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The Painted Desert, the Petrified Forest and Route 66 (Arizona)

Sunday, May 22nd, 2011

May 6th

Our first glimpse of the Painted Desert was from the Grand Canyon. Far off in the distance, you could see the pink, blue and yellow tinted sands. We arrived in the park early in the morning when the light was soft and the colors less intense, but the effect was the same. Where did these amazing colors come from? Our visit of the park took us through a desert landscape, then blue cliffs, and finally to the petrified forest where chunks of petrified wood was scattered over the land. The grand finale was a dense area of whole petrified logs. The old Route 66 once passed through the park. Now, all you can see are telephone poles that follow its old route (it’s been replaced by the highway in many areas now.)

The Petrified Forest lies on the border of the Navajo Nation, the largest Indian Reservation in the United States. We drove up to see the Hubbell Trading Post, a historic landmark. This is still an active trading post with a shop selling food supplies as well as handicrafts and rugs. The surrounding property was once part of the Hubbell ranch, including the barns, the home and an interesting hexagonal guest house. 

After a long day’s drive, we were planning to camp in a state park in New Mexico. I called ahead to make sure it was open and that there was space. Everything seemed in order, but when we arrived (using our trusty GPS as a guide the entrance was closed (with a sign saying that it would reopen Memorial Day.) We had obviously taken the wrong entrance, but couldn’t find the main entrance. (The park lies on a large lake, and we ended up on a dirt road that skirted the lake through some private property.) Tired and feeling slightly defeated, we decided to drive back to the highway and look for another cheap “Route 66” motel. We found one in Grant, an old Uranium mining town that had seen better days. I even negotiated the price of the hotel down $5, a rarity in the U.S.

Recovery and Ruins (Flagstaff region)

Tuesday, May 17th, 2011

May 4th-May 5th

On the road back to Flagstaff, we made a stop-off at Sunset Volcano. Though are legs were still aching from the early morning climb out of the Grand Canyon, we decided it would better to stretch them again after the long drive before turning in for a lazy evening. The volcano crater reminded us of our visit to Mt. Etna, with its black lava sand and visible lava flows. The Native Americans living near the volcano when it erupted more than 1,000 years ago, believed that it was a great spiritual force.

Back to civilization, we slept in a warm bed for the first time in a week. We also went out to a steakhouse buffet for dinner. The next morning, we woke up with a mission: oil change, grocery shopping, calling the parents, laundry…all by noon. We even had time to do some sightseeing in Flagstaff. We visited a beautiful house built by two brothers who made their fortunes in the timber industry and helped build Flagstaff. The two houses were joined in the middle by an enormous recreation room, complete with a 19th century billiards table, bear rugs and a cozy salon. It was here that we also learned about how Arizona’s budget crisis is affecting the state parks system. This site has lost most of its funding and now depends on private donations and fundraising to keep its doors open. We’ve seen numerous unfortunate examples like these while traveling the country.

East of Flagstaff, we stopped at Walnut Canyon national monument. This was another site of prehistoric Sinaguan cliff dwellings. This time we were able to hike down into the canyon to a path that led us past many of the dwellings. What surprised us was the fact that the inhabitants always built the fires inside and the only entrance/exit of the space was through the roof. It must have been very smoky in such a small space. The hike in and out required climbing quite a few stairs- and Fabien and I whizzed past a number of people. As in all of the parks, there were a lot of warning signs about the “strenuous” nature of the trail. Unfortunately, it seems that the average American isn’t physically able to do a lot of these trails.

Our day’s journey ended in Holbrook, a small town on the old Route 66, just outside the Petrified Forest National Park. We found a cheap motel, the Desert Sands, perfect on our budget and offering a little 70’s era charm.

A Most Inspiring Hole, Grand Canyon National Park

Tuesday, May 17th, 2011
April 29th-May 4th The drive from Flagstaff to the Grand Canyon was across a flat plateau and relatively uneventful except for the views of snow-capped San Francisco Mountains behind us. There was no hint of what was to come. We entered ... [Continue reading this entry]

Flagstaff, Arizona (Gateway to the Grand Canyon)

Friday, May 13th, 2011
April 28th-29th After the beautiful drive up from Sedona, we arrived in Flagstaff mid-afternoon. We planned a short one-night stopover in Flagstaff before going to the Grand Canyon. One of the sights we wanted to see was the Lowell Observatory, a ... [Continue reading this entry]

Exploring the Sedona Region, Arizona

Friday, May 13th, 2011
April 25th- April 28th We based our visit of the Sedona Region out of Dead Horse Ranch State Park, an unappealing name for a very pretty park. As we drove in through the cottonwood trees, we were impressed by the sea ... [Continue reading this entry]

6 Mai : forêt pétrifié et désert coloré !

Thursday, May 12th, 2011
Nous quittons notre motel datant d'une autre époque pour retrouver l'autoroute qui continue à causer la perte de ces établissements. Quelques kilomètres plus à l'est, un nouveau parc national : Petrified Forest National Park. En plein désert, on se demande ... [Continue reading this entry]

5 Mai : la routine et quelques visites au coeur de l’Arizona

Thursday, May 12th, 2011
Nous commençons la journée par une multitude de tâches : changement de l'huile de la voiture, shopping, et lavage du linge. Comme d'habitude, cela prend du temps et la journée ne démarre réellement qu'après le dejeuner avec la visite d'une ... [Continue reading this entry]

4 Mai : Flagstaff, le retour

Thursday, May 12th, 2011
Après notre petite semaine au Grand Canyon, nous décidons finalement de sortir du parc par l'est pour prendre la route vers le sud et Flagstaff où nous étions déjà passés à l'aller. Nous remarquons que notre route vers l'ouest n'est ... [Continue reading this entry]

Stopover in Phoenix

Friday, May 6th, 2011
April 24th-25th It was a relatively quick trip on the highway between Tucson and Phoenix, so we decided to take a detour to see the Casa Grande National Monument. We actually didn’t have any idea what it was until we got ... [Continue reading this entry]

29 Avril – 4 Mai : notre expérience du Grand Canyon

Friday, May 6th, 2011
Arrivée en milieu d'après midi au Grand Canyon, nous a permis de nous installer et de prendre connaissance des possibilités de randonnées: en effet, pour pouvoir randonner sur plusieurs jours, il faut se produrer un permis qui peut se commander ... [Continue reading this entry]