BootsnAll Travel Network



Christmas Cheer: Rice Wine in a Khmu Village

December 31st, 2006

trek.jpgThe trek began Christmas eve from the northern Lao town of Luang Namtha. Almost immediately there was a steady climb, but it felt really good to be out on a single-track trail again. For my Alaskan friends, it was much like the Fuller Lakes trail in pitch and scenery.

The Lao government, in partnership with New Zealand, has protected this region as a park and a cultural heritage/preservation area. To visit the villages contained within, you had to go through this partnership program. The fee was minimal, and in exchange, you had 2 local guides, permission from the villages to visit, a bamboo/thatch building to sleep in, meals, and a chance to observe a way of life that hasn’t changed much for a few hundred years. Read the rest of this entry »

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The Vang Vieng Veg Part 2: Lao Women and Falaang Men

December 16th, 2006

vv2.jpgAfter a day of kickin’ back, hiking and caving I headed off to dinner and then on the walk back to the guest house came across a bar with a pool table. Well, it was really too early to go to bed and one of the guys playing was an Israeli that I had met several times in Viet Nam; the other was a Croatian guy i had met on the bus.

Naturally, I stopped by for a beer and a game or two. All well and good.

The Canadian couple I tubed with the day before also came in. It seems that a nice and relaxed evening would unfold. Soon afterwards, the older Swede gentleman (see the previous post) and his young Lao girlfriend also came in. Naturally, I went over to chat with them. Read the rest of this entry »

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Vang Vieng, Lao:A Snatch Shot of the Vang Veg

December 15th, 2006

vv.jpgOk…more about the title of this section later. You’re just going to have to read on.

Vang Vieng is one of the weirdest-strange towns i have been in so far.

As you can tell by clicking on the link above, the scenery is quite stunning. To the west, there are these limestone cliffs that dominate the view from the village. And between the karsts and the city runs the Nam Song – the Song River.

With the anticipation of many rave tales of V V, I arrived in town around 7 PM and it was already dark. I had my mind set on a particular guest house (stunning pictures taken from the balcony in one of my guide books) and it took 20 minutes or so to find it. Considering that you can walk around the whole town in about 15 minutes, not an impressive hunt by yours truly. I had been traveling for 3 days, so I am well prepared with excuses. Read the rest of this entry »

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Waiting for My (Wo)Man

December 10th, 2006

vn.jpgWith 126,000 dong in my hand…

(All apologies to Lou Reed and the Velvet Underground)

Most all of the towns I have visited so far cater to tourists of course. The average wage for most Vietnamese is about $5 a day, and that is if he/she is working a job, rather than laboring in the fields.

So, many people sell trinkets and other assorted items and services to us. It’s a way to make a dong, especially if the mark doesn’t barter.

Here in Sapa, the nearby Hmong and Dzao hill tribes come in and sell local handicrafts (and chinese-made items that resemble these goods). Most are women. The grannies are a hard sell – even tougher than the little kids. Bartering is good fun.

Come dark, the Hmong have other items to sell: marijuana, hashhish, and opium. In other parts of Viet Nam it’s the moto-taxi drivers or the cigarette vendors who offer a connection. Read the rest of this entry »

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Sapa by Motor Bike

December 9th, 2006

sapa.jpgAdventure changed to trouble when I rounded the bend of a narrow road that had long ago turned to a sloppy single track of red mud.

Down in the valley below and barely visible through the mist was Sapa. I had taken my rented motorbike down a dirt road some 4 hours ago and was tired, hungry and thirsty. Having Sapa, in my sights was temptation with a capital ‘T’.

And as the song goes, that stands for trouble.

The town is in the most hilly/mountainous section of northern Viet Nam and the trail I took hugged the side of a steep valley of terraced rice paddies and vegetable gardens.

There is one paved road that runs through Sapa, and on my first day here, Dave, Jonna and I headed west towards Fansipan, a nearby 3143 meter mountain.

The very narrow road was twisty and turn-y with lots of ascents and descents – perfect fun for a motorcycle. Part of the experience was dodging potholes, goats, pigs, water buffalo, and on-coming trucks. Read the rest of this entry »

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Ha Long Bay/Ca Ba Island

December 5th, 2006

halong.jpgI’ve just returned from a 3 day visit to one of the more spectacular places I’ve seen so far – Ha Long Bay.

On the first day, I boarded a boat (a junk-style house boat) and we set out for the bay. We had dinner on the boat and anchored up and spent the night afloat. Despite the cool weather we also went for swim.

I kinda like the age that I’m at. I’m still young enough to jump off of the top deck of the junk – some 25′ above the water (when two 21-year-old Aussie girls did it, there was no way I was not going to jump); but sensible enough to be the first one out of the bay and into the showers while the water was still hot.

The next day we went to Ca Ba Island. Read the rest of this entry »

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Bia Ho’i

December 5th, 2006

bia.jpgMost street corners in Hanoi (and most other Vietnamese towns) have Bia Ho’i, or fresh beer stands. A glass costs about 2-3 thousand dong and it’s 16 thousand dong to the dollar- a lot of beer for a buck!

The beer goes down easy. Too easy. And it’s been a great experience to sit on plastic kindergarden-sized chairs and watch the world go by. The Xe-oms (hugger bikes, the VN name for motos) whiz by just inches away. Read the rest of this entry »

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Ha Noi’d

November 30th, 2006

hanoicop.jpgI was lucky to have an entire seat to myself on the 13 hour bus ride from Hue to Ha Noi. The seats are built to the SE Asian average body size and it is quite impossible to fit my legs under the reclining back of the one in front of me. Even a bottle of Dalat’s finest wine couldn’t induce sleep however. But that’s not the fault of the bus – it’s always been difficult for me to sleep in a bus or plane. Read the rest of this entry »

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Suitable Hoi An

November 26th, 2006

suit.jpgSometimes I do wonder just what in the hell I am doing.

I’ve been in Hoi An in Central Vietnam for just over 24 hours and I just came from the final fitting for 2 suits I had custom-made.

Damn, Jim. You live in Alaska. You are retired. You want to be a be a ski and kayak bum for the rest of your life.

2 Suits? Read the rest of this entry »

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Moto-City Madness

November 21st, 2006

Saigon has some 4-6 million motorbikes and it’s really the most effecient way to get around the city. The little suckers dart everywhere and can come at you from any direction – even if you are walking on the sidewalk (if you can find a stretch that doesn’t have motos parked). Although it first seems quite chaotic – well it still seems more than a bit chaotic – it all does work. Most streets do not have lights or stop signs, so traffic just pushes through…those turning get over to the side they are turning, those going straight ahead just keep on keeping on. Read the rest of this entry »

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