Otaue-Shinji
I awoke just in time to catch the opening ceremony of the Otaue-Shinji (rice planting ceremony) at Sumiyoshi-Daichi. This annual Shinto ceremony was recommended to me yesterday when I went to pick up a subway map at the info desk. Even after being here for two months, it was still the first traditional-culture event that I’ve had the opportunity to witness.
In the courtyard of the main shrine was a large gathering of people in assorted historical costumes. Throughout the festival, each group had a specific role to perform. To the drone of an eerie sounding instrument which I couldn’t see, they conducted the opening ceremony. First, rice plants were brought to the stage and presented to Shinto priests to pray for. Then girls in bizarre green hats would approach in pairs and were offered the plants. Once they returned to their seats the music ceased.
It was replaced by the blaring of ancient shell horns. A man in elaborate samurai gear approached the stage. He towered above everybody, and on closer inspection I noticed that his shoes for platforms at least a foot tall. He meticulously performed an odd ritual using a fan and a very large bladed weapon. Once he finished, everybody stood and began a short parade through the shrine grounds.
They ended up at another stage in the center of a large rice field (which definitely seemed a little out of place in the middle of the concrete expanse of Osaka). Here they performed a few dances and ceremonious displays as the rice was distributed around the field. Using a bull and the labor of at least twenty-five people, they began to plant the field.
Throughout the next couple hours there were a few entertaining performances, but the highlight was definitely the samurai group. After the leader took the stage and did another slow ritual, his entourage joined him and began to signal two groups of boys in battle armor.
They did a few charges around the perimeter, a repetitious movement using staffs, and culminated in a face to face fighting dance.
After the mock battle, an endless stream of young girls came out to do a final dance around the field, which was completely planted by this point. I tried to stick around to take a few more photos of the shrine grounds, but a heavy downpour of rain urged me back to the hotel.
After a few hours, the rain finally subsided and I made my way out to Nanba area to meet Hugh, one of Chris’ friends from the city. We met at Kama Sutra, a tiny bar hidden on the fifth floor of a building in a popular nightlife district. He turned out to be a really cool guy, who was full of great advice about the city. He even lent me a bicycle to use while I’m here. This city is getting cheaper and cheaper. Chris warned me it would be easy to get stuck in this city. If my visa expiration wasn’t right around the corner it could easily be a possibility.
see all of my photos from the Otaue Shinji
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Tags: - Photography, Asia, Festival, Japan, Japan: Kansai, Kansai, Osaka
Adam Shane
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