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coping

Tuesday, January 13th, 2009

by the Mama
Phnom Penh, Cambodia

What I would like to know is who of the kids is coping the best and/or the least? How does age and personality come in to that? ~ asked by a friend

Interesting questions.

In a nutshell, everyone is coping really well. We are certainly no worse off than at home, and perhaps because we expected some days to be hard, it is not a shock when those days happen. But mostly, we are having a blast. What’s not to love about having Dadda around all the time, eating out, having something to journal about, seeing awesome sights, learning new things? In fact, to say we are “coping” well does not feel quite right. That seems to imply hardship to be faced, but we are not experiencing that at all. We’re having an adventure, and we’re adventure-loving sorts. I’d say we’re thriving rather than coping! Thriving. Privileged. Blessed. Honoured. Fortunate. Thankful. Yes, all of those things.

We had expected the eldest and youngest daughters to be the least settled. And at first it was almost a self-fulfilling prophecy. The youngest would wake every night (she NEVER did the nighttime waking thing at home) and inside a month she turned into a Dadda-only-thank-you-very-much girl. We tried to help her with these issues and she found her own little routines that, upon reflection, may have given her some security in a daily-changing world. Whenever we went into a restaurant or settled at a roadside stall, she would seek out the highchair and claim it for herself, despite the fact that she had not been using a highchair for months at home! But after Malaysia there were no more highchairs and this ritual was replaced by a need to sit next to flavour-of-the-month-Dadda, a desire we indulged, because who wants a scene at mealtime? Another Malaysia-ritual was playground spotting. Her keen wee eyes found every swing and slide set in the country! But again, these petered out in Thailand and she switched to finding 7-11 stores instead. Now in Cambodia there’s nothing to spot each day, and she’s back to the nighttime waking – maybe we’ll encourage her to find the squashed rats on our street or to count tuktuks.
The eldest daughter. By her own admission, it took her a month to feel comfortable with travelling, but then she loved it. She was the one we had thought might want to be going home at the three month mark, but she’s saying how much time is flying. Goes to show that no matter how well you know your children (or even how well they know themselves), there can be surprises.
Not surprising is the fact that every day there are issues to be dealt with. Now this happened at home too, so why would it be any different on the road? Especially when all the usual routines are stripped away, everything is unfamiliar, everyone is sharing beds and there’s nowhere to run around and let off steam.
Some of the children are missing the freedom to roam outside and ride bikes, build Lego constructions or read books. Everyone is feeling the fact that it is almost the end of our summer and we have not been to a beach (apart from one peek at the sea from a bus for a few minutes a couple of weeks ago, we have not even seen the ocean for two months). No-one is complaining about it though; it’s just one of those things. I’m not sure if age or personality play any part in that. I suspect the major factor is us adults leading by example. We are focusing on the experiences we have been privileged to have, instead of moaning about what we are not getting.
Although that’s not to say age and personality don’t play some part at other times. There is behaviour that is very closely related to age-n-stage development. That doesn’t change as we travel. The I’m-too-big-for-my-boots-attitude doesn’t afflict the smallest, but it manifests itself in different forms amongst some of the middle-sized kids. Way back at the beginning when it was REALLY HOT, it seemed that the smaller the group the member, the worse they fared. The kids who need their sleep at home, still need it on the road. The one who rarely looked where he was going at home was the one who walked into an oncoming tuktuk today (he’s OK – just got a headache from making contact with a wing mirror!) Older peeps can be reasoned with – there’s little point in trying that with a tired hungry crying two-year-old.
All of our kids have hearty appetites and are rarely reluctant to try new foods. This has stood them all in good stead. It means that they can always have their tummies filled, and this fact alone can make or break a day! I can imagine that if we had picky eaters, it would raise the stress levels considerably and make things difficult for everyone concerned.
Another thing that has made for “good coping” is a personality-thing. Both the adults can do a good extrovert impersonation when the need arises, and some of the children are naturally wired that way. This makes for cheery interchanges with people we come across. Unfortunately, it’s the youngest two girls who invite the most attention and they are the two who take the longest to warm up to new faces. We have, however, been pleasantly surprised at how readily they have taken to giving foreign language greetings – even if they do not altogether enjoy the cheek pinching and head patting and hair pulling and arm pinching and having their whole face squeezed inside a total stranger’s two cupped hands. They even tolerate being smothered by kisses now…..but we are still working with them to smile at the perpetrator when attacked spoken to. So, you see, even not-conducive-to-travelling personality traits can be “overcome”.


                                           (at the nearby stadium about to let off steam!)

horrific history

Monday, January 12th, 2009

by Rachael  
Phnom Penh, Cambodia

Reading Khmer Rouge survivor, Loung Ung’s book “FIRST THEY KILLED MY FATHER”, right here in the place where it was set.

Walking up the road to the school-turned-prison-turned-museum.

Standing in the classrooms-turned-cells (all it took was the addition of rudimentary brick walls and rough cattle-stall-like wooden ones).

Lingering on the red and white checkered tiles, unable to tear gaze from the torture bed and instruments.

Staring at gallows.

Touching the barbed wire.

Seeing the photos; old men, young men, little boys, an ancient lady, small girls, a mother with her baby on her lap…..photo after photo after photo, eyes burning out from faces, defiant or hopeless or fearful or angry or just blank.

Sheltering our children from paintings by a survivor, images we didn’t want them to see, not yet.

Thinking through an exhibition; agreeing, questioning, wondering, sighing.

repulsed at the evil
horrified at human behaviour
harrowing
sobering
saddening
the hurt is immense
the hatred cripples
the power of forgiveness is unimaginable
replaces numbness
dries tears
still, the faces haunt
there was nothing they could do
hundreds tortured and killed
every day
just up the road

But it wasn’t just the intentional murders. There were the side-effect deaths. Deaths due to disease, because all the trained medical staff had already been killed. Deaths of starvation as rice was traded for arms. Death as broken hearts stopped beating when loved ones failed to return home. Suicides of hopeless despair.

And it wasn’t just the deaths. There was the displacement of the entire urban population. There were the classes in this supposedly equal agrarian utopia.
There was the loss of culture, religion, education.
There was inhumanity. Brutality. Suspicion. Fear. Anger. Repression.
There was no justice.

Gunnar Bergstrom, one of the first and few foreigners invited to Cambodia after the Khmer Rouge came to power, visited in 1978. His photographs became part of the propaganda machine fed to the West. Thirty years later, with the benefit of hindsight illuminated by simple growing-up-maturity, life experience and the exposure of the Khmer Rouge atrocities, he gifted an exhibition, in an act of apology and forgiveness-seeking, to the Toul Sleng Genocide Museum, where it is now housed. The scenes with their accompanying captions of “Thoughts from 1978” and “Thoughts Now” provide an insightful window into this time in history, that must never be forgotten.

 

Such tragedy must be a lesson to us to stay alert, to consider the consequences of decisions (both personal and political), to arm ourselves with knowledge, to be wary of putting faith and trust in a system, to fight for freedom, to release slaves from bondage, to be aware.
Let us learn.
And subsequently, act.

Reading Loung Ung’s story, thumbing through other books at the bookshop (it is a well-documented tragedy), visiting the museum with its various exhibits, watching the movie “The Killing Fields” and visiting the fields themselves have provided us with a few days of harrowing history lessons.
It was not that long ago that it all happened.
Every person on the streets older than ourselves (and some younger) was affected.
And it continues around the world today; not Democratic Kampuchea’s Khmer Rouge, but injustice, slavery, torture, lack of freedom, lack of education, poverty, war, fear,  we’re-tired-of-hearing-about-it-famine, unnecessary sickness, hopelessness.

 

what’s with the rubbish everywhere?

Sunday, January 11th, 2009

by someone who tries to create as little waste as possible Phnom Penh, Cambodia

Do people not see it? Do they not care? Are they so used to dropping ... [Continue reading this entry]

fit for a king

Saturday, January 10th, 2009
from Jgirl14's journal Phnom Penh, Cambodia Years ago I had a durian lolly. It was bad enough to be spit straight out and put me off durian and all things related forever. Today, with Mr Lim's expert guidance, this changed. We met ... [Continue reading this entry]

Cambodian Birthday

Friday, January 9th, 2009

by Rachael Phnom Penh, Cambodia

A long time ago Pa told me that April is a very good luck month. In the Cambodian culture, New Year's always falls in April, which means that all the children born before New Year's ... [Continue reading this entry]

interrogation

Thursday, January 8th, 2009
by a lone female Phnom Penh, Cambodia He pulls out his red and white striped truncheon and with his other hand pointing down towards the ground, fingers scooping the air as if they're doggy-paddling, signals me to come closer. Great. It's the first ... [Continue reading this entry]

would you like to come for breakfast?

Wednesday, January 7th, 2009
by Rach Phnom Penh, Cambodia  We're just popping down to the market. We leave our guesthouse.....

and walk down the road. Nothing spectacular, just a fairly typical street.

[Continue reading this entry]

Cambodia Quiz

Tuesday, January 6th, 2009
by one who can't help but teach Phnom Penh, Cambodia You want to buy bread rolls. You look for:

two weeks together

Monday, January 5th, 2009

by a friend Phnom Penh, Cambodia 

we have experienced so much....

from bustling Bangkok to the unnerving border crossing, from the eerie grandeur of Angkor to the fire and the almost-stampede, from the even-busier-than-Bangkok Phnom Penh to Kampot, from dogs ... [Continue reading this entry]

*thankful*

Sunday, January 4th, 2009

by Rach Phnom Penh, Cambodia 

 

Today I am thankful for running water. For a toilet that flushes without you having to pour the water in from a bucket. For hot water coming from the shower. That most ... [Continue reading this entry]