A taste of old Japan
A blaring speaker in the capsule woke me, reminding me it was time to check out. Great start to a day of wandering Tokyo with a massive hangover. I set out in search of a new bed for the evening and a tattoo artist who would help further brand me as a member of the “Gaijin Yakuza”. I expected to meet with aggravators for my headache, but I was pleasantly surprised to find the opposite… gardens, shrines, serenity, and sake!
Leaving Akasaka, I came across an odd curiosity among the skyscrapers and bustling traffic I’ve come to expect in Tokyo; a large torii sitting in front of a mysteriously out of place wooded hill. Up a staircase lined with an inestimable amount of red Torii, I found Hie-Jinja, one of Tokyo’s oldest Shinto shrines. An overwhelming peace surrounded this place. Upon entering the grounds you feel as if you’ve left modern Tokyo, and retrogressed back a little further in time. While admiring the statues and a lengthy wall of ornate paper lanterns which decorated the grounds I was approached by a nice woman. She kindly took time out of her day to explain the custom of offering a few coins, bowing twice, clapping twice, and bowing again before making your prayer.
I could easily have relaxed and soaked up the tranquility there all day, but I still needed to find a room before it became too late. After a couple phone calls I found an inexpensive ryokan in Ikebukuro. According to Lonely Planet, there is not much to do there during the day except visit two of the world’s largest department stores… doesn’t sound too exciting. Luckily, there is a traditional Japanese garden nearby. I made my way to Rikugi-en and spent the afternoon wandering the grounds.
In the center of this twenty-five acre garden lies a rather large pond teeming with turtles and humongous coy. Distinctive bridges arch over meandering streams leading to miniature waterfalls. Uninhabited paths wind through clusters of unusual trees, and patches of immaculately groomed flowers adorn the refined scenery. Every so often a tea house is hidden in the seclusion of this forest sanctuary from Tokyo’s madness. At the edge of the water I found rest with a large cup of thick green tea and Japanese sweets.
When the garden closed, I made my way to the Kimi Ryokan. This quaint little guesthouse provided a nice respite from the madness outside, but eventually the necessary search for victuals drew me out to the Las Vegas-like streets of Ikebukuro. I eventually settled on an inexpensive noodle shop (It is amazing that you can find filling, completely delicious meals for around $3 if you forgo the stylish atmosphere of a more upscale restaurant). Afterwards I bar hopped for a little bit trying sake and shochu before finding a bartender who recommended a great tattoo artist nearby… mission accomplished!
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Tags: - Photography, Asia, Garden, Japan, Japan: Toyko, Shrine, Tokyo
Adam Shane
Japan is a one of the very historical and fascinating countries in Asia. No matter how advanced the Japanese are in technology, they are still accustomed to their traditions.
I enjoy your writing, awesome pics and thanks for sharing. Turned on to your journey by Mom with a capital ‘M’!
I just stumbled upon your blog and you have me so excited to visit Japan! I leave the 25th and am planning on visiting a lot of the same places. Thanks for sharing!