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in search of shade

Wednesday, August 5th, 2009

by Rach
hovering just above the coast near Narbonne, looking out at the Mediterranean Sea

It doesn’t seem that long ago that we were desperately in search of sun. Today we, with the rest of the population in the south, looked instead for shade. When the mercury had jumped up past thirty before ten in the morning and the sky was deep clear blue with only a few wisps that could hardly pass as clouds waiting to be burnt up we all knew it was going to be a scorcher. And it was. Our thermometers would register another eight-and-a-half degrees before the day was out, and it would be almost twelve hours before it would drop below thirty again. This is exactly what we came for!

We also came for Carcassonne. Friends had been given the game not long before we left NZ and we had played once. We had been given some money for Christmas presents, some of which went on an Asian chess set, and the remainder on a European purchase: the Carcassonne game. When in Berlin we saw the mega-set with lots of extensions for half-price. The pictures on the box alone would have been enough to convince the children that this would be a great way to spend the money, but the people we were staying with had a game, so they were able to try it out; it was declared a winner. We umm-ed and aah-ed about having to carry such a big box, and after a week made the crazy decision to purchase.
In wet and wild Northumberland we were thankful! Carcassonne wiled away the hours. And we’ve kept playing. Every time we are somewhere for enough hours to be caught up on journalling and clothes washing, the enormous box comes out.

So Carcassonne became our French destination.

 

We had heard it was a working medieval town and expected to see a lot of artisans plying their trades. Apart from a very bored-looking eagle handler and horse-n-cart drivers, the only crafts were ready-made and for sale. It was less of a museum and more of a boutique-y and cuisine-y assortment. That is not to say there was no museum – there were, in fact, a few, each with their own entrance fee. There was also a fee for walking the ramparts and another for going IN to the castle, and yet another for the jousting show. You could pay to take a cart ride and you could pay to take a twenty minute ride on a land train with audio commentary, or you could just enter the walled city and wander around. This, as you can probably imagine, was our choice. Actually, we intended to get a feel for the place and then see if we wanted to do any of the pay attractions, but by the time we had finished our wandering (and had taken in the castle from the outside, a good portion of the wall, the cathedral, the alleys and a local delicacy, the crispy sugar-coated Oriellettes), all we were interested in was water and shade. It was a scorcher, remember. So we left the throngs relaxing in the shade of trees and umbrellas and enjoying the French cuisine, we left the throngs milling through the narrow streets looking at exquisite linens, slabs of nougat, leather-bound journals, handmade jewellery, ceramic plaques, children’s medieval dress-ups and delightful inkwells and dipping pen sets; we were satisfied to have seen the actual walls that are illustrated on the game pieces, the actual turrets, the actual countryside, the actual cathedral (etc etc, you get the idea). The game will never be the same again!

 

Introducing the medieval walled town of Carcassonne:

 

Time on the road: need to check Jboy13’s record!
Distance covered: 114km

*WH*

Tuesday, August 4th, 2009

by uninspired Rachael
30km from Carcassonne

“I don’t know what to blog about today,” I moaned.
”What do you mean? It was a beautifully scenic drive today!” Rob countered.
”It might have been, but it’s a bit boring to just write “Today the scenery was very nice. The End.””
”Just put up pictures from today then.”
”But I did that yesterday. Can’t get away with that again.”

What makes it even worse is Grandpa is sitting out on his park bench totally inspired, tapping away at his keyboard like a woodpecker that thinks there’s no tomorrow. He was invited to come for a Carcassonne match, but responded, “Not just now, not while I’m inspired to write.” Aaaahhhh, if only I could think of something.

The disciplines of writing leads me to the wh-questions.

Who?
It’s us still! Here are the kiddos yesterday:

Where?
We’re up at two and a half thousand feet in a generous layby off the one road that is winding its way over the hills.

Wooden seats nestle amongst the trees on one side of the roadway and on the other marble tables are flanked by concrete benches, all in the shade of enormous trees that proved to be a fantastic imaginative playground for a couple of hours while we prepared dinner. Oh yes, dinner. We gave it a Mediterranean name in honour of our new location – the further south we have ventured, the more Med it has looked. House colours have turned to predominantly varying shades of orange, pink and peach – roof tiles have turned from grey slate shingles with one curved edge to rounded terracotta “half-pipes”. Sunflowers still smile at us from their bonnetted faces, but there are also vineyards – row upon row of short stubby self-supporting grapevines laden with green fruit.

When?
Today.
Why were we born now? How different would life have been for us if we had been born seven hundred years ago? Who would we have been? What would we have done? Would we have travelled? It’s impossible to know. Although we certainly would not have been born in New Zealand! What if we hadn’t been born in NZ now? What if we had been born in Vietnam? Or Mongolia? I doubt we’d have been doing this.

What?
Travelling. Occasionally flirting with the idea of returning home. Not because we want to. Just because we know we have to. Grandpa asked the other day how we will cope with being stationary. He also confessed that he’s not looking forward to returning! I didn’t have an answer. Not for either of us.
I could happily keep moving – we could just keep driving down through Spain and before we’d know it we would be in Africa. Imagine that! Without time constraints we could get to know a place, not just zip through. But we are making the most of the time we have and are thankful that we are not going home in October. We could have been on the final countdown, but have a two-month reprieve….

Why?
Why not?

How?
Who cares?!

Time on the road: need to check Jboy13’s record!
Distance covered: 115km

beautiful and bountiful

Monday, August 3rd, 2009
by Rachael Cordes sur Ceil (we were going to go to Carcassonne today, but this place is so sweet, we stayed to take a wander and some photos, and add to our memory store) Maybe it’s because we’re here at harvest-time, ... [Continue reading this entry]

surprise drive

Sunday, August 2nd, 2009
by the back van driver Cordes sur Ceil, France We’ve taken you on strolls around villages, boat rides down rivers, treks across hills, trains across continents; we’ve taken you vicariously with us on tuktuks, tandems and even elephants. Today, would you ... [Continue reading this entry]

conversations

Saturday, August 1st, 2009
by Rachael Uzerche, France We’ve been away from home for 300 days today! Jboy13 is keeping count <wink> In Asia we had a standard conversation with everyone we came across. Are you one family? Yes. How many children are there? Eight. Ah you are so lucky. Thank you. Where ... [Continue reading this entry]

food (again) (well, this *is* France)

Friday, July 31st, 2009
by Rachael across the river, but still in Uzerche, France He stood at the baguette basket and picked up first one and then another, handled them gently, pressed a little, returned them until the best one was found. He was a ... [Continue reading this entry]

village wander

Thursday, July 30th, 2009
by Rachael Uzerches, France Do you have an hour to come for a stroll? I went alone this morning (although Grandpa VERY NEARLY came with me - “It’s a miserable business going alone",” he said, and only very strong reassurance bordering on ... [Continue reading this entry]

what’s not to like?

Wednesday, July 29th, 2009
by Rachael, caught by surprise Uzerche, France

 

I didn’t think we’d find much to say about France. I didn’t particularly want to come here (well, not unless I could spend ... [Continue reading this entry]

brown again

Tuesday, July 28th, 2009
by Rachael Uzerche, France (30 degrees Celsius at 7pm – now THAT’S the life!) A thick layer of brown dust covered absolutely everything from the ground to the treetops. Not here in France – that was in Laos and was the ... [Continue reading this entry]

not food, even though it’s France

Monday, July 27th, 2009
by Rach Motorway Aire just shy of Nonancourt,France We’ve been told every conversation in France turns to food. And early this morning a Bonjour at our campervan door did turn into a request for sugar. But we are not foodies. We ... [Continue reading this entry]