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Archive for February, 2008

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Camel Tattoo?

Wednesday, February 20th, 2008

As the afternoon reaches its mid point I call the fort quits and head off to the intriguingly named Camel Tattoo Presentation.  Last night, when the chef at my hotel described it as camel dancing, my curiosity was peaked.  He jokingly said that they would be jumping around from all of the pain.  I imagined a sort of branding, but still completely missed his joke and play on words until I saw the event in person.   [read on]

Exploring the Fort City

Wednesday, February 20th, 2008

 

For my second morning in Jaisalmer, I give the dusty festival a rest and take the time to investigate the huge fort dominating the city. On top of a minor hill in the center of the town, golden sand-stone walls reach a modest height. A cluttered collection of beautiful Haveli buildings peak out over their edges, tempting with promises of a grand world of history waiting within.    [read on]

Runaway Facial Hair

Tuesday, February 19th, 2008

With an early rise and start I leave my hotel and walk past the entrance gate to the fort. It beckons and tries to lure me inside, but I press onwards through the golden city. Ubiquitous yellow-gold sandstone bricks compose most of the intricately carved buildings. The typical medieval streets are complete with errant cows, erratic traffic and everything else Indian. But I find little time on this walk to soak up the atmosphere. The excessive tourist hassle does little to detract from the charm of this fascinating place, but I maintain my brisk pace through the army of touts and finally arrive at the Jaisalmer Desert Festival. [read on]

A Moustache Contest in Jaisalmer?

Monday, February 18th, 2008

A Moustache Contest?

As the first words of the Jaisalmer Desert Festival fell upon my ears, the interest had already been thoroughly implanted. Along with a series of other bizarre events and a good share of camels, this event is too atypical to pass up! With the information that the gathering begins tomorrow, I don’t hesitate to pack my bags and board an overcrowded bus leaving in the early evening. [read on]

Motorcycle Mishaps

Sunday, February 17th, 2008

After a late lunch I find my mechanical mount and start back towards civilization. I leave the limits of the camel fair and into a brewing sandstorm. Long distance visibility is down a bit, and the stinging sand against my skin isn’t pleasant, but I can still make out the road safely. It is on this road from Naguar to Jodhpur I run into my first of motorcycle problems, where only a few minutes into the desert I run out of gasoline!    [read on]

Naguar Camel Fair

Sunday, February 17th, 2008

It only took two days in Jodphur before I found my self on a motorcycle again. The opportunity to simulate one of my youth-grown dreams gunning a bike down a desert straightaway was too hard too pass up. Conveniently, the nearby village of Naguar is hosting a camel fair. [read on]

The Blue City

Saturday, February 16th, 2008

The city of Jodhpur; a sprawling Indian urban center parked in the center of desert packed Rajastan. A towering 15th century fort perched atop an extraordinarily steep rock hill looms over an array of twisting medieval city streets. Hailing from an era of Brahmin priest caste settlement, most of the buildings are painted varied shades of blue. A few sparse pastel red and lemon hues thrown into the assortment of block-like structures help bring the whole scene together similar to a bizarre geometric painting.

[read on]

Zen and the art of bowel maintenance

Friday, February 15th, 2008

Hey kids: Have you ever tried a shaking public squat toilet on an overcrowded train. It’s like an extreme sport! It makes all other comodes feel dull and boring! And hey parents… it’s actually more sanitary too! [read on]

Back to Bombay and Beyond

Friday, February 15th, 2008

 

So my fate brought me back to Mumbai, just a little early than anticipated.  I made my way through the uncharacteristic cold dawn air and mist on a local train towards Chembur.  A short time later I climbed the flight of steps to Ratnadeep’s door and rang the doorbell.  Surprise; I’m early!  He unexcpectedly but warmly welcomed me in, and for the next week I was at home again.     [read on]

“Sleeper”

Friday, February 8th, 2008

All sleeper tickets to Mumbai are booked for a solid week, but I must escape the magnetism of Gokarna before I become a permanent fixture in the wave kissed sand.  The beach of Arambol in Goa sounds like a nice stop on the way north, and it happens to be home to a reputable Tabla instructor, so I board a second class train headed there.  Even if people are packed in so tight that I’m left hanging out the door, it’s only a two hour trip so it shouldn’t be that bad.    [read on]