I don’t think there is any serious damage done. We arrived in Mexico city – took one look at the smog that enfolds the city and decided to carry on straight away to Merida. We got on an early afternoon flight with Aero California. The flight was half empty and the plane was straight from the 70’s but we made it in one piece. 

Beach At Puerto Viejo

Originally uploaded by roupiesontour

We have spent the past couple of days chilling, running out whenever the rain stops a little bit and chatting with the other guests. I have found a book exchange which also had a cat – much to O’s delight so am happy. The rain is annoying for us but I can’t help wonder what effect it has had on other regions. If it rained this much in England, the country would have shut down long ago.

This morning was an eye-opener – it has stopped raining! At last! I bent down to pick something up this morning and felt something go in my back. This has never happened to me before and in one split second I understood how everyone with a bad back feels. OMG – ow – and on the day the rain stopped. I can walk (slowly) and move my arms and legs (but not together) so am praying it is not serious. I guess the 6 hour trip back to San Jose tomorrow will decide but I am not ready to come home just yet.

We went for a slow walk on the beach and looked at the coral and all the shells around. Spotted some cool crabs, black ones, red ones and huge silvery ones. The ants have all come out as it has stopped raining and we also saw a massive termite cocoon thing up a tree. You could just spend all day watching the wildlife it is so diverse. Thought I better not push it so came back and have tried to rest the back. Pray it sorts itself out soon……………

Road Sign – Puerto Viejo

Originally uploaded by roupiesontour

November 9th – Puerto Viejo.

The rain has not stopped. It makes you feel claustrophobic as although you try and make the best of it, sometimes you cannot face getting drenched to the skin. We have come south in the vain hope of finding some sunshine.

A 7 hour minibus trip down showed a different side to the country. Houses under 3 or 4 feet of water, kids still playing football on a drenched footpall pitch, a man up to his waist in water carrying his bicycle on his shoulder, just some of the sights we saw on the way down. We shared the bus with an English couple who had come over for 2 weeks to get some sun. Boy were they annoyed! The weather is not at all normal for this time of year and apparently global warming is to blame. Some parts of the region have been put on red alert and I cannot help wondering what we have let ourselves in for. At one point the road was so flooded I didn’t think we would make it across, but we all crossed our fingers and as the water went higher than the wheels we crossed our legs too and just about made it across.

Puerto Viejo is on the Caribbean side and has been greatly influenced by the culture. What you have left is a surfing town that is so laid back it is almost horizontal. There seem to be quite a few Americans who came here in the 60’s/70’s and have just stayed. Bikes can be seen everywhere, surfboards being carried on them in the rain and a pig wanders down the high street eating. The Costa Rican people here are beautiful, a mix of Caribbean and Tico and European/American as I have seen many green eyes.

We have rented an apartment in the Hotel Agapi – right on the beach. I can hear the waves from my window and the forest is just the other side so the wildlife is also here. If it would just stop raining we might be able to go out and enjoy it! It’s very rugged here – think Treasure Island. The hotel is run by a Greek/Tica couple who have made us feel so welcome, it’s like a home away from home.