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and finally…the Pyramids!

Saturday, July 26th, 2008

I had another night in Dahab before heading back to Cairo to meet Mum, it was also Brian’s last night so we meet up and watched a bit of fightclub at one of the bars then both headed to bed as we were shattered from the climb the night before. I said goodbye in the morning as he headed off to Jordan and I jumped on a 9 hour bus ride back to Cairo. So ended our group, great to have good people to travel with but time to go separate ways and move into the next part of my trip with my lovely mother.

I didn’t arrive in Cairo till late at night, and mum didn’t fly in till 3am so I saw her briefly when she got in but soon fell asleep enjoying my first night with air-conditioning. Our hostel is on the 5th floor of this big old building with the most old school elevator of all time, literally straight from the 18th century, I cannot believe how it keeps going, but a you can see its very cool looking. It just goes straight up the middle of the stair well, crazy times

(our amazingly old but still working hostel lift)

That morning we headed off to do what everyone does in Egypt, go see the Pyramids! We took the metro half way then ended up in a taxi with possibly the only driver in Cairo who didn’t know where the pyramids were, a lot of asking questions and suddenly, there they were! The pyramids are actually in Cairo, like in the city, not in some huge dessert in the middle of nowhere, so out from being apartment buildings and hotels the points of them stick out in a kind of surreal way.

We somehow managed to come in a back entrance avoiding getting scammed by anyone, I had heard of people ending up paying stupid amounts for guides and camels but all we had to pay was the relatively cheap entrance fee. It was hot, but not as hot as Aswan or the Luxor and they were amazing, more amazing than some monuments which are a bit disappointing in real life. We could climb up a bit of the way on the big one then wandered around the are looking at the 2 smaller ones and the sphinx, luckily it wasn’t too busy which was nice. We spent a couple of hours taking the required cheesy photos and being amazed at the enormity of them. They really were very cool.

Afterward we wandered around the streets a bit more grabbing some bread straight out of the oven then the most dangerous taxi ride ever with a driver intent on crashing his car. Luckily we made it and after a break from the heat at our hotel we walked down to see the Egyptian museum, which unlike the Pyramids, was busy-very very busy. But definitely worth seeing. All the empty tombs from Luxor had their contents here in the museum and the coolest of all, everything from king tut’s tomb including the famous death mask made from gold. It was all really amazing to see the detail and effort put into burying kings and royalty. The mummy goes inside about 4 different coffins then another 5 different box things, then inside a huge tomb with lots of stuff, gold and pots and tables and everything else you can think of. Very interesting and things are amazingly well preserved.

The other things were cool, lots of old old old things from all around the place, eventually it gets all similar, you know just another 2000 year old mummy, so we headed back home then out for a quick bite to eat, nice and cheap-around $2.50 for huge plates of falafel, bread, eggplant and salads. We then jumped in a taxi to see the Islamic area and market which I saw on my first time in the city. We wandered around the stalls almost getting talked into to buying plastic pyramids with glitter, but just couldn’t do it. Its really nice in the evening as lots of people are out and its nice and cool.

Mum of course had to see the Nile so we headed down there to see if we could get on a felucca for a short cruise. The river was packed with disco part boats, full of Egyptians, sitting calmly with terrible arab pop blaring from speakers and flashing lights all over the boat, it was incredible that anyone would actually pay to go on one. We found a plain felucca with no lights and negotiated a 30 minute cruise which ended up meaning we crossed to the other side then came back again. It was weird, I guess there wasn’t really any wind so we couldn’t go anywhere, but it was really very strange and we pretty much got ripped off. But we saw the Nile!

So a huge day with mum and packed lots into one day, Cairo was as busy and dirty as I remembered but good to be around some real culture after Dahab….however once getting mum the next day we headed back to Dahab for a few nights before crossing to Jordan

Cairo 101

Monday, July 14th, 2008

Don’t stop and talk to anyone

Just cross the road, even if there are 100 cars coming towards you

Ignore every second guy saying “hello lovely” to you

Find a good felafel shop

Cairo is a pretty intense city, when flying in, our plane flew over the Saudi peninsula, never ending sand and dirt, then Cairo just seems to appear in the middle of it all, pretty much the same colour as there is very little green anywhere. Once we touched down and I fought off the taxi drivers I managed to find myself on a bus heading to town (I hoped). People were actually really friendly and the lady who sat next to me gave me her phone number in case I got lost. Of course I did get lost once I got off the bus to find my hotel, people were no longer that friendly and just watched with amusement as some stupid western girl lugged around her pack looking for a hotel. Eventually atfer around half an hour I stumbled across my hostel. It was in a big old building on the 5th floor, to get up you took the oldest craziest looking elevator I have ever seen, like something from the 18th century.

After getting myself together and halving a shower I headed out in search of something interesting. I was dressed ‘appropriately’ which means long pants and long sleeves like most of the women here. Probably around 70% of women wear headscarves with a few in full burkhers, so I was going to stand out no matter what. I took the surprisingly clean and efficient metro out to get a train ticket for the following day. Luckily there are ‘ladies only’ carriages which avoid you been squashed in with too many guys wanting to talk to you. I got a train ticket without too much hassle down to Aswan for the following night (overnight in 1st class and only $20) and then went to visit the Coptic churches which are all very old, quite interesting and an important part of Egypt culture.

I also got my first taste of the package tourism that dominates Egypt.

It’s not hard to travel independently in Egypt, just most people don’t, so things reflect that. Like the ‘tourist center’ in Cairo is not different from any other area, just there are some hotels hiding away. I never actually saw any other tourists around where our hotel is and unlike tourist centers in places like Thailand there aren’t internet cafe’s and travel agents lining the streets, simply because 99% of people are on a package holiday. The only time I ever see tourists is at major tourist attractions where (despite it being low season) rows of giant air conditioned buses line up to let a group off for 30 minutes. Because of the heat most are dressed in overtly skimpy outfits, lots I saw would be inappropriate at home. They they take photos and buy over-priced goods then get back on their bus and go to their hotel. I am not saying that I am much better, I mean, I still am just another tourist but really, it is unbelievable how disrespectful some people are and how far from reality these tours seem to be. And its the same all over Egypt, things really just not set up for independent travellers. However in saying that its not hard to get things done, its just not immediately obvious. And I think its worth the little bit extra effort and definitely cheaper to go it alone

Anyway after seeing a few churches and things I went back and ended up napping all afternoon in front of the fan. I was woken up by Alice a french girl staying in my room who had come to study Arabic for the summer. Now it was late and finally cooling down (though still around 25 degrees all evening) we went and drank juice and smoked shesha down in an alleyway cafe. We also meet some other American’s doing the same thing and staying up late talking and smoking. A lovely way to spend the evening.

The following day I went to check out the Islamic area (although really, it all seems to be Islamic) and saw some mosques and lots of markets. Generally a lot of people trying to rip you off and a few more bus loads of tourists wandering aimlessly.


Again more harassment but never anything too bad and easy to ignore. Its all crazy busy and noisy with mosques and cars and horns and animals and people. Pretty intense so spent the rest of the day reading . I grabbed some food with Alice then headed to the train station for the 15 hour journey down south to the even hotter Aswan. Unfortunately I was sharing the train with 30 or so French 16 year olds who insisted on talking all night and congregating in my cabin then taking photos of me when they though I was sleeping. 15 hours later I was very very tired and angry and glad to get off the train and into Aswan