PACE

Archive for October, 2006

Mexico Part 1

Thursday, October 26th, 2006

I flew from Madrid to Cancun and crashed out for 2 days to adjust. Cancun was just a crazy place where everyone gets massivly inebriated at these huge clubs. The beaches, however, are worth it. I got out of there as quick as I could and headed for Isle Mujeres – a backpackers Cancun, according to the guidebook.

This place was really really laid back. Cheap hostels and a calm beach with crystal clear teal waters and a nice little backpacker social that communed on the local beach bar every night. Chilled out here a few days enjoying a few Coronas and some good Mexican food. Hooked up with 2 crazy Ozzies who had just got down from California and were surfing around Cali and Baja California, as well as the Pacific side of the Mexican coast. I have a feeling that Australia is the place to be. They were also in a pretty sweet surf rock band called OneJonathan, and we got to jam out a bit. Basically they travel around play guitar, surf, drink heaps, and talk to alot of girls, and generally have a really good time. So needless to say, they have life figured out. We ate the scorpion out of the bottom of a bottle of Mezcal. These guys were halarious. To quote Rob (imagine this in an Australian accent) “I just woke up in the hammock and there was this Norwegian chick standing over me.. I was just like ahhhhhhhh………EPIC!”.

I made a quick stop at Tulum to see some ruins on the beach. They used to sacrifice little girls there on the altar. The Mayans were exteremely off. But the site is georgous and the visit was well worth it.

After that was Playa del Carmen for a few nights. Some of the best snorkling and diving around. I did alot of swimming and laying in the sun. It was good.

Then onto the ancient Mayan city of Palenque. To quote the lonely planet “superb jungle setting and exquisite architechture, and decoration, is one of the marvels of Mexico”. 500 buildings spread over 15km of jungle setting. I was almost the first one in the park at 8 am , so I got to wander the ruins by myself. That place is really trippy. Toucans and monkeys howling, jungle vines, abandoned temples. “Indiana? The dogs name is Indiana”.

Also did a side trip to this place called Misol-ha, where they filmed some scenes from Predator. Heres me near the waterfall.

After Palenque I took an overnight bus to San Cristobal de Las Casas. “a cool highland town among misty region of deeply traditional indigenous villages”. Last night there was some music on in the square. 2 guys playing and singing Mexican guitar. I would recomend backpacking Mexico to everyone. Its really easy going, the people nice, and the food is awsome. After this is Puerto Escondido to hit the beach for a while and maybe catch some surf.

Adios!

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The End

Tuesday, October 24th, 2006

the end

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I score goals

Tuesday, October 17th, 2006

There was a guy sitting on a bench just chilling. All tanned out. ‘Whats goin on man?’ , ‘Nothing man, just chillin.’ he said. He was on his way to ski the Swiss Alps. ‘Sweet, how you gettin there?’. He said he was just going to start walking in that direction.

You see, this guy had no money. I asked him what he did with his life. He said ‘I score goals.’
What? I said. ‘Whats that supposed to mean.’ And he listed off the last 10 goals he scored. went down the Amazon in a small paddle boat, saw the pyramids, circumferenced South America on motorbike, and a few others.

‘How do you get money, what do you eat, where do u stay?’ He said you dont need money. He takes it if people give it to him, and he eats whatever he has, sleeps where he can. The secret was that he just didnt care about anything in the world except his current goal. He put 100 percent of his pysical and mental abilites towards the goal – whether it be reading about what he needs to know to do it, working for a bit, talking to people , whatever. But he gets there in the end. So thats how he lives his life. He scores goals. Pretty sweet.

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Morocco Fire

Tuesday, October 17th, 2006

I even like writing ‘October’. Its probably my favorite month. Just coming off the warmth of summer, hasnt quite yet turned the corner into winter. Its just maybe a bit crisp. A light jacket, jeans.

This October has brought me Morocco during Ramadan. its been a really cool tour through & blessed the whole time. From Tanger an overnight train straight into the heart of the country – Marrakech. The most heavliy travelled spot and also one of the most intriguing. this was my 1st experience of Ramadan. The people fasting from sunrise to sunup. No eating, no drinking, no sex, no smoking. They’re not even supposed to look at women during the day. Its an interesting phenomenon with people handling it in different ways. ALot get exremely irratable, but many are cool about it and act quite normal. The interesting thing is that at sunset, anything goes. And everyone easts as soon as the sun departs. In fact, there is a huge buzz in the air right before sundown where the streets get packed with pople and the excitement builds as people buy fruits cakes, and other foods for ‘breakfast’.

Alot of people have joked that since they can eat from about 6-4am that is exactly what they do. Alot of people also smoke hashish, so the fact that they can´t toke up throughout the day causes some irritation.

I had friend in Marrakech this time around who took me to their homes at sunset to break the fast with them. The one time back at Khalids house, his brother had just come in from Casa and we got to catch up – his older brother and I had some adventures in Casablanca the last time sprinting across highways and jumping fences ‘COPS’ sytle to go rescue 2 British birds that got caught up with the wrong people on their way back to his house one night. Overall , Marrakech is an assault on the senses and it was good to get out after a few days. Actually, that is an understatement.. I actually couldnt stand the loudspeakers blaring ALLAH AKBAR at 200 decibals over and over. Wailing Muslims screaming for prayer. Get me out. That part is supremely annoying.

We headed east on a public bus to Essaoura, a surf town made famous by people like Jimi Hendrix and Oscar Wilde living there back in the day. I think the town had grown up a bit since then and while it was ok, it wasn´t the majorly chill spot that was neccessary.

Spent a night there then headed out on another bus to a beach called Sidi Kaoki, which was supposd to be some sweet surf spot. These public buses are a trip. I can’t even fit in the seats so I had to sort of put one leg out in the isle and the other inside. I guess is good in a way because being the only western people on the bus you get to see the reality of life here. The bus stopping over and over for people on the side of the road, walking out to the road from the rocky ground that extended distances in all directions from the road. We probably looked pretty strange to them wearing cargo pants, boots, and t-shirts while they were all dressed up in Lord of the Rings cloaks. The coolest thing is that all their cloaks/robes have pointed hoods. Jus thinking of the contrast wonderin what I would think if I was on a bus in American and someone walked in with a thick, natrual fiber cloak with a pointy hood.

Anyway, Kaoki was a one-horse town, actually it was just one old bloke on a donkey and alot of beach. Pretty tranquil except for the major wind factor. Four or so days there were good.

We decided that following the coast up all the way was the best idea, stopping at beaches along the way. So, I went to Oulidia and stayed at a brand new hotel that was offering a special opening deal. It was French run and extremely nice. The dinner was 3 courses and the chefs were wearing those tall white chefs hats, the waiters all trained in the French manner. It was nice to step into a bit of luxury. The scenerey here was incredibly, huge cliffs with giant waves crashing into them..rolling dunes..Naturally protected swimming areas..

At this point, I´m actually in Mexico, and have no desire to write about Morocco anymore. I can sum up the rest of the trip quickly – from Oulidia I headed up to Casablanca, catching a ride with a rich French lady who let us chill in her garded and hooked us up with wine, olives, omelettes, bread, salad, cheese, and coffee. A few nights in Casa (the economic capital), the onto Rabat – the political capital. Rabat is coming around, getting modern, the women dress with alot more fashion and it feels alot more free. This is due to the new king who took the shackles off the women. After that it was onto Fez, the intellectual and religious capital.

You have to be strong in Africa or you will get run all over. People try to pinch money off you at every transaction, and also give the locals rates that are hugely out of proportion with the rates they charge people with white skin. After passing through the Morocco Fire, alot of timidity is burned up.

I´m onto Me-hi-co. Relaxed air and teal waters. I´ll take it. This last picture is from Fez, on the top terrace of a carpet market.

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Sidi Kaoki

Friday, October 6th, 2006

The surf was immensely strong. The beach was vast. The waves rolling into Africa breaking over the sand.

You had to tread out even in less than knee deep water to get out to the waves. It was like a wall of water only about 2 feet high, but with tons of force. Once you got out into the surf, it was a battle getting out to where the waves were breaking. Duck under one wave and try with all your might to paddle with your arms out to catch the next wave before it crashed again.

Massive current pulling to the left. No desire to tread further than chest height. Traveller lost of the coast of Morocco. Strike that, they wouldnt even publish it.

It was basically your dusty one horse town with vast expanses of open beach and ocean. A few small places to stay, a couple options for food. The chill set on almost immediatly. Omar hooked us up with bbq’ed fish, bread, and Moroccain salad for lunch. Usually a tomate y fromage omelette for breakfast. Water, maybe some orange juice. You lose your fat pretty quick on that. Plus the surf is a workout.