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compleating the trans-siberian

Friday, November 14th, 2008

So came the end of our Mongolia trip. 2 weeks, mostly spent out in the country side…which really is most of the country. Pretty much UB is the only city in the country with the rest being mostly the odd Ger dotted around and a few towns. The food wasn’t as bad as I thought as I was able to eat happily every day by picking out the bits of floating mutton. However I was keen for a bit of spice and flavour which I was expecting from China.

Once we arrived back to our guest house I was just way too tired to cope with doing anything. After showering and washing some clothes (so dirty….) I watched BBC and we ordered pizza to be delivered. So lazy! Turns out I should have gone to change money as I am now stuck with about $15 of useless tugregs (Mongolian currency) which I can’t change in China. I am really keen to come back to Mongolia to see more of the country and try to do something where you spend a bit more time with local people as most places we stayed we didn’t have that much contact with the families. Although from speaking to a few people who did family stays it sounds a bit intense, as in slaughtering the animals and preparing it…might have to train myself to like mutton before then.

I think in the summer it would be good to come back and take a tent and go camping and hitchhiking around as there is not really anything as private land so camping is the best way to do it. Paulin the french guy we had meet in Russia was pretty much doing this, although he is much more hardcore than I could ever be. Him and another guy were trekking and hitchhiking through the snow and finding Ger’s along the way which would take them in. Randomly we came across them in one of these towns along the way were they were waiting for a lift. Very funny to see someone you actually know in the middle of Mongolia!

Our train for China was leaving the morning after we arrived at 8am. So we just got ourselves together and went to bed, thankfully picking up our passports compleate with Chinese visa’s. The train in the morning was another forcibly expensive train in 2nd class. A big train this time, lots of foreigners but all spread out and we were the only foreigners in our carriage. The train ride took us back south through the Gobi then a long drawn out border crossing where they had to change all the wheels (or whatever trains have) as Russian/Mongolian trains have a different gauge than China so every carriage has to be lifted up and changed. It was around 5 hours in the middle of the night at the border before heading off into China, we arrived in Beijing at 2pm the following day and in the morning had great views of the Great Wall as we followed it along for a bit then through some amazing mountains. Beijing started far before we arrived into the station and high rise apartment buildings and highways lined the tracks. Finally pulling into the station we stepped out into the amazingly warmer Beijing air and went head first into the mass of people that is China.

Goodbye Russia

Thursday, November 6th, 2008

From Olkhon Island it was another long 7 hour journey back into Irkutsk where we picked up our passports (complete with Mongolia visa!) and made use of the rest of the day which was an amazing 16 degrees (the warmest since Lithuania). I had a wander around the big food market where I picked up some vege’s for dinner. I really love shopping in markets, it’s so cool and such a great way to buy stuff, its like real life, all these people out buying food from the same old lady...it’s a fun time. There were lots of old babushka’s with tiny tables just selling a handful of goods, like a couple of tomatoes and a few bunches of herbs. I brought my vege’s off a friendly lady who even had a semi conversation with me about where I was from (in sign language of course). It was fun.

On the way out you could also get your photo taken with giant taxidermy bears….part of Russians strange obsession with bears. Back at the hostel there were loads more people around and we cooked dinner and hung out for a bit until bed. The next day was our last day in Russia before our train later that night, crazy to think how the month went by so fast and a little bit sad as after a month you kind of get a handle on how things work, although in Russia its pretty much impossible, but you do learn a few things, then it’s time to leave again, off to a new country with a whole new set of rules and customs. Of course it was freezing our last day, like glacier cold so didn’t get up to too much, just did a few jobs, did some train shopping and managed to track down some Russian dolls to buy (souvenirs basically don’t exist after Moscow).

Then we were packed up and headed off to the train station to meet up with Janinna, Juliet, Paulon, plus half our hostel and a whole lot more backpackers on the train. Actually the ‘train’ to UB was really only a carriage, about 70% westerners, the carriage got attached to lots of different trains over the course of the 36 hour train journey.

So it was time to leave Russia…I feel like I could write a whole book on thoughts about Russia and travelling there, perhaps one day I will. But for now here are a few thoughts….

Russian oddities

Fashion

Although the boys tend to disagree with me on this one, every single female traveler I have met has always pointed it out or thought the same. Basically most girls in Russian dress….well like prostitutes, OK maybe not most girls, and maybe not quite like prostitutes but leaning that way. Pretty much everyone wears high heeled boots, and not just normal boots like knee and thigh high patent shiny leather boots, with mini skirts. And jackets that are so shiny and tacky they could be made from plastic backs. Then there’s the fur which is rather practical for the weather but just all so tacky, I mean whole white fun coats are just not cool. So you see why guys like it, they can check out all the girls in their tight clothes. And I guess its not too bad for most of the girls who are all tall and thin and beautiful but problems really start when the above 40’s start to urmm…express themselves with tight, tight clothing. The further you get away from St P’s the less classy it is and more tacky. Its all just a bit strange and seems to be way to much effort for every day wear, I mean stiletto boots down to the grocery store??

Queues

Like many non-western countries, queuing is not something that is ingrained in society, Mc Donalds was apparently the first place to teach Thai’s how to queue and the Chinese have been getting lessons in the lead up to the Olympics. Russia seems to be trying to get crowds to queue but in fact have the worst queuing systems ever invented, I mean even in management science 101 I learned more about queuing. Its odd. Most queues form sideways, along the counter, which eventually runs out of space, or there is no queue and pushing. Or there is 3 different places to queue to get a tickets to give to someone to get some then to pay for it. Lots of time the queues are just set up badly leaving little room for people to actually wait, only opening one ticket window at a time or not setting it up so people can actually use all the ticket windows. And one people make it to the front of the queue because they have waited so long they will make sure they ask every question and make full use of the service making queuing a long drawn out process. Queuing is a surprisingly strange process in Russia

Old ladies

Pretty much old ladies or ‘babushkas’ rule Russia. Whatever they want, they get. You can always tell a babushka because of her stooped walk, angry face, with a head scarf and always carrying two plastic bags full of stuff. They push in front of you in every queue possible, push you out of the way to get pasty, steal your bed in the train or sleep all day on the bed you’re supposed to sit in. As you can tell by the end of Russia we no longer like old women

Photo’s

People love to take photos of themselves in Russia, particularly girls. Everywhere you go are groups of chicks posing for each other in photos. So you can kind of fit in as a tourist taking photos everywhere. Although it is a little weird, all these girls full on posing with these weird angry faces I guess trying to look ‘good’ or something. People also like to dress up and go do photo shoots of themselves in parks and things, in the typical cheesy style, twirling under leaves, leaning seductively against a tree…its all a bit weird. Wedding photos are even stranger as we arrived in the wedding month so every city from St P’s to Irkutsk had wedding parties having photos shoots in public spaces, the groom never really having anything to do with it, always just stuck in the photo as an afterthought while the bride is always in her element. Its all strange

Other bizarre things are the useless traffic management system, a strange tendency to continue building ugly cold war apartment blocks while over half the city still has unfinished buildings…and well about a million other things. Russia is definitely an interesting place to travel in and while it was hard I did really enjoy it and keen to fight the visa bureaucracy once more

Trans-Sib part one: The real journey begins

Thursday, October 9th, 2008

Moscow? Nyet…

Wednesday, October 1st, 2008

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(St Basil's Cathedral) Nyet (No) seems to be Russian service people’s favourite word. Particularly at train stations where we write in Cyrillic what we want and hand it over, waiting in ... [Continue reading this entry]

The motherland

Monday, September 29th, 2008

My travels around Eastern Europe have felt like they are preparing me for the ultimate country of Russia. As the whole point of this trip was the trans-Siberian it was exciting to be ... [Continue reading this entry]