BootsnAll Travel Network



Exploring Slovenia

May 13th, 2006

It has been an excellent week here in Slovenia. This is a really beautiful country, and small enough that is easy to see lots in a short period of time. Ljubljana is a great town, and I have especially enjoyed learing about Joze Plecnik, the Slovenian architect who is responsible for creating much of the cities buildings and bridges. He designed buildings in Prague too, some of which we saw when we were there a few weeks ago. A tour of his home here in Ljubljana is well worth the time.

Other things we did around town: sampled Slovenian wines at the Movia winebar with a friend living here who played tour guide (and also graciously let us use his washer for laundry day!), strolled through Tivoli Park, hiked up to the castle (a routine occurence in every European city we visit), and randomly had Mexican food twice this week (belated Cinco de Mayo celebration.)

We also took some great daytrips to Bled and the caves at Postojna, which I wrote about here. The incredible weather we have had the past two days has really added to the beauty of this region. People are very nice too…I am headed to Piran next, on the coast, and will be traveling solo for this next leg of the trip. My wonderful travel pal CJ left today for Venice. After two months and nine countries together, we are parting ways for the rest of our journeys. Next time we catch up will be sometime this summer back in NY. Its been great to have such a wonderful travel partner. Weve got lots of great memories…and photos…more coming…eventually! Okay, there is a line for the internet at this late hour and Ive got packing to finish so off I go…sorry for no apostrophes, no clue where they are on this keyboard!

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80 Days Around Europe

May 6th, 2006

Blessed are the curious, for they shall have adventure.

– L. Drachman

And boy have I been blessed! I’ve made it to day 80 and I can hardly believe all that I have been able to see and do. Every single day I meet incredible people, see beautiful things and learn interesting lessons about the history, culture and traditions of the places I visit.

But I must say the people are the most memorable for me. Sure, there are sunsets and buildings and bridges (and yummy meals!!) that I will never forget, but it is the people that will stay with me forever, closest to my heart…even the few that haven’t always left the best impression. What I keep with me daily, and revisit in my journal writing, are the people, the moments, the conversations and interactions. I am the lucky owner of a long list of incredible people who have taught me things, made me laugh or cry (or both) and touched me in ways I will never forget. Often it is someone who’s name I learn, people I spend time with — Laura, Sam, Cristina, Keith, Terry, Charles, Col, Eszter, Meleta or Sasha (just to name a small few.) But sometimes it is simply an anonymous person who helped me in some way — the woman I bought my fruit from, the sweet girl who helped me find a working payphone, the redhead at the train station who asked me if I needed help with directions, the man who waited patiently while I counted my change…AGAIN! There are tons of folks like this, every single day some angel gives me a nod or shove or push, almost always in the right direction or at just the right time.

The journey continues…and I think it is because of people that I feel just as energized as Day 1 — people I meet and folks back home too. In less than 80 days I will be back in the states (MOM: insert big smile here) and will continue to be touched by incredible people…all those that have supported and cheered me on during this great adventure, as well as new folks whom I’ve yet to cross paths with. Here’s to more adventures of a very curious mind…and the people she meets along the way 🙂

Oh, just a quick reminder too — please also check the Eurail blog for updates, I’ll continue posting on that website about three times a week through the end of my trip. I promise lots of good travel tips in the coming months, as high season approaches. And a quick mention of two other BootsnAll Europe websites to check out, the creative Europe on an Alphabet and the all-knowing World Cup Blog! Start planning your own European adventure today 🙂

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Big and Blue in Buda

May 1st, 2006

It’s a rainy Monday morning here in Budapest and I am safe and sound at a cozy internet cafe, waiting for CJ to arrive this afternoon on a train from Vienna. Today is another bright-blue-poncho-day — I scream tourist in this thing, walking around looking like a soaked Cookie Monster, but it’s all I got, and I’m thankful for that.

Yesterday’s marathon travel day worked out just fine (another thanks to the travel gods) and I arrived at the Grotta House on Castle Hill by about 8 pm last night. I traveled through three countries yesterday and actually got three stamps in the passport to prove it. Although I did not get off the train in Slovakia, it was cool to pass through Bratislava and the border town of Stúrovo. Coming the way I did (via Brno in the Czech Republic instead of via Austria), I also got a great late-day peek at the beautiful Danube Bend, near Esztergom and Visegrád. We might make a day trip up that way later this week if the weather improves…

The owner of Grotta House, Eszter, is a wonderful host — after I unpacked and showered, I joined her in the wine cellar/basement bar for a late dinner — a glass of Hungarian red wine and a warm cheese and salami sandwich. I think I’m going to enjoy staying in the hilly Buda neighborhoods of Castle Hill and Viziváros, with its stunning views of the Danube (and its sprawling bridges), and the Parliment building on the banks along the Pest side. It is a huge city, much larger than Prague, but it looks like the metro and tram systems will get us where we need to go (when our feet give up).

Well, here’s hoping April showers give way to May sunshine, wherever you are 🙂

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We’ve got photos!

April 27th, 2006


Beer Garden at Vyserhad

Originally uploaded by lostinplace.

Finally! Thanks to my traveling pal CJ, who actually OWNS a digital camera, we finally have some photos from our trip. I’ve uploaded some to the blog, and others to my Flickr account. Just click on the photo ( or here) to see more. I’ve got to fiddle with the sizing on some, but this was what I had time to do quickly, there are photos from Warsaw, Krakow, Prague and out hike yesterday here in Cesky Krumlov. I took this one with CJ’s camera at a beer garden in Prague last Friday night. But most of these photos were taken by her…thanks CJ!

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Cesky Krumlov and Climbing to Klet

April 26th, 2006

The trail is the thing, not the end of the trail. Travel too fast and you miss all you are traveling for.

~ Louis L’Amour

We went on a 4-mile hike through the low hills surrounding Cesky Krumlov today and trekked to the top of Klet Mountain, about 1,000 meters above sea level. We packed a light lunch and our journals and had hoped to hang out up there for a few hours this afternoon, but the weather had other plans. We started about 10 am under overcast skies, the drips began about halfway up the steep climb, and by the time we reached the top a strong steady rain was falling. We ate our cheese sandwiches and granola bars under the shelter of a summer restaurant/lodge, took a few photos and began the return trip — a fast, soggy decent. Despite the rain, I still loved every minute of the invigorating hike, the serene landscape and the silence. It was delightful to hear only the soft bubble of mountain streams, the pitter patter of falling rain and the crunch of earth beneath our feet — a wonderfully peaceful hike, a great workout for our legs, and of course, by the time we got back to town around 2:30 pm, the sun was shining and we were all dry 🙂

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I am enjoying Cesky Krumlov much more than I thought I would. This place is a tourist magnet, so I was hesitant to come, but we have hit it a week before the official tourist season kicks off and are able to enjoy quiet cozy cafes and nearly deserted streets in the evening. A few tour buses come through during the day, but we really have the place to ourselves, which is just how I like it. This place must be mobbed in summer and I would not come then, it is much too small to handle throngs of tourists. That said, this charming village has got a hold on me…and so I’m staying for a few days longer. CJ leaves for Vienna tomorrow but I will stay here for at least two more days. I’ve got lots of reading and writing to catch up on, some travel articles and hostel reviews to work on, and of course, more travel planning! The internet is cheap here and the cafes are empty, and our hostel, Krumlov House, is rustic and magical in a very comforting way. Completely different than our last hostel, the new urban-chic Czech Inn in Prague, but just as charming in its own special way…so I will linger. As the half-way point of my European adventure approaches, I really feel the need to slow things down more often, and this place is perfect for now.

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Beer Cheese is the Best

April 23rd, 2006

Have you ever had this stuff? It is a favorite here in Prague and CJ and I indulged in this local treat on two separate occasions this week. A generous portion of beer-flavored cheese is served with toasted bread and whole cloves of garlic. You rub garlic on the warm toast, spread on some cheese and take a bite, followed by a swig of a pilsner or something darker if you are a real beer lover. I am not a huge beer gal (boy do I miss those Spanish-wine-with-every-meal -days) but this beer cheese treat really goes quite nicely with a cold one.

We are wrapping up our stay in Prague, and it has been a faulous and memorable week. On Friday we visited Vysehrad, a fortress high on a hill with great views of the river and castle. While there we went to a great rustic outdoor beer garden on the fortress grounds, full of jugglers, dogs and families enjoying a Friday night drink. We then headed to New Town to a very famous, and more touristy beer hall, U Fleku, where we tried their traditional dark brew and met five very nice Brits too, who we then bar-hopped with for a bit. I/we wound up drinking a super-mojito, which I didn’t expect to do in Prague, but it was all part of a fun night out.

We spent most of Saturday and Sunday doing intensive travel planning at an internet cafe for the next leg of our journey. We’re headed to Cesky Krumlov next (3 days), then CJ and I will split up for about four days,eventually reuniting in Budapest for a week, followed by another week or so in Slovenia before we split up for good in early May. We will both be spending time in Italy after that, but will be visiting different friends and family in different parts of the country. Lots of logistics to work out, especially with the high season fast approaching, so it was important to get started on all this. It meant that I did not get to a museum as I had hoped, but all the more reason for a return visit one day.

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Springtime in Prague

April 20th, 2006

Finally!! Since I last wrote things have improved dramatically…the weather has cooperated with a strong sun, budding trees and flowers, and the forcast calls for 60 degrees all week. And the hostel we switched to is a gem…great breakfast, showers and helpful staff…nicest and newest hostel we have stayed in by far, it only opened last month in the less-tourist Vinohrady district. It’s amazing what a little warmth and a comfy pillow can do to boost my spirits. Ofcourse this absolutely glorious city has played a part in the uplifting too…It’s more magical than I imagined…full of amazing architecture and parks, an excelent public transport system (I’m loving the trams!) plus spectacular views from all around. I may have written this before, but I just love cities with hills…it seems to add such character to a place, and as CJ said today, this city has wonderful hills in the right spots. I also adore cities with green space and parks where you can feel away from it all and still be in the heart of the city…and Prague has plenty of this too. We had a picnic lunch on Petrin Hill today, in the shadow of the Strahov Monastary and Prague Castle. Yesterday we did a 4 hour early morning walking tour with Prague Walks and today we retraced our steps and visited some of the gardens and chuches in the quaint Little Quarter, Mala Strana. And of course we have enjoyed walking along the Vltava River and over the famous Charles Bridge. There are some unique museums and art galleries here, including ones that feature Czech cubism and Art Nouveau styles, I’m hoping to visit them this weekend, and tomorrow we may visit the Jewish Quarter. There is laundry and some spring clothes shopping to do (time for new socks!) and of course travel planning, I’ll fit it all in, even if there is no rainy day.

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Two Month Mark

April 17th, 2006

Yesterday CJ and I celebrated a low-key and peaceful Easter Sunday. We also celebrated milestones in our journey. It’s been one month since she landed in Madrid, and it’s been two months since I touched down in Portugal! Back in mid-February, I was wandering through the Alfama and sharing drinks with university students in Lisbon, and one month ago in mid-March I was nestled away in the mountains of Spain making friendships that I hope last a lifetime, while also learning lots about Spanish culture and language. And now I’ve arrived in Prague…Wow. I’m one lucky lady. Somebody pinch me. Is this for real?
Actually, somebody hug me too, okay? 🙂

No worries…I’m FINE — but I’ll admit this past weekend was an emotional one, partially because I was reflecting on my amazing travels thus far (and thinking lots about what’s to come in this journey, and afterwards) and also because my heart was really far away, with my family and friends back home. I missed participating in one of my favorite holiday tradtions — Easter Sunday at Williams Lake — but thanks to mom, I already received photos via email and was so happy to see everyone in their Sunday best looking fantastic and beautiful, enjoying the day and the great weather.

Central Europe suffered one of the coldest winters they have had in years, and spring is slow to come here. That has def. got me down a bit…I’m ready to shed some of these worn clothes in exchange for cheap new ones, but the weather has to improve first. At least mom is happy I’m STILL wearing the great scarf she knit for me for this trip! Yes mom, you are still hugging me daily!
It seems as if Easter back home in NY was much warmer and springy than the one we celebrated in Krakow, although it was a nice day just the same — CJ and I bought dafodills for the dorm room, ate a special cake we had blessed, and even bought an Easter basket. Celebrating the Easter holiday in Warsaw and Krakow was something I will cherish forever, it was a very special experience for me. As mom and dad said in support and love on the phone yesterday, I am exactly where I am supposed to be right now,which I believe is true too, but I do miss the warmth…and I miss baseball and long phone chats with good pals and my fam.
But it is all good, I’ve just got lots on the brain today — that’s what a 7 hour train ride will do to you! There is lots to sort through — we’ve got to come up with a loose itinerary for the next few weeks, and figure out when CJ and I will split ways. Then I have to get working on plans with my Aunt C, who I’ll be spending time with in Italy and Croatia next month…and then there is June and World Cup plans!! I’m lucky enough to have some tixs, but no accommodations yet…fun stuff. It will all work out, but I should take advantage of the less-than-stellar weather we are having and really organize my plans for the remainder of my trip while I have time this week.

Well now — how’s that for a Monday evening, two-month mark brain dump? And that’s not even the half of it…you should see my daily handwritten journals (yup, I’m on to journal number two already) It’s great — lots of energy and ideas and stories…writing is one of my daily joys. And reading too.
Well, happy spring everyone, I hope to be in touch with some of you soon via email and phone…and shoot me a comment when you can! How are each of YOU??

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Holy Week in Krakow

April 14th, 2006

We’ve been in Krakow since Monday and are enjoying it very much, but unfortunately there is no time for me to write about it. The hostel allows a half hour free internet each day and I am maxing mine right now so I must make this short. It is incredible to spend Holy week here and participate in the services and festivities. We went to Holy Thursday mass last night and I was amazed at what we wintessed, massive crowds and a beautiful ceremony. I can only imagine what Easter Day will be like in this devout Catholic country. We have also wandered aimlessly through Old Town, spent time in a wonderful bookstore cafe, and made the important and somber visit to Auschwitz — all very different experiences, but all part of our week here. Lots of education and prayer this week, and we are meeting some great folks in the hostel too, and running into some people that we met earlier in our travels.

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We made it to Warsaw

April 7th, 2006

We took a train to Warsaw today, where we will spend the Palm Sunday weekend, then head to Krakow on Monday and spend an entire week there, including Easter Sunday, before heading to Prague for another seven days. It’s nice to have the next 2+ weeks planned out and booked…

Berlin was cool, the best was Terry Brewer’s ten hour walking tour, which was a life-altering experience…no other words to describe it. Truly, a great history lesson, some laughs and a few intense and difficult moments too, but an excellent introduction to the city.

No time to write more now, but oh how I wish I did. Gotta get some grub, wash up and get some zzz’s.

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