Buenos Aires; Recoleta, La Boca and more steak
I slept well after my excellent steak, just making sure to get up before 11 to get the free breakfast. Left the hostel around noon for the barrio of Recoleta, an upper class neighborhood that is home to the famous cemetery where Eva Peron and many other famous Argentineans are buried.
On my way there I had lunch, and stumbled into a microbrewery, tried their beer (average) and walked around a bit, slightly disappointed at the buildings there, much newer overall and much of it just looked like a well off area of any Western city. A few old gems still exist there though.
The cemetery is another story entirely. The massive tombs/shrine, some of which have glass windows so you can look inside at the coffins are a range of different architectural styles, some are very impressive. Walking around there is morbid and cool at the same time, strange feeling. Went back to my hostel after that and had some good pizza for dinner from the building next door, but cemented my opinion that the centre is not good for nightlife. I booked a hostel in Palermo, home to much more, for the weekend.
On Friday, I walked to San Telmo, during the day this time and found it much busier with all sorts of restaurants and shops that were long closed when I’d been there at night. I walked into a pizza place on a side street that advertised “empanadas llevar”, which were delicious but when I saw the pizzas they were bringing out to people I made a mental note to go back there for one at night one day.
From San Telmo I walked to the barrio of La Boca, where the first European settlement here was. This area is not the most affluent area, and you aren’t recommended to walk around on much more than the few touristed streets. I walked through Barracas on the way, the streets around here aren’t as modern and “polished” as the other parts of the city I’ve been in.
The part of La Boca I saw, near the Boca Jr football stadium, is full of colourful houses and cobbled streets. Lots of street art as well, corner cafes and lots of tourist shops. Nice to look at but annoying to deal with all the people trying to sell you things, they even had a Diego Maradona look alike you could pose with. On the longish walk back to my hostel I found some helado de dulce de leche, muy delicioso. Then stopped at the bar I previously mentioned and like in San Telmo and tried another one of their great beers. A good day out, about 10km of walking all together.
At night, I went out with a group from the hostel to the best renowned parilla in BA. La Cabrera Norte. This place costs more than most, my steak, the highest priced on the menu was about $15. I paid about $25 in total for melt in your mouth good steak, wine, water, service and sides. The cuts of meat were huge, everyone was sampling everybody else’s steaks as well, none were less than great. The size of the single portion of rump steak, was around 1kg, probably the largest piece of meat I’ve seen served ever. A couple people split one and still couldn’t finish it. Mine was large but the right amount. This was probably the latest meal I’ve ever eaten in my life, since the reservation we had for 10:00 was forgotten and we had to wait an hour and a half to get in. Started eating at 12:30, left the restaurant at 2:00. This is slightly after the peak dining hour here but certainly not uncommon as there were many people in the restaurant and the queue to get in was going until 1:00.
Tags: Argentina, Travel
Adam
is it light there real late into evening? it seems that no one does anything till late.
nope, it gets dark by 6:30pm, it is mid winter here.
What are the side dishes?
some of those were sauces, mustard, some other stuff I don’t know. There was a sort of pasta salad and roasted garlic. Another whole platter of sides included sweet potato mash, applesauce and several other unknown quantities.
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