sightsee-ers, stars and scavengers
by Rachael
Koeln, Germany
Sightsee-ers
“No, a family ticket is for one family. You are one two three four and more people.”
“Yes, but we are one family. These are our children.”
”No, a family ticket is for only children of one family.”
”Alles klar. We are one family!”
”How many children do you have?”
”Seven.”
”Really seven?”
”Yes, seven.”
”Oh fantastic. I’m sorry I had to ask. That is wonderful.”
And by now the rest of the queue behind us was giggling along with the beaming cashier. So to give them something to really think about I added, “Actually, we have eight children, but one is outside.” It didn’t seem right to have lied in a church, but I thought they were going to count them and we only had seven with us at that stage!
Wouldn’t you agree it would have been ironical to not be allowed a LOT of children on a family ticket in a Catholic church? <wink>
We were at Koelner Dom (Cologne Cathedral), the city’s most famous landmark and unofficial symbol. It is a Gothic church, started in 1248, and completed in 1880 (having been an abandoned project for a few hundred years in the middle there!). It houses the Shrine of the Three Holy Kings that supposedly contains the relics of the Three Magi, although we didn’t get to check this out as we were ushered out of the cathedral soon after entering, due to it being Sunday and a service was about to begin. We were in there long enough to be impressed again at the grandeur of stained glass windows, the devotion stitched into enormous tapestries, the care taken creating intricate carvings, the atmosphere of glimmering candles.
We didn’t have to pay to go into the cathedral itself…payment was for the privilege of climbing the belfry. And at only 5euros for a whole family, it was not as exorbitant as some of the indulgences sold hundreds of years ago to fund the initial buildings.
Up we spiralled. Around and around and around. Up, up up. 533 steps. By the time we had also spiralled down, down, down 533 steps, around around and around, some of the smaller children were dizzy and jelly-legged with shaking knees!! The steps weren’t a problem – it was much easier than hiking in Thailand – but the spiralling left you with a strange sensation that is difficult to describe.
The view from the top was spectacular. The church, which had not looked *so* big from ground level, took on a completely new perspective. It was enormous. The vaulted ceilings, the “concrete filigree” lacework, the bells themselves. Gigantic.
Another impressive cathedral. Another old town. Actually, Koeln is one of the oldest we’ve been to, having been founded by the Romans in 38BC. Nero’s mother was born here (now that was a long time ago, wasn’t it?) and in 310 under Constantine a bridge was built over the Rhein here. She’s an ancient place, but doesn’t *feel* old, not even near the cathedral. Probably because the centre was completely destroyed during World War II. About 95% of the population of the city disappeared, due both to death and evacuation. 95%!! Can you even imagine that?
Reconstruction of the city followed the style of the 1950s, while respecting the old layout and naming of the streets. Thus, the city today is characterized by simple and modest post-war buildings (which don’t feel at all old even if their names are timeless), interspersed with a few pre-war buildings, which were reconstructed due to their historical importance. Like the cathedral. And that’s all the sightseeing we did.
Stars
Outside the cathedral was an array of the “statue men” we have been seeing in various towns. The children have been awed at their ability to stand stock still – I just wish a few of them would be further inspired and start practising for at least an hour every day! These particular ones, who included a grey-sheeted sheik, Charlie Chaplin, the usual black-n-white suits with white gloves and faces, and a sailor, interacted with their audience more than any of the others we have watched. These guys wanted you to come and pose with them, take a photo and leave money. The sailor probably did not bargain on Tgirl5 climbing up on his box with him when he simply extended his hand for a shake!!!!
When you’re eight years old, you know the protocol though:
Scavengers
The other day Rob contemplated picking up a deckchair he saw lying on the side of the road (wouldn’t hurt to have one chair for Grandpa-who-finds-the-mat-on-the-ground-to-be-a-long-way-down-these-days), but upon giving it a good kick, discovered why it had been left.
This afternoon Kboy11 rescued a ball floating down the river. He kicked it – it bounces. More successful than the deck chair.
Earlier, the Walking Along The River To The Cathedral discussion had centred on how much quicker it would be on bicycles. Only having two, we cannot transport everyone this way, and Grandpa worked out we just need three tandems, another single and two baby seats. At the cathedral I saw a father and daughter team roll up on scooters (not the motorised variety) and it occurred to me that this might be an option! Cheaper, anyway. And easier to store. The merits and drawbacks were discussed on the Walking Along The River Home Again. Partway along the riverbank promenade are five large rubbish bins. Sitting next to these five bins today was a baby seat designed to go on a bicycle. We inspected, knowing that with the experience of having fixed *something* every single day so far, a bicycle seat would most certainly be fixable by our residents expert fixers. We looked around. Had someone just put it down for a moment and would be back soon to retrieve it? No, for a start there was no-one around, and secondly Jgirl14 pointed out she had seen it there on our way past a few hours earlier. So we picked it up. And carried it home. And looked at it. And could find nothing wrong with it. Nothing at all. So we mounted it on a bike. And went for a ride.
(That’s the royal we, I had nothing to do with it at all other than say, “Pick it up, we can fix it.”)
With this new acquisition further fueling thoughts of alternative transport, Grandpa was soon expressing his interest in getting a folding bike (he is really unimpressed with the rubbish we picked up at the market and would love the excuse to indulge in a piece of technology he has long admired – heehee). So now we just need three tandems or half a dozen scooters.
Then we’d be able to fit in a whole lot more sightseeing.
Time on the road: all morning
Distance covered: at least 8km (judging by the distance markers on signs – Mr GPS took a break today and couldn’t tell us)
Tags: children, God, history, money, postcard: Germany, postcard: Rhein Road Trip, price, recreation, weather
rayres
Glad you ‘won out’ with the family ticket issue. It pays to be persistent sometimes doesn’t it? I continue to follow your travels with interest even though I don’t make comments too often. Its hard to believe you’ve been ‘on the road’ 8 months now. Does it seem unreal? I wonder how you will take to settling back to mundane suburbia when it’s all over. Perhaps you’ve caught the travel bug well and truly and will be soon planning another overland excursion.
Blessings!