BootsnAll Travel Network



What's It All About??

I guess 2007 is my mid life crisis........making the decision to leave a good job, friends and family to show the world to the kids some might say is a bit mad but it just feels so right. They say you only regret the things you haven't done, not the things you have - I want to have something to talk about when I am old and grey! 9 months, 14 countries and 2 teenagers, how intact will my sanity be on my return??

January 5th – Puppets On A String

January 17th, 2008


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Originally uploaded by roupiesontour

Lake Taupo lies in the middle of the north island and the scenery around it is beautiful, hills, greenery and of course a massive lake. Taupo is the centre of sky diving and I must admit I was itching to try it but Josh had a heart attack at the mention of me jumping out of a plane. Maybe I can sneak out at night…………………..

Tent up at the holiday park in record time and off to explore the town. The first stop was watching the bungy jumpers just down the road. The wooden platform juts out over the cliff with a wicked view of the river below. There was actually a queue waiting to fling themselves off and we had fun talking to the families who were watching their loved ones take the plunge. I don’t know who was worse – the spectators or the jumpers! Most dipped their heads in the water below and all the women instinctively reached up to grab their tee shirts as soon as they jumped off (you can imagine being upside down your clothing reveals more than you might want). O reckons it’s not for her, she would prefer to jump out of a plane.

A bit less adrenaline filled was the walk to Huka falls. A very narrow gap in the river means the water that falls is fast and fun to watch. After we got there O said is that it – the drop is only 10 metres – I think she was expecting Niagara Falls. I suppose when you have seen the big ones it’s hard to get excited. I loved listening and watching the water and could have stayed there all afternoon but the kids were hungry so it was back to the supermarket to get something to throw on the Barbie. I love this country! The holiday park also has a “jumping pillow” which sounded intriguing enough to check out – it’s a huge air filled pocket (about 50m) that’s like a trampoline. Something to tire out the kids before bed – fantastic.

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January 3rd – Stinky City

January 17th, 2008


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Originally uploaded by roupiesontour

Onto Rotorua today – I am sad to be packing up the tent and leaving our idyllic scenery. Yes I say I as the kids have no problem helping me to put it up (they like banging things with the hammer) but when it comes to putting it down – they disappear…………..same thing happens with washing up.

I have been warned about the smell of the town – it’s the sulphur – but was pleasantly surprised. There was a faint whiff but nothing as bad as I expected. We found a site just out of town and wow – it is right by the side of a huge lake (and no smell at all). People here on holiday seem to have boats which looks fun, there’s even a slide in the lake and one of those platforms you swim up to! The lake is surrounded by pine trees (I think) and ferns and it really is stunning. I can’t wait to go for a walk tonight.

Steak on the Barbie for tea – well it is hard work driving and putting up the tent! The kids have run off to explore the facilities which seem to include ping pong and a pool table. There are loads of kids here so I am sure they will be able to keep themselves amused.

January 4th – Moari Culture

Te Puia – home of the famous Pohutu geyser and bubbling mud pools and at last we had the stink to get used to. Bad eggs is an understatement – wow! The centre was a good walk around and we had fun watching the strange bubbling mud pools and geyser explode. The main event was watching the culture show with a traditional Moari welcome. A Texan named Joe volunteered from the crowd to be our chief, well I say volunteered – no-one else got a chance. It was almost satisfying later to see him slightly intimidated by the Haka. The traditional war dance – seen more often on the rugby playing fields was really amazing up close and all the tongue sticking out and protruding eyes made you want to look away. Josh was well into it and reckons he knows the opening bit so he’s going to keep practising to scare his sister.

From Moari culture to NZ latter day culture. O has been bugging me about this since we landed in the country so we made a trip out to the zorbing centre. For those of you who are unsure, a zorb is a huge inflated golf ball (see through) with another smaller ball attached inside. You sit inside the inner ball and roll down a hill – aka zorbing. It was invented in this country and seemed only fitting to test it here. The kids opted for zorbit – both in the orb with water added for an extra splash. The ball went so fast down the hill it went up again the other side. They had a blast and are still talking about it tonight. Me – I chickened out. I must be getting old as I really did not fancy getting wet and preferred to watch. Apparently my pension is in the post.

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January 2nd – Gloworms

January 17th, 2008


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Originally uploaded by roupiesontour

Ventured into town to do some food shopping and to see the national bird at the Kiwi House. It was bigger than expected but good to see. The site also had loads of ducks, birds and lizards. Funny how feeding the ducks is still fun – even when the kids are teenagers, they fed out of O’s hand and there were little chicks to coo over too. Thanks to Lonely Planet on the way back we discovered we were just in time for the show at The Shearing Shed – just up the road from the campsite. Only – it’s not sheep – it was Angora rabbits that get the haircut. This poor fluffy white rabbit was put on something which resembled a toture rack and was shaved with the old sheep shearing gear. It’s not painful to the rabbit, just really humiliating in front of a crowd! The amount of wool (fur?) that came off was amazing, they need a shave every 3 months. Needless to say we could not be tempted by the range of Possum and Angora goodies in the shop afterwards.

The gloworm cave here is world famous and it’s reputation is well deserved. We took a late afternoon tour (after all the tour groups have gone) and walked through limestone caves with stalactites and stalagmites and were taken by boat through the largest section of the gloworm colony. No photos are allowed so I will try and describe it although no words could ever really give it it’s due. The gloworms are like little tiny bulbs on the ceiling, greeny blue in colour and there were thousands of them all hanging from the roof. As the ceiling had stalactites and was very even it looked like a Christmas grotto with thousands and thousands of tiny lights. I can’t even imagine what the Moari must have thought coming across the cave centuries ago – apparently they were in awe of the cave and rarely ventured in. You can understand why. There have also been concerts in the limestone part of the cave with Barbara Streisand, Sting, Dame Kiri etc due to the acoustics. I was singing “wake me up before you glo-glo” to O but she was not that impressed………………

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New Year’s Day

January 1st, 2008

Well – what can I say……….

We had a great time last night – spent the afternoon in the pool and I made a fire from twigs and wood in the barbecue pit and we cooked sausages, baked pots and garlic bread. It was accompanied by a bottle of NZ’s finest bubbly – great. There was a band playing at the next door pub which we could overhear and fireworks at midnight. Welcome 2008!

 Today the sun was up early and what a brilliant blue sky greeted us this morning. I was up and raring to go – the kids a bit more subdued after finding the huge bugs in the loos. We travelled to Raglan by the sea – a very chilled out town with lots going on and sand that is black and sparkly. We took a bag away to add to our collection. Families were all out having picnics on the beach – it just seems so alien for New Year’s Day.

Hamilton was supposed to be our overnight stop before going on to Waitomo but the only caravan park in town was catually shut for the day – ahhhh! Another small drive on through scenery straight out of Hobbiton and onto Waitomo. I keep trying to think in my head what it is like – yes it reminds me of the UK on the most glorious summer day but it’s more like a cross betweent Switzerland and the UK.

Waitomo is a tiny town and we have come here to see the gloworms in the caves. The campsite once again has fantastic facilities – swimming pool, trampolines, laundry, kitchen with deck…………..I find myself feeling a bit guilty for basking in the sun while the kids play – totally relaxed while everyone back home enjoys the rain and the prospect of returning to work for another year end! We are actually enjoying the camping and the views each morning are so amazing as is all the sounds of the birds, some I recognise some not.

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I’ve Never Been So Far Away From Home…………..

January 1st, 2008

New Zealand – December 28th

 

Well we have already lost a whole day – we took off on Dec 27th at 07.30 and landed 5 hours later on Dec 28th at 12.30 – I suppose the budget can breathe a sigh of relief.

 

First impressions – warmer than I expected with bright blue skies. We had not pre-arranged a car having been advised that good deals could be got at the airport. The majority of rental car firms had no cars left so we ended up with a Hyundai Getz, guess it’s lucky I am used to small cars. The bags just fit in the back so we’ll manage. The tourist centre at the airport was very helpful and I would recommend anyone going through Auckland airport to pay a visit. After we were armed with about 3 tonnes of brochures and maps we set off. The roads are easy to drive, although knowing that car insurance is not compulsory in this country does make you more alert.

 

A spectacular drive through Auckland and over the harbour bridge is a great introduction to the country – the city is spectacular, dominated by the Sky Tower and surrounded by islands, beaches and marinas – it looks so clean. We drove north and had our first shock – the price of accommodation even in hostels is astronomical and everything is booked up. I know we are in the middle of summer but I really was expecting just to be able to at least find something. We drove to Goat’s Island past amazing scenery of pine trees and ferns, empty beaches that seemed to go on forever and roads that go up and down and round and round. Goat’s Island and the next town were full so after a stop at a fab pub in Puhoi to consider our options we ended up in a motel in Warkworth. Another shock, both motels and bed and breakfasts are both upmarket here – some b&b’s charge over $300 a night! The motel was very clean but we have already decided to buy a tent tomorrow to keep the budget down and also have more options as everywhere is full. We finished the day with a trip to the supermarket to admire the Vegemite row.

 

December 29th – 3 Go Camping

 

Lonely Planet recommended a few places near so we did what any self respecting Brit would do and visited Sheepworld. It looked very quiet and the kids were a bit nervous about going into ghostown but after seeing the mammoth slide with inflated tyres they were persuaded. We were treated to a sheep shearing show and as visiting Poms had the mickey taken out of us all morning – “sweet as – eh”. I spent a while talking to the lady on reception – her Devon accent gave her away – she emigrated 3 years ago so it was good to hear what it had been like for her.

 

A small honey café was our next stop – glass fronted hives, honey tasting and the best ice cream ever – yum. We also managed to find a shopping centre and bought a tent and 3 sleeping bags. By the time we leave here it should have easily paid for itself, it remains to be seen how much the cost on my nerves will be! The first excitement about camping is still there as it is new – again adding something different to our trip. We found a Top 10 holiday park outside Auckland, the facilities are excellent and it’s like a little community with camper vans, caravans and tents.

 

It took about an hour to work out how to put up the “easy” tent and finish it. No swearing but it still looked a little wonky and I prayed for no strong winds. It wasn’t as bad as I thought and was very cosy inside but job for tomorrow – sleeping mats.

 

December 30th – Auckland

 

Well here we are again – we decided that we couldn’t miss seeing this beautiful city so we spent  the day exploring. Glorious sunshine again – we seem to be lucky with the weather. The city was not at all busy (even for a Sunday) and not stressful to drive around. We visited the Sky Tower observatory – the tallest building in the southern hemisphere and crawled towards the windows to look down at the amazing views. They have viewing glass on the floor which I actually plucked up the courage to walk across and felt my stomach tighten to the sixe of a pea. To make matters worse you can “jump” from the tower attached to a wire to a red target mark below. 2 kids of about 14/15 did it while we watched. O said she would prefer jumping out of a plane – code for no way in hell would I jump off the tower! Josh just stuck to the back and tried to guess what nationality a huge group of men in Navy uniforms was – we ended up guessing Russian as they also had those weird hats on.

 

An afternoon scenic drive around the city (ok so we did get a little bit lost) but we found our way in time to catch the view from the top of Mount Eden. It is one of about 50 volcanoes in Auckland and the view sweeps across a city whose pastel coloured suburbs seem to go on forever. I have no idea why but I was reminded of being at Bristol downs.

 

2nd night camping and after a game of Frisbee and adjusting the guy ropes on the tent (after looking at other people’s tents Josh worked out what we have done wrong) we got talking to a Swiss girl who has already toured the islands in her little VW camper van. We have worked out that camping is definitely cheaper, with the additional rental fees of the camper you still have to pay to “overnight” it in a holiday park. Still can’t believe that you pay per person for a tent/camper van, not per site and the kids class as adults. I wonder if Oz is cheaper?

 

New Year’s Eve

 

We are one of the first to get the New Year here and although I have never been a big fan (it always feels like a bit of a let down) I am rather excited. I am writing this in the tent surrounded by bugs all over the top of the tent outside and watching the last sun of 2007 gradually set. We will be lighting the barbecue soon and have spent the afternoon at Waingaro Hot Springs which also has a caravan park. There are trees all around, I can hear the birds, sheep and even see a deer from our site. It feels a million miles from home. The pools are hot and there were huge slides for the kids to play on and motorised donut things so I just basked in the sunshine and read my book – bliss.

 

We have decided that the tent looks far too boring so after scouring the supermarket for some permanent markers have all started to decorate the tent. Doodles of places we have been will hopefully one day cover the dull grey and blue. For now we have Auckland tower, sheep and a kiwi – no mistaking it’s our tent now.

 

I know that this will not hit our blog for a while but I just wanted to wish everyone a Happy New Year and let’s hope it’s a good one – for me as great as 2007 was. To all those who are travelling in 2008 – it’s this year – not long to go now!!!

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Christmas Tahiti Style

January 1st, 2008

Arriving at nearly midnight to a country with humidity so high my hair grew in volume by about 3 inches was not a great start. I had to phone our pension so they would come and pick us up – mobile did not want to work at all on the island, no coin phones so had to buy a phone card from the bar – ahhhh! At least we are here.

The next day after a rest and an amazing view of the next island from our room our spirits were lifted. It looks like paradise, the colours are so vibrant – greens, pinks, yellows and the sound of foreign birds in the trees………….. and even my French has been understood. It feels so weird that everyone is speaking French but so nice that I can understand everything. We ventured out on “Le Truck” to look round Papeete. Le Truck is a bus service that you can flag down from anywhere, it’s like a covered van that has wooden benches stuck in it – including one along the middle that you have to straddle to sit on. All very cosy but the people are so friendly that it was quite fun going round the corners.

Papeete is not a very pretty town. Many people have said they felt in danger walking around but I didn’t get that vibe at all. We walked through the markets and flower stalls – women were making leis and flower arrangements for Christmas and the smells were amazing – Glade should take a leaf out of their book. Shoppers all seemed to be busy with last minute Christmas buys but again it still does not feel like Christmas Eve. There are a few decorations but it just feels too hot! The rain did nothing to clear the humidity and by the time we had walked up the hill to our pension we were all shattered and ready for bed. PS note to Santa – am so sorry but I completely forgot to put out any milk and cookies for you this year!

Christmas Day

Well our present opening was the fastest in years. We got each other one small one and also treated ourselves to chocolates. Josh bless him had also bought some from the duty free on the plane unknown to us so it was like a mini feast! Our room also had it’s one Christmas decoration hanging up so we were set.

It rained for most of the day and after some enquiries at the tourist office yesterday everything on the island was shut. The posh hotels wanted $150 each for the Christmas buffet so a bit out of our price range. We had stocked up on food yesterday at the supermarket, even a baguette costs close to £2.50 in Tahiti – I have no idea how the islanders manage on such steep costs. After a trashy Christmas movie we got ready to go out for a walk but it poured down so we spent the afternoon reading trashy magazines that someone had left (a treat as have not looked at one in months) and watching more pirate movies that we purchased in Peru and playing travel games. It sounds boring but we actually had a nice day.

Boxing Day

With everything open again it was time to go exploring. We had to change accommodation as the place we were in was full so the lovely Lola came and picked us up  and dropped us off at the bus stop – she was so much friendlier than the other hosts we had and a real character.

Moorea is the next island to Tahiti and has a much more relaxed feel – imagine Lost and you’re there. The mountains rise high and are covered in greenery, the white sand beaches are all framed by palm trees and the clear turquoise water just calls to you………….The boat over was filled with tourists – many kids stroking what looked like new ipods. It was nice to have the sun out and to sit on the top deck taking in the rays.

Our day trip was to the Lagoonarium – a mini island only accessible by small boat just off the coast of Moorea. You can snorkel with rays, turtles and sharks. We nearly missed the entrance as it basically a tiny shack on the side of the road. We had to wade out to the outrigger that took us across and very unelegantly fall into the boat. A 5 min ride across and we were there. The island is tiny but it looked incredible. The rays and sharks stay close to the shore as there is a net keeping them in which was a bit disappointing but the kids had fun feeding the rays and having them go over their feet. The reef lies in very shallow waters so you could go out for a swim outside the nets but we have been spoilt in Hawaii and Mexico and there weren’t as many fish to see. O and I went for a walk around the island and we did see weird sea snake/cucumber things that looked like a tube from a hoover – very strange! O also found a huge shell with beautiful inlay that we asked if we could keep it as a souvenir – I hope it gets past customs in NZ. I can’t believe we will be there tomorrow – I am sooo excited!

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December 16th – Trip To Machu Picchu

January 1st, 2008

A really bad night last night. We had a power cut in Cusco and most of the night I spent intimately acquainting myself with the bathroom. I thought we would beat Montezuma’s Revenge but it was not to be, at least it was only me and not the kids. You can imagine what a picture of health I was when we arrived at the train station on the 16th to get the 7.00am backpackers train to Aguas Calientes. The journey is 4 hours, it felt like half of it was taken up just getting out of Cusco. As the train rises over the city it goes backwards and forwards to manage the steep grade and narrow rails – slowly. We passed the outskirts of the city – houses barely finished, paths of mud, children rummaging for rubbish alongside the tracks and lots of dogs. People with hopeless stares catch your eye and the whole segment of that journey was very uncomfortable.

 

The train was packed and in our carriage were the American couple from the Colca Canyon trip – you just keep on bumping into people! The scenery changed from cityscape to countryside and as we approached Aquas Calientes became mountainous and more like a jungle – very green. The train cuts through a valley with the mountains raising high either side. The town is actually lower than Cusco but as the clouds are quite low it still feels high. Aquas Calientes is a town on a steep incline built very quickly solely for tourism. A fast paced river runs through the middle and most of the streets are pedestrianised – it’s ugly. Our hotel was of course at the top of the hill so by the time we got there I just wanted to sleep.

 

We ventured out in the evening and found a nice restaurant with a darts board and sofas. The kids amused themselves and were joined by a 6 year old German girl (who had fantastic English) and who beat them hands down even though it was her first time! I chatted to her mother who was checking out Cusco for a place to live but after having been there a while was not at all impressed.

 

Our guide was supposed to show up at the hotel between 7 and 8. He showed up at 10.30 which was not ideal as we had to get up at 4.45am the next morning. I was so excited about the trip up to Machu Picchu tomorrow that I though I would never get to sleep but luckily my body was exhausted and we all went out like a light.

 

It had been raining the past few days (we had met our Japanese friend walking up the street who had arrived a few days earlier) so I was relieved to see the sun was shining and a blue sky as we walked down to get the bus. I give full credit to the kids as they got up without complaining (so I might have not told them the correct time…………….). There was already a queue for the bus but everyone looked as excited as I felt. The journey takes about 20 minutes  up a very windy loopy path but what a view! We mulled around the entrance while we waited for the whole group to assemble and it was a mixture of lazy people like us who took the bus and Inca Trailers who had made it up that morning. A few had also just walked up from Aquas Calientes and their bodies were literally steaming by the time they joined us. It was a follow the umbrella tour round the site but as we were early it was relatively deserted. How on earth do I describe the first time you see the site? It appears below you as you clear the short steep walk up (huffing all the way) – amazing. We were also lucky in that the mist kept seeping across for half an hour so one minute you could not see a thing and the site was covered and the next it would appear as if someone had just taken off a cloak. It really is a spiritual place and even O who gets very bored of ruins was impressed. The llamas grazing on the site just add to the whole “out of this world” feeling about the place.

 

My energy or lack of it did not allow me to climb the mountain Huanaya Picchu as I was shattered but we had a good wander around the site after the guided tour to take in the atmosphere. You can’t really put on paper what it feels like to be there so I won’t try, just if you ever get the chance to go there – do. It really lives up to the hype.

 

The train back was at 5 and again full of tourists and many who had completed the Inca Trail. It was good to hear all the stories about the trek and the camping and I am also glad that I did not do it – it sounded hard and not as fantastic as all the stories say……………..Everyone was tired so it was good to get back to the hotel in Cusco and a nice warm bed. What a day and another item I can cross off my things to do before I reach old age list.

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Lake Titikakakakakakaaaa

January 1st, 2008

December 12th – Lake Titicaca

 

Puno is the city on the edge of the lake. The view of the city from the bus as you descend in was not great. Dusty roads, half built houses and tiny streets, a complete contrast to the huge  mass of tranquil water that lies just beyond. Lake Titicaca is the highest navigable lake in the world – about 4000m high and it is enormous.

 

We were met at the bus station and taken to a very nice hotel. It seems full of tour groups of all ages but was very central so we went out for a walk and found a very nice pizzeria to eat. The town feels very full of people and all tourists get accosted by children selling finger puppets, women selling alpaca jumpers or restaurant owners shoving menus under your nose. A very firm “no gracias” does the trick most of the time!

 

Early start the next day and another tour. I was pleased to see completely new people on the minibus as we were driven down to the lake. Irish, Australian, Peruvian and French this time, a nice mix and it looks like we will have a good time. The best bit – there was a 19 year old Australian girl – absolutely stunning and wearing a skirt. I remark as her legs were showing travelling growth of about 3 weeks – excellent I could completely relax!!!

The boat took us first to the floating Islands of Uros. A community that live on these islands made of reeds – houses included. There is an extended family per island and apparently if an argument cannot be resolved the island just gets cut in half and moored elsewhere! The group had the talk by the guide about the people and their life but it was all a bit staged. There are watchtowers on each island, we asked what they were for – just the tourists to take pictures – hmmmm. There was 1 woman sewing a wool tapestry for show and many other women with these pictures for sale on theor stalls. We all joked that they shipped the pictures in from India and that one picture had been worked on for months. Sounds a bit harsh but this was the feeling that we all got – it was just a bit too much.

 

We had a ride in an old fashioned reed boat to another island. One new use for recycling – all the plastic water bottles the tourists throw away are put under the hull to make the boat float! The other island had a small “hotel” where you could sleep in a straw tepee overnight. There were also much smarter looking houses around the back – we all wondered if the straw houses on the other islands were for show and actually everyone lived in the better houses. We joked about there being a Starbucks and sure enough we came across a coffee shop – giggles all round. Looks like we have the cynical trip this time – but quite a laugh.

 

Another couple of hours on the boat and I can tell you that the lake is not always as calm as it looks. After diving and rolling our way through the waves we finally reached Amantani – our island stay for the night. We will be staying with a native family for the night. The island has no cars, only solar powered electricity for the few bulbs and live a very simple life. The islanders greet you at the dock and you are split into pairs (or 3’s). It felt like they were looking you up and down and picking you on your merits – eg that one looks like they can chop wood – I’ll have that one. We were slowly picked off couple by couple and we got a very grumpy looking old man – everyone else had a smiley woman. Help.

 

The houses are up a steep walk. With the altitude and the fact that our house seemed to be the highest of the lot I was huffing with my heart thumping in my chest before we got there. We had to stop twice as your legs just won’t work like you expect them to. Bet the host was thinking he picked a right lot. The island is very pretty, small agricultural plots, eucalyptus trees and 2 storey plaster houses with tin roofs. There are no roads (no cars) but walkways that have been paved with pebbles. The house was very basic but our room was cosy – with 3 beds (lots of blankets), reeds pinned to the wall to keep in the heat and a plastic sheet on the ceiling under the tin roof. There were bed pans under the beds – OMG is this what we were supposed to use – our host had just left us in the room and disappeared. Luckily as we were about to use them (really desperate for the loo now) he appeared so I dared to ask. Thank god – there was an outside loo way out back by the donkey. Think how embarrassing it would have been is we had used the chamber pots.

 

Lunch was with the family. They had a little room with a fire where the family (Ambrosia, Benedita and Judith) were and they invited us in. A table with 3 settings faced the fire – it was like a panel of judges. The family just sat on the floor and would not join us at the table. Judith is the same age as O so I was trying (in my pigeon Spanish) to talk about her school but the family were very quiet. Was it my bad Spanish or were they just like this normally? It felt good to escape at 4 when a walk to the summit of the island had been arranged with the tour to watch the sunset.

 

Back with the group of course we all compared hosts and food we were given. Our house has bulbs in the bedroom and we had cheese for lunch so the Ritz of the island as others had no cheese and candles. Looks like we have landed unfriendly family as all the others had nice chats (and their Spanish is worse than mine). The climb to the top was punishing and the drummer boy who accompanied us beating faster and faster did not really help. The view was amazing and the quality of light at the top something to behold. The walk down – great.

 

After dinner we were invited to don the traditional costume and accompany our families to a fiesta. Josh had poncho and hat, us girls had layers of thick butt enhancing skirts and shawls. It was fun dressing up and the clothes were nice and warm as by this time the temperature had dropped. Stepping out in the pitch black (no street lights) with our torches just made you realise how much you take for granted but the view of the stars – wow. I have never in my life seen so many clear stars – it was like looking at another world – incredible and made me trip us more than once as I just kept looking upwards. The dancing was fun – imagine 2 people holding hands sawing wood going backwards and forwards – a bit like that. It lasted an hour and then everyone was sooo tired it was straight back home to bed.

 

Early rise next day (villagers get up at 4!) and on the boat by 8. It was a great experience but I was glad to get back to our world of technology. The lake was also a lot calmer. A visit to the island of Taquille which is famous for handicrafts. Slight issue in that the village is a 1 hour trek (mostly uphill) from the port. All of us were again heaving by the time we arrived and the famous handicrafts were no better than on the other island. I would miss it out. The “famous” 500 steps back down to the other main port left my legs shaking. The steps were huge and snaked round – an assault course. We were all glad to get back on the boat and during the journey back sat on the top and Ian told us all about Sydney and what to do in Australia when we get there. Although we put sunscreen on we all got burned!

 

December 14th – Puno To Cusco

 

It was sad to say goodbye to everyone on the trip but onwards we must go. It was nice to get back to the hotel and have a shower!

 

Another early start and a bus trip with a difference from Puno to Cusco. The bus stopped at about 6 places on the way so broke up the journey. We saw ruins, an amazing church, a llama with blue eyes and the highest pass, complete with glaciers. It is at over 4000m – if you were in an aircraft the cabin would be pressurised at this height so it was the highest we have been without oxygen. I and J the Australian couple were on another bus doing the same route and stops so we kept bumping into them.

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Flight Of The Condor

December 11th, 2007

Firstly I apologise – there will be no photos for a while as my camera has packed up on me. We have a spare but no lead so you will have to imagine with just the text.

Ok what have we been up to? Oh yes – Colca Canyon. We were picked up (again at some ungodly hour) to go to the canyon. The minibus was full of Peruvians, Japanese, Morrocan and American tourists (12 in all) so we made up quite a bunch. The guide Consuelo was brilliant and we learnt so much during our 2 day trip. The journey out to the canyon took about 5 hours. The scenery included llamas, alpacas and pecunias, flamingoes and rocky dessert like hills. The altitude started to affect everyone in the bus in different ways but we just had heavy heads and felt very sleepy. Cocoa leaf tea is the remedy. It tastes disgusting but really calms your body down – it is only sold in Peru as it is viewed as a drug in other countries. Well it is medicinal after all.

We arrived in Chivay (our overnight town) in the afternoon. The town is nestled deep in a very green valley (the soil is very good for agriculture) and the people here still live a very traditional (and hard) life. After a huge lunch we paid a visit to the local volcanic hot springs. Not as nice as Baldi but had chatted away the afternoon with some Brits we had met on the overnight bus the night berfore. It´s so strange but you keep bumping into the same people on your way round.

The town was in a middle of a fiesta. 3 different brass bands were playing music in the town square and everyone was in traditional dress and dancing. The party went on all night and was still going strong the next morning! We all ate in a restaurant with traditional folk night, a bit corny but when Josh was dragged up to dance and then “whipped” on the floor by a Peruvian lady, well we were all on the floor laughing. A great day but freezing night. It is soo cold – we were given hot water bottles when we got back to the hotel – brrrr!

Up again at 5.30 can you believe. Today we were taken to the canyon itself. The views are amazing. It is twice as deep as the Grand Canyon but it is not as dramatic. The valley is full of Incan grass terraces where food is harvested. It reminded of the rice terraces in Indonesia (I think). A stunning view. We saw the stone that Incans used to map out the terraces and they are still there in the same formation.

The reason for the early start was to see the condors. They are at their best in the morning so by 8.30 we had arrived to watch the amazong huge birds fly. To see them just glide by with the backdrop of the mountains and canyon was something I will never forget. It was so peaceful there – actually quite spiritual. The Incans believed that the condor was responsible for ferrying your soul to heaven so they have always been reveered (that looks wrong). The birds for me will always be linked to the song “Play That Funky Music White Boy” as Youssef was listening to it (loudly) on his i-pod when a huge bird glided over us and seemed to be watching us instead of the other way round. He was ribbed for some time about the choice of music!

The bus was very quiet on our return as we were all so tired from the altitude and slept most of the way. It was a great couple of days and I enjoyed mixing with all the different people – many of whom were also on our bus today to Puno!

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December 8th – Arequipa

December 8th, 2007

A first for all of us – the overnight bus. All the guidebooks say they have been hijacked and take at your own risk so you can appreciate I was a little apprehensive. There seemed to be lots of tourists on the bus so wasn’t too worried. We didn’t get on the bus until 11pm and poor Josh had to climb over the guy who had fallen asleep in the aisle seat. This is more difficult as the seats recline so much so he had to slip in at a virtual 90 degree angle. The journey passed without incident and I slept pretty well. We were woken up with breakfast and a view of the mountain pass we were climbing.

 

Arequipa is a fertile valley surrounded by mountains and a volcano. Yes at last we have a view of the volcano – no lava but it is nice to see the top of one! We checked in to the hotel and slept again. When we felt a bit more human we ventured into the town. I had to take my camera in as it has given up the ghost – I think some sand has got in it. We found a shop that I hope he understood and has taken it in but I do feel at the mercy of the Gods a tiny bit.

 

Found the supermarket and stocked up and then onto the big yellow tour bus of the city. I love these buses, you are so obviously a tourist riding along in a yeallow double decker with Peruvian music playing to add to the atmosphere. All the kids wave at you and it is so nice to see so many smiles. Many buildings are made from white Volcanic rock and the architecture is quite spectacular. There are quite a few churches and one had a communion/baptism service in progress. We were all invited in and the little girls looked so sweet in their finest satin dresses with their hair all curled. I can’t imagine our country being quite so friendly somehow and it makes me sad. These people have so much less in terms of material things and yet are welcoming, friendly and willing to share their most precious moments with us strangers. The bus took us out into the country and among other things we saw traditional farm workers laden with packs on their backs – tied with sheets. Many women wore the traditional hats and also had babies tied to their backs. There are many fields growing all sorts of crops and cows, llamas and alpacas we saw them all. It got a bit cold on the way back so had to wear my alpaca hat and look like a complete tourist!

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