Buenos Aires; San Telmo, Parillas y Palermo
I got to my hostel in BA around midday, this is the building it’s in. Really nice hostel.
Then after a long awaited shower I went straight out to find some lunch. I got 3 “meals” on the plane, but they aren’t very big and I was on it for 16 hours, I was famished. A small cafe serving empanadas was the solution. I managed to order and pay etc without using any English or pointing at anything, very happy with that.
I walked around the immediate area near my hostel, which is on the main road in the centre, Av de Mayo. Lots of wonderful buildings with cool architecture. I didn’t have the energy to do anything in the form of sightseeing, so after relaxing at the hostel for while I went out looking for some steaks with the guy I met on the flight over. We got a recommendation for a Parilla (barbecue restaurant), but when we got there, around 6:30, we discovered it wasn’t open for another hour. It seems most restaurants open around 8pm, but locals don’t really show up until closer to 10. While waiting for it to open we walked around the area, full of shops that had closed for the day, and restaurants and bars that either hadn’t opened yet or were very dead. We did find one really nice cafe/bar, that actually had a few people in it. I ordered what appeared to be the house beer, and received a quite good pale ale. I didn’t expect good beer in Argentina, so this was a nice surprise. Walking around this San Telmo district reminded me a lot of Italy.
After that, we headed back to the restaurant which was now open and had a few customers inside. However the experience was not as good as I was expecting. The names of steaks on the menu were mostly different than the ones I had heard were good, most of the people in the place were tourists, and the menu had English translations on it. The steak was pretty good beef, but was almost well done and were not asked how we wanted it cooked! The wine was very good, and went perfectly with the meat. Argentinean Malbec. The best thing was the price, a steak at a nice place with side, 2 glasses of wine and the service charge included cost me about $9usd. More to come. After that, I went back to my hostel and slept, something I hadn’t done much of the last 3 nights.
My second day in BA, (it’s July already??) I ventured farther out of the city, into palermo, one of the barrios outside of the centro district. Walked through the botanical gardens and Japanese gardens first…
Then I just wandered through the area, on a few of the main avenues and looked for lunch. Tried the Italian aspect this time, a pizza and pasta place with nice tablecloths and fancy decor, the sort of place I would never walk into in most countries due to the cost. I had a large portion of delicious handmade fresh pasta, with an equally good assortment of freshly baked bread, a drink and the price came to just under $8usd! After that I continued walking around the large barrio of Palermo, past loads of cafes and an assortment of shops. The odd square lined with both too.
After taking the metro back to the centre, I walked around Plaza Mayo, at the start of Av de Mayo this is the main square in the city. Then back down Av de Mayo to my hostel, crossing one of the widest roads in the world, 9 lanes in total going in each direction, divided into 4 roads. All along Av de Mayo are lovely old buildings, and indeed all over the city. Me gusta estar aqui.
That night, we went out again searching for another steakhouse. (after 9pm this time) After wandering around for a while, we found one that looked better than the night before. It was. No other tourists around, excellent service, similar prices and we were asked how we wanted the steaks cooked. This steak lived up to the reputation. Bife de chorizo es muy delicioso.
After dinner, we went to the same bar as the previous night, had a couple drinks as the place slowly emptied out and and at 1:30 we were handed the bill as they were closing. This in the “city that never sleeps”!
Tags: Argentina, Travel
Adam
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