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September 05, 2004

Peaceful in 'La Paz' / En paz en 'La Paz'

Hi everyone! We've made it to Bolivia safe and sound and we are currently in the packed, bursting at the edges capital, La Paz. We will be flying on into part of the jungle in northern Bolivia tommorrow (Monday), so now's as good a time as any to fill you in on our first sights in the country.

Last week, we strolled through the Peru-Bolivian border at Lake Titicaca without any problems and immediately witnessed a change. Greeted by a smiling Bolvian immigration officer, the first thing we noticed was the difference in peoples attitude. Peruvians can often be quite reserved, especially when it comes to dealing with foreigners, but this doesn't seem to be the case so much here. On the whole, they seem to like a bit of banter and usually have the time for the odd wisecrack, which was refreshing and unexpected.

Following closely behind this, the next thing we noticed was how cheap everything was. Our first meal in the border town of Copacabana, consisted of soup, a main course and tea and set us back 12 Bolivianos (EUR 1.20) for the two of us. Nice and tasty too; we couldn't fathom how it's possible to make a profit at these prices. During our time in this pleasant town, we managed to see a procession of vehicles which were heavily laden with decorations, getting blessed by the local priest as well as taking an excursion over to on of the islands on Lake Titicaca, Isla del Sol. The island was beautiful and so small that we walked it in about four hours. As usual in Bolivia, there'a a "world highest" attached to everything and Lake Titicaca's claim to fame is being the worlds highest navigable lake at around 4,000 m.a.s.l.

Although there's been a big drop in the cost of things since entering Bolivia, I'd like to remind you that there has also been a change in the quality of service to accompany it. The added unpredictabilty with trying to get even the simplist of things done, means that it's hard to know how smoothly things will go during the day. This is summed up perfectly by our experience on the (supposedly) 3 hour bus trip from Copacobana to La Paz. It was fairly straightforward for the first couple of hours, apart from when we had to dismount while the bus was loaded onto a boat and taken across the lake; us following after it in a separate boat. Soon after this stretch though things came to a halt in the middle of nowhere. Explanations detailing problems with the diesel and an apparent strike in La Paz, didn't give us any hope that we were going to be moving anytime soon. Rumours were starting to spread that we might have to spend to night in sitio. Luckily after nearly 45 minutes or so a local campesina lady came to the rescue and poured a bit of diesel from an old beatup can into the buses fuel tank. This was enough to get us to a gas station that had some diesel for sale and from that we were able to get to our destination. Phweh! Because of problems we'd heard with the local service, we'd taken a tourist bus to try and avoid problems like this. If this was the best they had to offer, I'd hate to think what the normal service is like!

Our last five days have been enjoyably spent wandering about the hilly streets of La Paz. There's another "worlds highest" for you fact freaks out there... this time La Paz holds the title for the worlds highest capital. Due to the amount of cars and people crammed into this relatively compact city centre the hustle and bustle was a bit unnerving on arrival. The amount of people and stalls mean that on some roads there's no room for walking on the footpath (so you have to negotiate a path with the cars). The stalls and street sellers are amazing here though, selling every sort of knick-knack imaginable and some more unusal items such as llama foetuses and other offerings to the gods should you feel so inclined. Some of the other things that made an impression on us were the bavaclava wearing shoeshine lads (who are usually students, wishing to avoid recognition), a downed power mast right in the middle of the road which didn't seem to bother anyone and an industrial looking, natural gas powered clothes drier which seems a long way away from the domesticated comforts we take for granted in Europe.


That's all the news for now. Make sure you check back next week for news of our adventures in the jungle!

**VERSION EN ESPAÑOL**

Hola a todos! Hemos llegado a Bolivia y ahora estamos en su concurrida capital, La Paz. Mañana lunes volamos a la selva amazónica en la parte norte del país así que ahora es el mejor momento para deciros cual ha sido nuestrs primera impresión sobre esta bella tierra.

La semana pasada cruzamos la frontera de Perú con Bolivia sin percance alguno. El funcionario de la oficina de inmigración nos recibió con una grata sonrisa. Inmediatamente notamos la diferencia entre el carácter de los peruanos y bolivianos. Así como los primeros son bastante reservados (o al menos con los extranjeros), los bolivianos son todo lo contrario. Incluso bromearon con nosotros cosa que hacía mucho que no nos pasaba y resultó refrescante.

Lo que también notamos enseguida fue lo barato que es todo. La primera cena en la ciudad fronteriza de Copacabana nos costó 12 bolivianos (1,20 euros) por los dos menús que incluían primer y segundo plato más té. Nos preguntamos que beneficios adquieren de tales precios.

Sin embargo, aunque todo es tan barato, la calidad del servicio proporcionado es muy diferente a los estándares europeos (e incluso a los peruanos). Calidad no lo es todo pero es que también es impredecible. Un buen ejemplo está en cuando cogimos el bus para La Paz. Las dos primeras horas fueron bastante normales, a parte de cuando paramos a cruzar el lago Titicaca y el autobús vino con nosotros... Luego retomamos el rumbo y tuvimos que parar en un pueblo de Dios a esperar que una señora nos trajera un poco de gasolina (cuando nos enteramos de que había huelga en las gasolineras de La Paz no nos dio muchas esperanzas de salir de allí pronto). Después de 45 minutos apareció la señora con una vieja garrafa de lata oxidada llena de gasolina, abrió el tanque y la echó. Con eso tuvimos suficiente para llegar a la próxima gasolinera y de ahí a la capital. Sabíamos que algunos de los servicios locales eran problemáticos así que escogimos un servicio turístico. Si este era así, ni nos imaginarnos como era el servicio local!

Durante nuestro tiempo en Copacabana (la ciudad fronteriza que os comentábamos), fuimos testigos de como los curas bendecían los coches, furgonetas, camiones, etc. que aparcaban delante de la iglesia y también nos fuimos de excursión a una isla cercana llamada Isla del Sol. Es preciosa, con vistas al lago Titicaca y tan pequeña que la cruzamos a pié en 4 horas.

Algo normal en la zona occidental de Bolivia es la altitud lo que conlleva a una serie de records mundiales de altitud . Y para los interesados aquí van dos: el lago navegable más alto del mundo (Titicaca) y la capital más alta del mundo (La Paz). Hay unos cuantos más que supongo iremos conociendo a medida que los vayamos visitando.

Estos últimos días han sido muy agradables, caminado por las calles de La Paz. Estas están abarrotadas de gente y tráfico constante, los coches comparten espacio con los peatones por que las ceras están repletas de paradas en las que se vende de todo un poco. Nos llamó la atención que hay chicos con pasa-montañas limpiando zapatos. Le preguntamos a un policía el por qué de estos pasa-montañas y nos dijo que los llevan para proteger su identidad, para que sus compañeros de clase no los vieran. También nos pareció interesante ver una secadora de gas (se veía un fogón en la parte de arriba!) en una lavandería.

Y eso es todo por el momento. Aseguraros de visitar nuestra página la semana que viene para saber sobre nuestras aventuras en la selva!



Isla_del_Sol-Lake_Titicaca.JPG
Isla del Sol, Titicaca


Family_of_Pigs-Isla_del_Sol.JPG
Family of pigs in the Isla del Sol / familia de cerditos en la Isla del Sol


Bus_on_Boat_Tiquina.JPG
On our way to La Paz / De camino a La Paz


Streets_of_La_Paz.JPG
Streets of the capital / Las calles de la capital.


Placa_Murillo-La_Paz.JPG
Murillo Square / Plaza Murillo

Posted by Nate on September 5, 2004 07:42 PM
Category: 06 Bolivia
Comments

Wow - it just keeps getting better for you guys. The photos look amazing - a real Zorro buzz off the ones from Bolivia. Machu Pichu looks deadly aswell. Hope ye are taking lots of snaps.

Keep posting!

Eoiny

Posted by: Eoiny on September 9, 2004 03:31 PM

Alright Eoiny.

Yep, it's going well for us. If maybe a little bit too fast at times.
Hope you like the new snaps from the Amazonia area of Bolivia.

Talk to ya later,
Kev

Posted by: Kevin on September 14, 2004 04:22 AM
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