u Stasi
Krakow, Poland
We peered in through the fogged up windows.
Yes! There were a few little tables with wooden chairs, yes there were coathooks on the wall, yes, there was the tiled hatch to put dirty dishes through, but more importantly, yes, everyone was eating pierogi. It was just as we remembered. We’d *have to* come back one day when we hadn’t already eaten.
Today was the day. Into the dimness of a big wooden-doored building we tripped and clattered on up the stone steps, past a small pizzeria and the entrance to the apartments upstairs, and right through to an outdoor courtyard. At the other side of the courtyard was “u Stasi” (directly translatable as “At Stasi’s”, perhaps more eloquently translated as “Stasi’s Place”)
A few things surprised us.
- That we found it.
We were told about this little Polish home cooking restaurant just before we returned to New Zealand twenty years ago and we went to it only once. - That it is still there.
It is not even a block from the most touristified centre of Krakow. You’d have thought it might have been bought out by some bigger establishment by now. - That it still serves only Polish food.
Two sorts of soup, half a dozen pierogi varieties, stuffed cabbage, pork cutlet, compote and tea. - That it is still cheap (despite being in tourist town).
The pierogi portions were the largest of any we have seen advertised as we have walked around, and about half the cost. - That we all got to eat at the same time.
Our historical experience was that a large queue formed outside (and when we were there the other day it was the same) and as a seat or two became free inside, one or two people would be admitted. We all got in at the same time, although not at tables near each other! - That when we sat down, ERgirl3 said, “I’d like rice please” – you can tell her restaurant experience is limited to Asia, where invariably the choice was either rice or noodles!
And so we checked off another of our like-to-do items for Krakow.
We also strolled round town, took lots of photos and chose some artwork to take home (a few months back Rob suggested we should have one picture for each overseas trip we have taken – when we were in Malaysia eight years ago we bought a painting for our wedding anniversary; that covered that trip. This time we are going to create our own art from our photos – somehow. But we didn’t have anything from our first two years away, and as we spent most of that time in Krakow, it seemed appropriate to find a Krakow painting – actually, we ended up with three little ones to mount together. Hopefully this means we will finally mount the Malaysia one too!!)
And when we look at them, we’ll remember eating pierogi for lunch.
Pierogi z miesem.
Ruskie pierogi.
Pierogi ze serem.
Pierogi with meat.
Russian pierogi (filled with potato).
Pierogi stuffed with white cheese, sprinkled with sugar and drowning in butter.
Tags: 2008/09, food, history, postcard: Poland
rayres
oo the pierogi ze serem sounds like me! but.. sugar? really?!
You gotta understand this is not a melty-cheesey savoury cheese – it’s definitely a sweet dessert, and the crunchy sugar is just perfect! Instead of butter some people use fresh cream – both are good!!
Here’s the cheese filling recipe, enough for three dozen pierogi:
• 1 large egg, beaten
• 1/2 teaspoon salt
• 4 tablespoons sugar (or to taste)
• 1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract
• 1 pound farmer’s cheese
Just mix it all together, drop blobs onto pierogi dough, fold up and pop in boiling water until cooked.
The famer’s cheese is something like ricotta or beaten cottage cheese. Or you can make your own: http://americanfood.about.com/od/appetizersandsoups/r/farmercheese.htm
Happy cooking vego girl!