3 Go Global

An early start and before we knew it we were flying over the desert in a tiny Cessna plane looking at the Nazca lines. The plane was tiny – just big enough to fit us 3 and the pilot. I was nervous for Josh but he seemed to be coping well so I sat back and enjoyed the view. As well as the lines the view of the mountains was amazing. They look like mounds of cocoa powder – very soft but with grooves and lumps all over them where the “powder” has fallen down. The colour is a bit more like Horlicks though. The Nazca lines are so strange, the lines cross over each other in seemingly random patterns all over the desert. The shapes are incredible, it’s amazing how such big likenesses were made from the ground. Some of the lines are also dead straight – no idea how they were done.

The plane ride was thrilling and I loved banking round to get a closer look, but I think Josh was glad to get his feet on solid ground! We had lunch at the fabulous Grumpy’s afterwards. It’s just a shack on the main street with tables in it. Anyone who goes near Nazca has to pay a visit. They have notebooks that guests have written in with tips and where they are going etc. We left a full page with drawings so go and read our entry! Carlos and his family are so friendly and their daughter very cute, food had huge portions and was really nice. We liked it so much we went back to eat in the evening.

A full day today as the afternoon saw us buckle up in a dune buggy for a trip out to the desert and some sand boarding. What can I say – wow! The buggy took us an old Incan site that is currently being excavated and the ancient viaducts. We passed a graveyard in the desert, people who lived in the bush with their donkeys and shacks, human skulls on top of piles of stones and then the best bit – the desert. The desert is such a beautiful place, the dunes were like satin – they look so smooth and when pictured against the blue sky we felt like we were on some film set. The buggy ride felt like Mad Max but the kids had no idea what I was talking about. We went up and down the dunes – it was like a rollercoaster.

The sandboarding was fun – we got off the buggy at the top of a dune and just went down. The boards are like snowboards so you can sit, lie or try and stand up on them while you go down. I tried sitting and standing (standing without much success) but the best fun was had going to the top of a very steep dune and lying down on the board going as fast as you can. Brilliant fun – Josh loved the speed too but we could not persuade O to lie come down the steep ones. It might have been something to do with the walk back up – have you ever tried walking up when all you seem to do is slip back down – very frustrating!

How Cute

Originally uploaded by roupiesontour

A boat trip today to the poor man’s Galapagos Islands – Ballestas Islands. The boat was full of orange vested Japanese and Europeans and set off in search of wildlife. Within a couple of minutes we had seen dolphins and sea lions surrounding the local fishing boats and their first catches. The islands themselves are more like a series of rocks, you take the boat round them. We saw comorants and their babies, pelicans with mouths full of fish, penguins, boobies, starfish stuck to the rocks, masses of sealions and mounds of bird poo 50 meters high. I can only let you imagine the stench but the view made it so worthwhile. The sea lions were curious and would keeps swimming out to the boat and popping their heads up – you wondered who was watching who. It really felt like we had stepped into a Planet Earth DVD, absolutely brilliant.

More luxury coach travel in the afternoon to Nazca. We passed a truck that had partly gone over the edge of the high road (still the scenery was in the desert) that looked quite scary. I don’t think anyone was hurt but a lot of men were standing around scratching heads. Saw more “box” towns and fields of ragged looking crops being harvested by locals with huge pots on their backs, attached to their heads by a huge headband. The wineries we passed looked inviting, I will have to check out the wine when we get back.

Nazca is bigger than Paracas and as soon as you get off the bus you are jumped on by touts and travel agents. How nice it is to have someone waiting for us to take us straight to our hotel for the night! We had a quick rest and then out to The Nazca Lines Hotel and planetarium for a talk on the famous Nazca lines. For all of those who don’t know they are mysterious shapes and lines in the desert that have been there for centuries. You can only make out the shapes from the air which is why they weren’t discovered until the 1930’s. The talk also included a session in the dark making out the constellations – strange thing they are all upside down here!

Sunset At Paracas

Originally uploaded by roupiesontour

The first leg of the tour and a taste of the Peru bus service. Wow! Double decker coaches with business class reclining seats, food and films – the kids were besides themselves. National Express could learn a thing or two from them. Bags are all searched before “boarding” and a security guard goes up and down the aisles taping you in your seat before you set off. I didn’t know whether to pretend I hadn’t noticed him and continue playing with the reclining button or demand “make-up” before my next shot.
The trip was about 4 hours but I always enjoy looking at the scenery. Again a country has surprised me. The landscape is sand and plenty of it – I always imagined Peru to be deep and dark, not full of sand and cacti – that was supposed to be Mexico. The Pan American highway hugs the coast so also saw some surfers and many a shanty town. The houses were nothing more than reed panels tied around wooden poles with plastic sheeting for a roof. “Daily Grind” takes on a whole new meaning when you see the way that some people have to live and how they can get by on so little. My thoughts turn to Christmas and not having had the usual 4 month commercial run up, how unaffected we have so far been about present lists and who is buying what for who. It is so nice to be away from all that – just for 1 year.

Paracas is a small town on the coast that was affected by the recent earthquake. We went for a walk on the beach at sunset and saw the evidence on the pavement and in many buildings. There is a lot of building work already going on, people have just picked up and carried on. Our room was on the roof terrace of the hotel (and yes I did wonder about another tremor in bed) and the noise of cockerels, birds and dogs was like something out of 101 Dalmations. The dogs really sounded like they were relaying messages to each other all night.

Park Of Love – Miraflores

Originally uploaded by roupiesontour

We were given a car and a driver yesterday for the afternoon. After what I thought would be a quick stop to change some flights (ended up being nearly 3 hours) we went out exploring. Miraflores is an upmarket district of Peru with houses that look like Swiss Alps chateaus and some swanky penthouses on the cliffs. You can go paragliding off the cliffs and wave to the people having a coffee in the nearby shopping centre as you go past. I tried to persuade O to have a go but she wasn’t having any of it! We had to wind up the windows of the car at each traffic light we stopped at. There are so many people selling all sorts of different things it can be a little intimidating but people are only trying to make a living.

We have taken the easy option and have arranged a tour. Well it’s more like having an itinerary, hotels/hostals/travel all sorted so I don’t actually have to think for a few weeks. One of the benefits is that we get to leave a bag of stuff at the hotel! We all still only have 1 bag each and in total are under 50kg but the prospect of travelling really light is magical! In the evening I met some travellers who have just come back from a tour around Peru so got lots of tips and ideas of what to do. The conversations you can have with people on the road are strange, within a couple of hours you can know a person’s life story and their dreams and know that you will never meet them again. I have had some very deep conversations about weird and wonderful things with people I hardly know in the conventional sense but it’s also been so refreshing.

Building Plaza De Armas

Originally uploaded by roupiesontour

God I really have learned to hate early morning flights. We were up at 3.30 to catch our flight to Lima and were exhausted for the rest of the day. The hotel had arranged for a collection from the airport so before we knew it we were ensconced in a new hotel, new city, new country. How strange it feels to have a new currency and new culture to deal with, we had only just got used to Mexico and then it’s on again.

First impressions of Peru? It is the second largest desert city in the world but the buildings do not seem to go over 1 or 2 storeys. There are minibuses full of people travelling everywhere and the number plates are different colours. The people are a mix, pale skins, blue eyes short and tall. Both O and I were also surprised by the fashions – the most in tune to UK fashion that any country has been. Kids stare a lot at Josh and O but it is mainly curiosity, they have stopped people mid conversation! It is also cooler than Mexico – just long sleeves cooler but I think the constant drastic changes in temperature are giving me a cold – hope I’m wrong.

After a short rest at the hotel we ventured out to explore. There is the main square about 5 mins walk away. We arrived to what looked like the changing of the guard at the palace. Everyone had to stand on the other side of the street – far back. The courtyard was guarded by men with guns and a couple of tanks for good measure. The changing of the guard was accompanied by a brass band and the choreographer had obviously taken a leaf out of the Ministry Of Silly Walks as there was a lot of fancy pirouettes and gun swirling. I don’t think we were supposed to find it that funny.

Couples and families were all out for a Sunday evening walk. There are no pushchairs – babies get carried around under a blanket in the arms of their parents. Kids were playing with the pigeons and everyone was eating ice cream – we could have been in Trafalgar square.

Uxmal

Originally uploaded by roupiesontour

November 30th – Light And Sound

We spent most of yesterday travelling back to Merida, via Tulum and Vallodolid. We have 2 nights back with he lovely Ofelia at Hotel Mucuy. Despite’s O’s moans that she was bored with ruins (we have hardly seen any) I booke da trip to the evening sound and light show at Uxmal (o-sh-maal). An hour’s ride deep into the jungle and we arrived at 3. Completely different from Chichen Itza it was deserted so you could really get the feel of the place. The site is more Mayan in history and the architecture different from the other site. The carvings of animals and figures were incredible and walking around in the heat I got lost again in my own little historic world imagining what it was like centuries ago.

The group took a short break for dinner and then back again at night for the show. We had weird headphone things that translated into English. The show is basically sit down and various buildings light up in different colours while a story is told. I know it was bad but at one point I was nearly laughing when the voices were praying to the god Chac Mool for rain. Phrases like “we will do our most fervent singing and dancing if you grace us with wet lands” etc etc you get the picture. It was just a bit over acted but then on the way back I got thinking – dangerous I know…………

It seems strange to us that only by praying to a God would bring the rain, we supposedly in this day and age know better. What things in 2000 years will people think we did that was silly? I imagined with the kids someone doing a tour of Man U and saying “Yes they actually used to play with their feet and the players were like Gods. Here we have what was known as a Director’s Box, where the rich were served “hot dogs” – a canine delicacy in those days”. It amused us during the ride anyway.

Buildings also made me thinktoo – the journey back was a long one. Temples and places of worship have always been the most splendid relics and we visit them the world over. Again what do we put most effort and money into building these days that will be the visited places of the future – Trump Towers, the gherkin in London? Wouldn’t it be nice to have something other than an Olympic stadium.

Father Christmas – Mexico Style

Originally uploaded by roupiesontour

Memories of Playa.

This post is really more for me while it is fresh in my mind. Walking along the pedestrianised streets at night, window shopping and enjoying the feint sea breeze after the heat of the day.

Being called, cajouled, coaxed into any of the small shops by an array of vendors. They would use anything from “Lady, Lady, come see, almost free” to whistling like you would use to a dog to try and get your attention – this ploy never worked whereas at least everything else would get a curteous “non gracias” from us.

Josh trying to make his excuses to leave at the earliest opportunity and O in her shorts and Converse boots (I am so out of date as it looks strange to me).

Taxis and buses tooting to see if you need a ride and the traffic police with their whistles in Merida, never understood quite why as there were traffic lights that seemed to work ok.

The awful Carlos n Charlies restaurant with lame jokes, eg a covered platter put on the table with a fake haggis underneath, rubber cockroaches, huge hand pointing signs saying drunk tourist or celebrating divorce that were put over you, the conga – the list just goes on and on – the kids thought it was wild but I just died.

The Oxxo supermarkets with their little tables and chairs and Arizona green tea in a can.

Hair braid, hair braid, hammock, rug !!

The taxi drivers listening to the 80’s music and singling along at full blast using all the wrong words – words, come e cee to him – fab!

And my favourite – the skeletons – especially the Elvis one.

Puerto Morelos Reef

Originally uploaded by roupiesontour

November 28th – Puerto Morelos

The reef that runs along this coast is the second largest in the world – guess where the biggest is – yep Oz. At PM it is very shallow so we decided to risk and take a trip up for the day. A coach ride later deposited us on the road in the middle of nowhere, boiling hot not knowing where we were – good start! Luckily there was a taxi round the corner and we were off. The reef is a national park and lies off the beach but not really in swimming distance. There are lots of small boats who will take you out so we started the stroll along to try and find the cheapest. 5 mins later a “capitan” was coming along in the other direction with one female passenger so after a bit of negotiation on price we were off. We were also joined last minute in the boat by a biker who jumped on last minute – fully clothed. When he started to change on the boat O and I did not know where to look!

I gracefully entered the water this time and once under – wow! You get a guide to take you around and ensure that you don’t touch the reef but it’s like another world. There was grass growing in the sand and all sorts of coral swaying in the water. We saw shoals of fish, stripey ones, multi coloured, bright ones, barracudas just so many. The camera took a few pics but I ran out of film when the barracudas showed up – typical! As the water was shallow in places it really felt like you got to see what the divers normally did – fantastic.

The tour lasted 2 hours by which time we were all pretty exhausted as the currents were quite strong. Time on land to look round the small town and visit the main attraction – a huge bookshop run by 2 Canadians. We stocked up on some holiday reads and made our back to Playa Del Carmen. The kids had a great day and I can’t quite describe what it was like to snorkel with them, watching everything. I suppose it’s like Christmas when you watch the kids open their presents – seeing their excitement makes it all the more special for you.

Enjoying A Cocktail On The Beach

Originally uploaded by roupiesontour

November 26th – Playa Del Carmen

Bored with the concrete of Cancun we took the coach down the coast to Playa Del Carmen for a few days. Immediately the atmosphere is more relaxed and the sea is calmer. The hotel is 2 mins from the town and beach and the lovely Jose on reception was really friendly. We dumped our bags and straight off to the beach to explore. There are lots of small restaurants and the water is still turquoise.

Lunch was calling so we treated ourselves to some cocktails (kids with no alcohol – despite many pleas) and watched the world go by. No real plans for the rest of the day, just had fun exploring the town.

Isla Mujeres – Bridge To Avalon

Originally uploaded by roupiesontour

November 23rd – 25th

This is our relaxing bit of the journey so we spent several days by the pool, shopping and organising the next part of our voyage. On the Sunday we took a boat trip out to Isla Mujeres, a small island about 8 miles out from Cancun. The ferry ride is only 20 mins or so but we all managed to catch the sun in this short space of time, even with the cream on. After all this sun and I am still not brown. I curse these freckles and pale English fluorescent glow every time I see anyone bronzed – yes you know the type who just has to look at the sun and they change colour. I still look like I have arrived straight off the plane.

Isla Mujeres has a chilled vibe about it so I immediately knew I was going to like it. You can hire golf buggies to get you around the island and the buildings are all painted in pastel shades. We are lucky in that our hotel in Cancun has a resort on the island which could use free all day so it was straight there to check it out. A wooden bridge separates the hotel from the island – to bring in yet another film analogy it reminded me of the island where Jaws was filmed – fishing village.

We had hoped to snorkel at the hotel but although the sea was very nice there was not much wildlife about so I arranged a snorkelling tour for the afternoon. The tiny boat was shared with us, another couple and a group of Americans who were doing their first scuba dive (they had been practising in the pool all morning). The boat took us out to the reef (a very fun,bumpy ride) and it was snorkellers out the boat first – fall backwards fashion. I half managed this and sort of half fell, half belly flopped into the water which was really not elegant but a huge source of amusement to the kids. We had life vests on so did not have to worry about treading water. We snorkelled following the divers underneath us which was good fun as you played with all the bubbles coming up. I was very jealous of the divers who all made it look so easy and plan to that (one day…………….). The water had quite big swells so it was also a new experience doing the caterpillar with your body – as your head was underwater you didn’t notice the waves , only when your body moved. I kept a very close eye on the kids as I could imagine sticking my head up and everyone gone………..Fish were bountiful but not as many species as Hawaii and still no turtle for O. Great time was had by all with the exception of 1 American who gave up after 10 mins due to a hangover – he didn’t talk to anyone at all after that.

Other highlights – we ate at The Hard Rock Café as promised for O’s birthday and the treat of dessert too. The food to me is nothing special but I do like to have a good look round and the terrace is right on the beach so you can’t beat the view. It’s ridiculous, I think back and already the days just pass in a blur. I hope the memories of this trip last a bit longer.