Yep, it's that time again to fill you in on how we've been getting along in Peru these last few weeks...

When we arrived in Cusco after so many bus trips, we didn't want to see another one for at least a week. During that week we got to know a bit about Cusco, see a museum or two and sort out some practical things. In a country where old glass bottles and jars can be converted into drinking glasses, and right-hand-drive Japanese cars are changed into left-handed ones for the Peruvian roads (yes, it's possible), a couple of burnt and battered rucksacks are no big deal. A simple payment of EUR 22 to a local shoe repair and two days wait was enough to have the bag patched up and looking as good as new. I'm so glad now that we never came across a decent replacement in the meantime!

During the week we also discovered a nice cozy restaurant called "La Bodega" and got to know the manager, Mari Carmen, after offering to help with the translation of the menu. Our help was graciously rewarded with an invitation to dinner and this became a regular spot for dropping in to have a chat with Mari Carmen while we were around. We had some priceless discussions about Peru and the world and learned so much more than we could have without her.

Towards the end of the week in Cusco, we bought a tourist ticket for $10 USD which was valid for 10 days and included access to several ruins throughout the Sacred Valley. By this stage, we were raring to go and we set our sights on the first of these, called Pisac.

The whole area around Pisac was filled with many ruins and Inca terraces scattered all over. To conserve our energy we reached the top of the archaeological site by taking a taxi from the village and then we descended by foot. It took nearly two and a half hours to wind our way around, and sometimes through (by way of tunnels) the entire mountain on the way back down. It was well worth the effort as we were rewarded with so many enigmatic ruins and splendid views.

The next archaeological site we went to was at Ollantaytambo (which is where we had to wait a couple of days to take the cheaper train to Machu Picchu). We especially liked these ruins because of the clever aqueduct system that the Incas established, and it is still used to provide running water for many in the village today. While the village was pretty and had interesting Inca buildings still in use, it was a shame that it was so overrun with tourists trying to get to Machu Picchu (it is the high season after all).

Before hopping on the train to Aguas Calientes (the village nearest the archaeological zone of Machu Picchu), we got talking to three nice ladies from Argentina (Maria Rosa, Alfrida and Alcira). During our time in Aguas Calientes, we bumped into them regularly and exchanged stories of how we were getting on. We were even on the same train with them back, and continued on the same bus back to Cusco.

Now's a good time to clarify that we did get to see Machu Picchu, yes, it's impressive and no, we didn't take the Inca trail (the $300 USD price tag for the four day trek, coupled with an expected waiting time of three weeks wasn't too appealing). Our experience of it was great, even after getting up at around 5am to avoid the crowds. We walked 8km from our hotel and ascended the "old mountain" (the meaning of the Quechuan words "Machu Picchu") using Inca steps that traversed the surrounding jungle. For the walk there, the humidity and mist were fairly constant and the only sounds we could hear were the wildlife and our own footsteps crunching as we went (and admittedly a few buses in the distance on the first few steps). Behind us were mountains abundant with vegetation and the valley would spread out before us on those occasions when the mist would mysteriously rise up and disappear; only to reappear minutes later, engulfing us once again. It was an indescribable experience being in the presence of so many birds and animals that we had never seen before; strange trees and plants adding to the damp and sweet smell of vegetation.

So many days of walking here, there and everywhere had left us wrecked so afterwards we returned to Cusco to rest. Once we charged up our batteries, we went on a horse trip to the ruins closest to the city. The next day Mari Carmen brought us to see some of the oldest parts of Cusco (a lot of which is currently undergoing restoration). This final tour of the city was just a few hours before we departed to our next destination which was the southern city of Arequipa.

This brings us up to the present since this is where will still are. Known as the "white city" (partially because of the colour of the volcanic rock that's used for the colonial buildings and partially because of the colour of the population in bygone days), we just recently got back here after leaving to tour the Colca Canyon for a few days. On our tour of the Canyon (which is nearly twice as deep as the Grand Canyon in the U.S. of A.) we were blessed to see the Condors gliding majestically through the skies.

The last thing we have left to see in Arequipa is the famous mummy known as "Juanita". It should be worth the visit and they say that she's very well preserved because she was found frozen in Mount Ampato (not too far from the here) back in 1995.

After five weeks in Peru (which is a lot longer than we expected to stay here), we feel it is now time to turn the page and start a new chapter; this time in Bolivia.