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slow on the go

Sunday, July 26th, 2009

by Rachael
Quend-de-les-Pins, France

There’s something about sun and sand and surf that lends a holiday air to even the mundane task of persuading encrusted-many-days-ago dirt to release its grip on clothing worn until we could find rays to ensure it would not hang, flapping like bats around our heads, dripping forlornly on white plastic coathangers from the roof vents and overhead cupboard handles for day after musty day.
That same holiday air enlivened the re-stacking of the food supplies. It made gluing some falling-apart sandshoes more hopeful. It provided bright prospects for the de-rusting and reassembling of bicycles relegated to the tops of vans for a long wet English interlude. It even made more bearable the next, the umpteenth round of Womo repairs; or perhaps the result of having a working tap and not-falling-down shelf would have been prize enough.
What is it about the sun and sea air that made us, by lunchtime, feel in holiday mode?
Rob wandered off to the sand dunes, thick novel in hand, a bevvy of older children scampering around and before him. I (after catching up on the seemingly-neverending photo downloading and blog post writing) selected my own book and hoped the still sleeping children would remain so for a good while longer. The sea air ensured they did, and fortuitously, when they awoke a Big Brother appeared to whisk them to the top of the dunes and then pull them down again on a plastic bag. A few more chapters to chortle and chuckle through. It was with reluctance that I put the book down (mid chapter, no less) to pick up a weapon for shearing a black-speckled-with-distinguished-silver mane. Dinner interrupted another snatch of reading, but once children were in bed, with the sun setting over the ocean, I feasted my way to the end of Peter Mayle’s “Toujours Provence”, and tasted the preface of “A Year in the World” (Frances Mayes). There couldn’t be more location-appropriate holiday reading for France – though I know I am going to have to read the eighth chapter (British Isles) and the eleventh that we missed (Scotland), before I’ll be able to turn my attention to France, Greece or Italy where we are headed, much less Spain or Portugal, even if *they* are chapters one and two. (Of course, we all know there is a plethora of books set in Tuscany, but these are two I have been gifted this past week and the I couldn’t have asked for a better selection).

All pervasive, this holiday air, releasing you from convention, allowing spontaneity, encouraging relaxation.

By darkness I realise we have entered, not only a new country, but also a new phase of our journey. There may be castles in France, but we will not be seeking them out. There’s bound to be a memorial to Napolean and another to Marie Antoinette, but we won’t be looking for them either. There are world famous art galleries and museums, but, as interested as we are in these things, we will not be going out of our way to find them. I mean to say, we are not even going to Paris!
We will still see poodles and high-heeled ladies, but only by chance. We are taking a leisurely Sunday afternoon style drive across the fields of France, making sure just-sit-here-and-enjoy-the-scenery days are frequent, stopping whenever we want to, dining on fresh bread and a variety of cheeses along the way. All the way to sunny Provence.
Memories of our first baguettes on the trip flood back. It was Laos and we had not eaten one piece of good bread since leaving our homemade staple behind. This one was filled with fromage from France as well as cucumbers split lengthwise and tomatoes thinly sliced. A splash of chilli sauce reminded us we were still in Asia, but we had a taste of France. A taste of flavour and a taste of pace. Slow it was. Super slow. I drag that thought to the forefront of my mind – although only here for a couple of weeks, we will travel slowly through France, not doing much, but experiencing plenty. And hopefully loving it as much as Laos.

PS Dear Kate, Sorry we’re not going to Paris! Love Usxx

Time on the road: none!
Distance covered: 0km

different

Saturday, July 25th, 2009

by Rach
Quend-Plage-les-Pins, France

“I wouldn’t bother travelling to Europe; it’s too similar to home.”
How many times have we heard that?
Often it is said by people who, by virtue of the proximity of their home town to The Continent, have the opportunity to easily zip to Spain, Greece, Luxemburg or Egypt if they so desire. For a Kiwi to go ANYWHERE there has to be a sea crossing, invariably (or at least, most cheaply) involving an aeroplane and many hours.

It is true, that in many respects, Asia is more different to our daily life in Kiwi-land. Africa would be more exotic. But Europe cannot be said to be NOT DIFFERENT.

I had heard the above quote so many times in England that I was surprised by the difference our first day in France.

For a start, the sun was shining. HALLELUJAH!!!! The sky was a deep blue early in the morning and the barely discernible breeze was warm.

The architecture was different – different to home, different to Asia and different to England. Even in the short drive from ferry to sleeping spot we had noticed this – and that was in the dark! Apart from being newer than England, there were many square houses with 45 degree pitched roofs mingling amongst six-or-seven storey apartment blocks and communities of houses circularly clustered around a grassed or concreted open space. The many colours of paint made me realise in retrospect, that England had been predominantly white or stone-coloured.
The roads were different too. For a start you could see – no hedges or overhanging trees obscuring your vision. At roundabouts we had to remember to look left and turn right. And the roads were littered with signs; big ones for motorised vehicles, miniature ones for bicycles. The signs informed us we could go at 50 – and we had to remember that was fifty as per our speedo, not an adjusted-to-miles fifty! (Actually, in the case of my speedo, it’s fifty plus ten percent to arrive at real-moving-speed. You get that with old vans!)
Many of the signs lining the streets were unintelligible to non-French-speaking moi. And when people opened their mouths I felt even more alienated. I don’t just mean the frogs, either. The two men of our party have taken to parlez-ing francois….except when we want directions to a supermarket. That’s still my job <wink> Good thing I understand hand signals and can nod a lot! Actually, I broke into German to ask the lady to wait a moment and called Grandpa to help – he may not have spoken French for sixty-something years, but I *never* have! Within a day we are all picking it up though – with Rob insisting we “Ecoutez et repetez!” we can’t help but learn “My name is…” and “Where is the toilet?”, not that we would understand if anyone dared to answer us! And quickly we learn PAIN is nothing sore, fromage blanc is delicious and white, and as we pass over “Le petite pont” I understand what my primary school teacher had us singing all those years ago; sur le pont d’Avignon. I even find Avignon on the map later. France sure ain’t New Zealand.
Tomorrow I’ll be sloshing red wine into a meat sauce (for nachos – OK, so not very French, but we will have had croissants for breakfast and pain campagne for lunch)…and y’know what? It feels so much more *French* to perform this little action in France than in Kiwi suburbia!
Were we speaking of different? You kiwis should see the supermakets here. Well, the one we went into anyway. We had thought Sainsbury’s in England were big. This one was GINORMOUS. (To be fair to the exotic-difference seekers, we visited an even bigger one in Singapore – it was spread across many floors and was a jumbled conglomeration of a variety of products – rice sitting next to flowers for example, or jam with the potato chips – and the aisles were narrow and the shelves were high and the faces were all a different colour – and so, yes, it was further along the difference cline….but Carrefour still overwhelmed us in France.) It overwhelmed and it gave us a sense of exactly where we were. Where else would you “buy ten baguettes and get one free”? Even we don’t need THAT many!! There were two whole bays just of Camembert cheese, never mind all the other varieties. There were so many pastries, we ended up simply buying the first ones we saw – how else is one to choose?
This supermarket had well over twenty wide and long aisles at the front of the shop, an open area in the middle and another twenty-something aisles towards the back of the shop, then deli counters all the way along the back. As if this was not big enough, there were mirrors at either end to give the illusion of being even bigger still. But while the shop might have been big, many of the prices were little. Instead of parting with a couplea quid for half a dozen tomatoes, we could buy a big bag for just over a euro. Watermelons 2.50, French sticks a few cents, even if you bought only four!

It took not long to decide that even if others might find France to be too familiar, we were going to love it.

Time on the road: need to check Jboy13’s record!
Distance covered: 97km

one last day, one last castle

Friday, July 24th, 2009
by Rachael, who feels a bit sad at missing Scotland and Wales, but eager to embrace the sun Calais, France That was our plan anyway. But first of all we had to suffer One Last English Rain – well, one downpour sufficiently ... [Continue reading this entry]

connecting historical faith

Friday, May 29th, 2009
by Rach Kehl, Germany – visit to Strasbourg, France The Tower of Babel, the Parting of the Red Sea, The Last Supper, Pentecost – these are a few important markers in the history of Christianity and today we were reminded of ... [Continue reading this entry]

all’s well

Thursday, May 28th, 2009
by Rach, who drove happily today and who noticed Grandpa had stopped clutching his seat Kehl, Germany (across the river from Strasbourg, where we tried to go) 2.2m read the sign, indicating the distance between the two concrete barriers into the ... [Continue reading this entry]

geschlossen gesperrt closed shut

Wednesday, May 27th, 2009
by Rach 9km from Basel, Switzerland – 2km from Weil am Rhein, Germany – 100m from French border How many things do you think could be closed in one day?
  1. The bridge we needed to cross!  Cute bridge ... [Continue reading this entry]