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November 7^th – Arenal 

This was due to be one of the highlights of the trip and one I had been looking forward to ever since Vesuvius when I was about 15. Let me explain, we went on a coach trip round Europe with my Mum & Dad and one of the stops was Pompeii. We walked all the way to the top of the extinct volcano and for some stupid reason I expected to look over the rim and see swirling red lava – it was a huge dust bowl. I was so disappointed that ever since I have longed to see red hot magma for real. Arenal, a still very active volcano is said ti have stunning views of the lava – especially at night. We had booked the closest you can get – The Arenal Observatory Lodge. The most expensive night so far on our trip. 

The taxi took half an hour to get there and I was so excited by the time we got there. Yes it was still pouring down with rain and yes it looked a bit cloudy still but I was optimistic. Silly me. The route to our room across a hanging bridge and up loads of steps was quite exciting, tiring, but exciting. Our room was pretty basic – the clouds were so low we did not get to see the volcano at all. We all got excited when we heard a low rumbling, which got louder and louder………….and then someone passed by the door, pulling a suitcase on wheels. At least we still laughed. 

It got dark – very very dark but still no lava – not even a spark. The highlight was a power cut where I actually got to wear my head torch. The rain pounded the roof all night and was still going strong in the morning. We did see a sloth in the tree by our room and there were loads of amazing colourful birds but no lava. We shared a taxi back to La Fortuna with 2 other groups who were also disappointed but I guess it’s just Mother Nature having a lugh at the tourist’s expense. 

The rainfall during the night was unbelievable – it was so heavy. The clouds are low this morning but dry so far………….We wanted to try the hot springs today and there are so many choices. Tabacon was our forst choice but at $45 each maybe not! We chose Baldi instead at less than half the price. There are 25 pools which range in temperature from 32 to 72 degrees – lots of lush plants and waterfalls. It was also not at all busy so the kids had fun on the waterslides and trying out the giant jacuzzi and other pools. It’s like having a huge bath and getting a massage when you stand under the waterfalls. The only downside was the trashy 90’s European Pop music that was blasting from the speakers.

Of course after a while it started to rain which meant that the steam rising off the water made the whole scene very eerie. We stayed for a while and then decided enough was enough as the rain did not let up and a group of old enthusiastic Americans  had started using the waterslides which unfortunately was good fun for them but not pretty to watch!

It continued to rain all afternoon and evening but we sneaked out when it let up for 5 mins to The Lava Rocks cafe for some fab Costa Rican food. Josh had not taken out his waterproof so we had to share my raincoat on the way back – we were both soaked but laughing.

Fireworks night and we feel so far away from home! We had a quick toast in the evening to all thise who are celebrating with fireworks and bonfires. I tried to explain the festival to the guy on reception as he was interested but I don’t think he quite got the fact that we celebrate in essence a failure!

The weather wasn’t too bad this morning so we wandered into La Fortuna and impulsively booked a tour down the river in the afternoon. The raft and guide came to pick us up at the hotel. When I say raft it was more like a dinghy but carpe diem as they say. The nus took us past plantations of papaya, pineapple, bananas and plantains, cassava and rice fields. The Penas Blancas River was our destination and we had great fun floating down river with our paddles for a couple of hours. It rained for a bit but we still saw a sloth, toucans, a snake, iguanas, howler monkeys, huge Kingfishers and all other sorts of birds. It was brilliant fun and our guide Riberto who was only 26 had such knowledge about the plants and wildlife it was like a biology lesson. The best part? Josh’s face when Roberto said 2 days ago he had seen a crocodile bigger than the boat just by the edge of the river. When we went over the little rapids Josh was eager to make sure he did not fall out!

The tour finished with food and drink at a local house. Mini tortillas with beef and fried plaintains which were delicious. There was a little girl there with her new puppy who was very interested in our pale faces. I had a good conversation with the Mum (via our guide) about washing as I really wanted to know how everything gets dry with so much rain. It was a great afternoon and the kids couldn’t stop talking about it until well into the evening.

The day finished with the sound of the volcano booming in the distance – our own version of fireworks night – Tica style.

Ok I am catching up so this will be brief………

The hostel is great but that smell feels like it has seeped into our clothes and we all dread going back to the room so we have decided to move on after a couple of days. The rain is also not helping as it really pours down and pretty much stops you from doing anything.

Activities have included……..

The Frog Pond – an indoor exhibit in the dark. Dusk is the best time to visit. You enter a drak room, armed with atorch and have to look for the frogs in each case. It was fun and there were so many frogs to see – very cool. Of course the issue of who should control the torch came up more than once and I fell over once which the kids found very funny!

Monte Verde Reserve – a 5am alarm call for this one. The best time to see everything is first thing in the morning so we had to drag ourselves up. It was worth it though. From the bus journey up (you guessed it in an old school bus and bumpy road) to actually being in the rainforest – amazing. It is like the wettest forest you have ever been in but the sounds and sights are so different. We went with a guide, Melvin and glad we did as would have missed so much otherwise. He showed us tarantulas, flowers, lizards, the elusive Quetzal (a beautiful bird), hummingbirds………We heard monkeys quite close but unfortunately did not see them.

Selvatura – A walk through the rainforest which included 8 hanging suspension bridges. Some went through the forest, some over the top. Incredible sights and sounds. Monte verde is a cloud forest region so you actally walk through the clouds too which all adds to the experience.

We got the transport today over to La Fortuna. When I say transport this is Costa Rican style. A minibus, boat ride and another mini bus. The scenry was very green, passing coffee plantations, grazing cattle and tiny houses. Time has taken on a different lilt here and the 3 hours passed so quickly. We have blown the budget and gone with a small hotel – with no smell and wi-fi so I get to spend the evening updating everything!

November 1st – raining again today. We had a long wait as the bus did not leave till 2.30. Josh slept all morning so he must have been tired. O and I ventured out to the supermarket to get supplies and were surpised by the friendliness of everyone who would stop us to chat (so I just flung my hands around a lot).

We had to ask twice how to get to the bus stop which was supposed to be 2 streets away. It was raining, the bags were heavy but we made it. The bus journey was quite an adventure. Half of it was in the dark, there were families of pickpockets who boarded the bus when we stopped and the n the journey itself. Imagine the bumpiest dirt trail you can, full of huge potholes, stones, roaming cows and winding up through the mountains. It was quite a ride, we crossed raging rivers on tiny bridges, dodged roaming cows and all in the dark and rain. Once the driver suddenly stopped, reversed and then floored it over something. Josh reckons it was a fallen tree. The bus driver deserved a medal and it was good to get to Santa Elena after 6 hours.

The hostel was recommended in Lonely Planet (which everyone seems to walk round with) and the owners are super friendly but my god the smell from our bathroom was horrible. I hope I can get over it, it’s not that I yearn for anything perfect but this feels like a discomfort too far…………..

We’ve made it! We have arrived in San Jose in one piece with all our luggage. The flight was long and full of American tourists. Put it this way, a lady of certain years was a couple of rows in front of us and I found it so hard not to stare – her ears were halfway down her cheeks she had so many facelifts. Her lips were huge and eyes looked scarily detached. Hallowe’en mask indeed!

I had my bag close to me at all times but the airport was busy and chaotic. A guy behind us just made me very aware – I am sure he was scouting out the tourists but maybe I am just suspicious. Hostel in only 5 mins away and all houses here seem to have bars on the windows which does nothing to help the image.

 

Mokapu BeachOriginally uploaded by roupiesontour

We decided to go snorkelling again and drove all along the West coast looking for a good spot. A German couple at the hostel had recommended a small beach at Makena, they had seen turtles, manta rays and a moray eel. We found the beach but the surf was really strong so went back to the beach from the other day. It had seemed that all the fish had disappeared! The current was very strong but Josh managed to see a turtle (again O missed out!)

Found out today that a shark bit someone’s leg at just the next beach…….only 25ft out – kind of makes it more exciting!

I am so sad to be leaving Hawaii and all it’s beauty. It has exceeded my very high expectations and I have certainly fallen in love with Maui in a way I never expected to. The people who live on the island all love it and although this is not a surprise it adds to the feeling that you are drawn to it. I left a little piece of my heart here – I won’t be whole again until I come back to get it………..

 

IMG_6262

Originally uploaded by roupiesontour

Woke up with a bit of trepidation. I am starting to worry about the S America leg of the trip as it will really be our first taste of travelling off the beaten track. I need to be happy with the fact that planning everything is not always a good thing and adventures usually happen when the unexpected occur – just look at where we are now. I just hate the thought of travelling anywhere without a plan B. I was also worried about making a complete idiot of myself surfing as today was our lesson. I’ve always fancied giving it a go though.

The surf school – Goofy Foot was in the picturesque town of Lahania. The sun was shining and apparently the surf was high today so a good day to learn. We got there early and the staff could not have been more friendly. We were in a group of 5, us and a young Canadian couple from Toronto. Our instructor Nate soon made us feel at ease even with everyone on the beach looking at us practicing the getting up position on the sand. For those of you who have done Body Balance/Yoga – imagine the Warrior 2 pose I think it is and that’s basically it. I was knackered before we even started in the water. There is an area in the water set aside for learning so you take it in turns to have your practice with the instructor on a wave and then go back to a “safe place” to wait your turn again. O was first and I must say she is a natural – she stood up and rode right into the beach on her first go. We were all cheering her on. Josh stood up too so it was down to me to keep the family honour going. Let’s just say it took me till the 3rd wave to really get it and wow – I actually surfed today – amazing. O actually scratched her knee on the reef so had blood pouring out of both knees. She was fussed over and everyone was saying she had some surfing scars to brag about now. It was just a scratch……………..

As we were all on a high after our lesson we came back to the hostel for lunch and then drove to the top of the Halekala crater. A 10,000 ft summit. You drive through the clouds to get to it – very spooky but the views were stunning. We passed cyclists looking murderous going up, beats me why you would come on holiday to punish yourself so much but each to their own. We had fun coming down in the car trying not to use the accelerator at all – just the brake. We had no-one behind us so when the car slowed down to a near stop on the small inclines we all swayed to try and push it forward. Only had to use the gas once so not bad.

Started to pack tonight and then we have realised that we are not leaving tomorrow as I thought we have another day here – yeah! We are going to try snorkelling at a bay recommend by a German couple staying here. They saw turtles, manta rays and a moray eel so sounds like fun.

Volcanic Beach Road To Hana

Originally uploaded by roupiesontour

The road to Hana is always listed as a must see by everyone who has visited the island. A long windy road over the East to South of the island with lots of sights and trails that can take anything from 4 hours up to explore. We got on the road early. The road winds round and round and up and down in some places. There is flora and fauna galore to see and in some places the scenery reminded me of Jurassic Park. The coastline was stunning and we stopped off at a black sand beach which was littered with tiny jellyfish and explored the secret caves. The volcanic sand was all crunchy under your feet – very strange.

I am still amazed at people who seem to turn up, take a photo to prove they were there and then immediately depart again. Whatever happened to taking in the atmosphere and keeping a memory inside? It can cheer you up ona rainy day when you least expect it. Bragging rights aside, sometimes cameras are our own worst enemy.

Pit stop in the afternoon was Twin Falls. Another Hawaiian “short” trek to a spectacular fall in the woods. By the time we got there we were covered in mud, had used ropes to get down to the falls and were so glad to see water. A huge rope under the falls allows you to go and swing in the water and falls to your heart’s content. Ophelie was the only one brave enough to try it (with the help of some mad Americans) and wiped out spectacularly.

Back at the hostel in the evening a new couple arrived. They had been to the Big Island and taken a helicopter ride over the volcano. Quite a treat as he was a geologist. We were so jealous but funds will not quite stretch that far!

Hi – It has been a while as I can´t geta connection to upload my doary pages and photos but will do so soon A quick recap…….

Maui was fantastic – we also went surfing up the extinct Haleakala, Road to Hana, snorkelling with turtles – wow!

We are in Costa Rica at the moment in MonteVerde and it is very wet……..highlights so far have included the bus journey here in the dark on the bumpiest road you can imagine – across raging rivers and over potholes the size of windows. Went into the rainforest today and have seen all manner of bugs and birds.

Will catch up soon!