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Gallipoli and the Anzac’s

Friday, August 22nd, 2008

My bus ride over to the base town for visiting the Gallipoli peninsula was around 5 hour long. I chatted to a lovely Turkish girl on the way who is studying English and off to visit her friends for the weekend. It was nice to be able to talk to a female for a change and interesting talking about Turkey and the future and the past. The country has had a crazy history and interesting now with becoming more modern and things. So it was a nice journey. Our bus drove onto a boat for the last bit and we crossed the Dardanelles to Cannakale.

I had booked into a hostel which unsurprisingly had a lot of Aussies there to visit Gallipoli, the town is also the base to see the historic site of Troy, however I gave that the chop as I have enough ruins to get me by. I went for a bit of a walk around the town before it got dark, a nice place, not really any tourists which was great and no one harrasing you to eat or buy stuff. I grabbed a pide (turkish pizza) for tea and spent the evening watching the Aussie movie Gallipoli with Mel Gibson at the hostel. I’ve never seen it before and while apparently its very bias it was a good way to get a bit more of an overview of the battles.

I booked in for a day tour of the peninsula with the hostel, as the area is too big to explore on foot and I thought it would be good to have someone explain. Obviously for Kiwis and Aussies, Gallipoli is a really important part of their history but also important for British and Turkish. So there was a bit of a mix on the tour but mostly Aussies. We had lunch included at a restaurant made for your groups then jumped on a our big air-con tour bus with our guide on the microphone…despite being everything I hated about traveling it turned out to be really good and our guide was able to explain lots of things. As we were fighting the Turkish I did wonder how a Turkish guide could be sympathetic towards Anzac troupes when they killed thousands of their own soldiers but he was really goof at explaining how lots of people died on both sides and the whole thing was a tragedy for everyone and really pointless in the end and its not really about who won or lost but that it was a terrible thing for all involved. One memorial had a quote about those allied troops who died now rest in a friendly country and they are important to Turkey and things. We visited the cemeteries of the soldiers as well as Anzac cove where the solider landed. A tiny strip of beach with an almost vertical cliff face, which was of course, the wrong beach to land at.

We saw the Aussie memorial as well as the kiwi one which was at Chunuk Bair, the highest point of the peninsula which was the aim to capture and the kiwi soldiers were the only ones who made it there. All the old trenches are still there and at some points they are only about 8 meters between the two sides. So during trench warfare basically you would just die, and thousands from both sides just went and were killed instantly.

During points of no fighting the Turkish and Anzac soldiers shared food and tobacco and had concerts. Its a strange way of thinking about that one day then killing each other the next. I am not normally very interested in war and things but this was very interesting and educational, it made me really proud to be a kiwi but also how terrible war is and how depressingly sad that we never learned from those 2 major wars. Altogether from both sides if you add up people killed on site and also after from injuries the total casualties was 500,000 over the 8month campaign. Terribly sad.

By the time we got back to the hotel it had been 6 hours so I had a rest and tried to get some sleep as my bus the following day left at 3am, towards Bulgaria which was I was hoping to get to in one day

cruises and goodbyes

Wednesday, August 20th, 2008

It had quickly come to the end of my time with mum, we had covered a lot of ground in 4 weeks and while moved quickly, we didnt see everything but we saw enough and some really cool things. Mum leaving was like the end of my first chapter of my trip. For our last full day we went on a cruise up the Bosphorus which is a stretch of water connecting the sea in Istanbul to the black sea. We got there nice and early to get a good seat on the 1.5 hour trip up to the end.

On the trip we went past lots of palaces and mosques along the water and lots of flash houses, some had little boats and had built parts to swim in. It was a really nice way to go down the river and we crossed over between Asia and Europe which is seperated by the Bosphorus as we pulled into ports along the way.

We ended up at a town at the end where we had 3 hours before returning to Istanbul. Pretty much there were just restaurants and the whole thing was set up for all the tourists on the boat. We tried to get away from the restuarants and tried walking along the water a bit, but most of the town was actually some sort of military camp so we were somewhat restricted. There is a fort thing up the hill and we walked a bit of the way but it was too hot so we gave up and had a drink at a cafe, we had seen enough ruins of buildings anyway. We did grab some cheap food before heading back onto the bus where we napped most of the way home. We went via the spice market home getting some yummy ice-cream and really good pistachio nougat stuff…it was all yum and lots of Turkish delight for sale as well, which funnily enough I haven’t had while being here.

Back home to recuperate before heading out to the Hammam, something mum has wanted to do the whole time, a hammam is like a bath house where you get body scrubbed and things. I am never that pumped about massages and saunas but it seems like the thing to do and the place we went to has been around for over 500 years so is an amazing building. Afterwards I was less than pumped, it cost a lot of money and unsure why I should pay to sweat lots and be really hot when I feel that hot sweaty most of the day and try to avoid it! Lying around on hot marble with lots of naked people getting scrubbed by a crazy old topless turkish women was not really my idea of a fun time. I felt pretty light headed afterwards after being so hot for so long, admittedly I did feel clean but not much more than having a cold shower after a hot day in the sun. But that is me, and lots of people enjoy the whole experience. Perhaps if it didn’t cost $50 it would be a bit better. But anyway feeling clean and scrubbed we got some corn and wandered back to the hotel to pack up our stuff, my bag feeling considerably lighter haing pawned stuff off to mum!

In the morning we woke up to hundreds of police walking the streets and barriers being put up everywhere, this had been happening for the last few days but this morning it was all go as today the Iranian president was coming to pray in the blue mosque which was right by our hotel. The security was unbelievable and every police officer and secret service must have been around us. Everywhere was people with guns blocking off roads and cars.

It was kind of a pain and mums airport shuttle couldn’t get into where we were so she had to walk for a bit. So mum left and I was once again alone and trying to make it to the bus station through the police who were blocking the way to get the tram to get to the bus station. I ended up walking up and down these streets for about 45 minutes to get to the tram which should normally take about 5minutes. I was hot and sweaty and def. not clean any more by the time I got there. A tram ride and a metro ride later I arrived at the main bus station minutes before my bus left on the 5 hour drive west to Cannakale for my last few days in Turkey.

Istanbul

Tuesday, August 19th, 2008
Our hostel in Istanbul wasn't exactly the nicest place to be spending 4 nights so we chopped it after one night and up graded to a nice place with our own room and bathroom. The hotel and backpackers area in ... [Continue reading this entry]

Kaş-our savıng grace

Saturday, August 16th, 2008
Getting to the town of Kaş was a bıt dıffıcult because all the buses were full, we had to change a couple of tımes and I was feel very average at this stage. Luckıly I was wıth mum  otherwise I ... [Continue reading this entry]

The european beach holıday

Friday, August 15th, 2008
I'm not one to make generalısatıons...well actully I am. But there ıs a stark contrast between the kıwı ıdeal of a beach holıday and the classıcal European one. Europeans seem to prefer the nıce, fancy organısed beach. Sun looungers set ... [Continue reading this entry]

cave dwellıngs

Monday, August 11th, 2008
Turkey ıs ımmedıately very dıfferent from the rest of the ME. Fırst of all ıts expensıve, damn expensıve after Syrıa. Really ıts about the same cost as home and cheaper ıf you were comıng from € countrıes. However for us ... [Continue reading this entry]

Border smugglıng

Saturday, August 9th, 2008
Our mega long day to Turkey began at 5am. Ever trustıng the lonely planet which said that buses across the border left between 5-8am we arrıved at the bus statıon at about 5.30am to fınd that actually all the buses ... [Continue reading this entry]

lazy days

Saturday, August 9th, 2008
Once recovered from our mega walk to the hotel we thought we better check out a lıttle bıt of the cıty, once the sun goes down and ıts not so hot walkıng around ıt not so tough. So we walked ... [Continue reading this entry]

I’m the king of the castle

Wednesday, August 6th, 2008
We found ourselves in a nice hotel in Hama, welcomed by more free tea which flows freely everywhere. Its strong and sweet and asking for milk is a huge no-no, I am actually starting to like it though and even ... [Continue reading this entry]

The Romans were everywhere

Wednesday, August 6th, 2008
Well it seems the Romans really did get around, from Egypt we have seen the remains of Roman occupation everywhere and same in Syria. In the morning after recovering from our Beirut ordeal we jumped on a cheap bus to ... [Continue reading this entry]