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Dali-more old towns and city walls

Saturday, December 6th, 2008

Apparently the bus ride from Shangri-la to Dali is beautiful but I slept most of the way, just waking up as we approached the lake which Dali is close to, driving round the lake was nice with green fields and big mountains. I jumped off the bus close to Dali old town, as the bus heads into the 20km away Dali real town. Ignoring offers of taxis I decided to try to walk to my hostel, getting hopelessly lost of course and trying to figure out whether I was actually inside or outside the city walls.

(Dali city walls)

Eventually I made to the ‘Jade Emu’ hostel, brand new and run by a Aussie/Chinese couple, an excellent place with an amazing ensuite bathroom on the dorm, best shower I’ve ever had and they even give you towels and shampoo! Plus lots of books, movies and just a generally great place.

Recovering from my mission to get there I hung out at the hostel fom the afternoon making use of fee internet and dvd’s and sharing hotpot with an American guy for dinner. For only 15 yuan you can get hotpot at the hostel with unbelievable amounts of food, good times indeed and a bit less spicy than the last one. My next full day I did what I usually do in new places, wandered around and ate food….saw the city walls, lots of shops, lots of tourists. I like Dali a lot better than Lijang, still lots of tourists but a bit more ‘real’ feeling, as in not only existing for tourists. Its more laid back and in beautiful location with big hills behind it.


So after eating and shopping I headed back to the hostel where I met up with Ian in my room and we grabbed some dinner in town and walked around the streets for a few hours before bed time.When I was driving in to Dali we went through some really nice green fields between the hills and the lake so I hired a bike for the day and set off on what turned out to be a bit of an epic 7 hour bike ride. I just kept biking and then eventually realised I had to get back still which was a lot harder with a head wind. By the end I was over it, but the first part was great, biking through green vegetable fields, saw the huge 3 pagodas, lots of other people cruising around on bikes. Really relaxed and nice and went through a few villages.


 On the way back I went down the main road which was a bit flatter, this was a lot more busy with lots of buses and cars going back and of course a head wind. Finally I made it back exhausted but at least having done some exercise! The hostel was doing another hotpot and this time there were a load of people including the owner so we had a massive dinner with never ending food, it was great!My bus to Jinghong was leaving the following night and after my mega ride the day before I just relaxed for the day, I went out for lunch with Ian and we sat in the sun and wandered around a bit, then it was time to leave, another night sleeping bus with too small beds, for 15 hours south again to Jinghong, my final China destination

finding my Shangri-la

Friday, December 5th, 2008

Shangri-La was first a fictional place described in the 1933 novel Lost Horizon by British author James Hilton. It was a mythical Himalayan paradise where everyone was happy and things were sweet. Since then Shangri-la ha been used as a term for travelers to describe their perfect holiday spots, and also become a international hotel chain. Clever China thought if they renamed a small Tibetan town in Yunnan from Zongdian to the more interesting Shangri-la, then more tourists would go. It worked and I was on a bus heading to north to just-about-Tibet, the ‘real’ Shangri-la.

Shangri-la is mostly Tibetan, and was as close as I was going to get this trip to the real thing. And well, it seemed pretty much like Tibet to me. There is an old town with cobbled-stone streets and a temple on a hill overlooking the town. Its freezing cold and at high altitude, so showering is difficult as the pipes freeze and there is no water. When I arrived it was late and dark and didn’t quite make it to the hotel I wanted. But decided to stay anyway. Dead quiet being low season there is really no tourists around, and definitely no western ones.

The hostel was OK, basic and cold, no doors on the toilets. I ended up moving the following morning to  place which was very similar (but with toilet doors) but I ran into Claire who I had hung out with in Kunming, who was unfortunately just leaving but had breakfast with her in the sun before her bus. Once she had gone I had the whole dorm room to myself which was a bit strange to be in a room alone.

(Local women dressed in colourful clothing)

I ended up with 3 nights in Shangri-la and spent a lot of time wandering the streets with monks and women dressed in colourful local clothing. The old town is packed with little cafes and restaurants which I spent a bit of time in. The square in the middle is full during the day of women selling grilled veges on sticks. In the evening the square turns into this strange communal dancing space. I stumbled upon this my first night thinking it was a once off but no, every night speakers are cranked out and for hours people come and go dancing this dance that every one knows in a big circle. There are old women, kids, teenagers, parents with kids on their backs, old men shuffling round, tourists trying to copy the others. Its pretty cool to watch and it just goes on for so long, with everyone knowing what to do even though the dance and music changes all the time. At some point the music ends and people disperse as though nothing ever happened.

(Dancers n the main square)

One of the major sights in town is the big monastery,about an hours walk through town. On the way I walked through the town beyond the old town, which was nice to see the rest of the place. A bit busier, lots of people selling things and shops packed. The wind is freezing and once the sun goes down its deathly cold but when the sun is high its very hot. So a strange combination of beings really hot and really cold all the time. Once I made it to the monastery entrance I took a bus over the hill to the huge complex which built over a hill.

Even from the distance it is beautiful, a massive area with huge temples on the top. At the entrance way are colourful women selling jewellery, prayer beads and local costumes. You can even sit on a real yak and get your photo taken.

Inside I climbed all the way to the top of the stairs, to the temples on top. The place is beautiful and over 300 years old with 600 monks living there. You can’t take photos inside the temples which is unfortunate because inside is the stuff which travel photographers seek out, young monks in crimson robes lighting butter candles in dark corners, old monks with missing teeth and wrinkled faces chanting from ancient scrolls piled in front of them while spinning silver prayer wheels. Teenage monks are sitting in the sun drinking pepsi, their camo clothing under their robes showing through. Old women with wind burnt red cheeks dressed in pink and blue. It’s a very cool place and with only a handful of chinese tourists.

I wandered through the temples with are filled with giant gold Buddhas and prayer flags and down some little side streets before making back down to the front and them back into town.I had brought a ticket for a 9am bus to Dali, so after 3 days of checking out monks, eating brownie and vege’s on sticks I jumped on the 8 hour bus back down south to warmer weather, but now even more determined to get to Tibet proper…next trip I guess.

Tiger Leaping Gorge

Monday, December 1st, 2008
This 2 day trek through a gorge close to Lijang has become one of China's top things to do. And its not for Chinese tourists either, there is no paved road and music, just a gorge and a path. I ... [Continue reading this entry]

Kunming to Lijang

Saturday, November 29th, 2008
Kunming was my 4th Chinese city so I was a bit over it and keen to get into the rural areas quicker. It is a pretty nice city though and if it was the first place I had been I ... [Continue reading this entry]

Holy mountains with fist fights

Saturday, November 29th, 2008
Our final days in Chengdu we decided to get active and headed off bright an early to climb Mt Qingchensan, a nearby holy Taoist mountain. Now when I say climb, I don't really mean climb, more like walk. As with ... [Continue reading this entry]

Why panda’s are the worlds most useless animals

Wednesday, November 26th, 2008
Chengdu is very famous for panda's, basically the only remaining wild ones live close by and there is a big panda breeding center in the city. The government has thrown a lot of money into panda breeding the last few ... [Continue reading this entry]

Sichuan spice

Wednesday, November 26th, 2008

So my train to Chengdu wasn't nearly as flash as the one to Xian, same class but just a bit crappier. I was settling in for a long night of train crazy-ness, which is a bit more crazy than ... [Continue reading this entry]

Xian and the terracotta warriors

Saturday, November 22nd, 2008
Sometimes things are famous for the sake of being famous, much like many 'famous' paintings, statues, buildings etc, I have often wondered, why, out of all the things there are, is this particular thing famous? I mean why is the ... [Continue reading this entry]

Sight seeing madness

Tuesday, November 18th, 2008
The rest of our days in Beijing we saw a lot. We actually began to get up early and ever got back till after dinner after massive days of sightseeing. its actually amazing how long the days really are when ... [Continue reading this entry]

The Great Wall…and not-so-great transport

Monday, November 17th, 2008
Of course being in China there are a few things which are 'must see's', the most obvious being The Great Wall (TGW). It is one of the new wonders of the world as well so I can add it to ... [Continue reading this entry]