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would you like to come for breakfast?

Wednesday, January 7th, 2009

by Rach
Phnom Penh, Cambodia
 

We’re just popping down to the market.
We leave our guesthouse…..

and walk down the road. Nothing spectacular, just a fairly typical street.

At the corner there are two sleeping beauties. The other tuktuk drivers on the opposite corner laugh as we photograph this one – I’m sure they’ll tell him later!

The second sleeper is harder to see – can you spot his feet?

Stepping back, I snap again so you can see “the bigger picture”.

And the other side.

At the end of the street, this guy appears. That’s one serious load he’s hauling! We walk down here every morning and there’s always something interesting to see!

Most days we get a “doughnut” from this stall and then some fruit.

But today we’re having rice noodle soup. Over a dozen men and women crowd around to watch us eat, ask us questions, help us learn some more Khmer. We wish the H’s were still with us – obviously people figured we were two medium-sized families when they were here….now we can’t walk down the street together without people stopping us to check how many and where from. Our “Two families” answer to the then-occasional question was too short-lived! Ah well, the “brahmbai gon” and “pee chnahm” (eight children, two years) rippled round the market this morning. Tomorrow might be quieter and quicker for us!

We find bread for lunch and dinner (for dinner we’re stuffing the rolls with BBQed meaty sausages and gherkins and tomatoes – the sausages we’ll get from a stall tonight, the rest we pick up at the market).

We buy bananas and oranges.

We get pepper to go on the tomatoes.

We pass by the chickens.

We don’t bother the butcher, either.

And we cross the road to head home. Hang on, it’s a bit busy, we’ll wait a moment.

Still too busy.

OK, step out now!

food in our tummies and a roof over our heads

Thursday, January 1st, 2009

by a surprised traveller
Phnom Penh to Kampot, Cambodia
 

Expecting to be picked up just before nine, we were cutting into our breakfast watermelon at a quarter to eight when the guesthouse staff apologetically announced at our open doorway that the bus would be coming at 7:30. Surprised at this mistake from such a competent English speaker, we soon discovered there was no error. The nine o’clock bus had been cancelled (by no means the first time we have experienced this, but a novel concept for the Hs!) and we were now booked on the 7:20. An urgent honking from the street prompted us to ferry our almost-packed bags down the two flights of stairs as fast as we could to the waiting almost-full-by-western-standards bus. Ordered to sit wherever there was a spot, J14-who-likes-things-done-properly wanted to insist we get the right seats, the allocated-on-our-tickets seats. Rob assured her this was just a pick-up bus taking us to the bus depot where we would transfer to the long haul vehicle. hahaha. Our twelve tickets might have started at number 27, but this bus only went up to 30, and there was to be no transferring to anything!!
Every trip is unique!
And this one will go down as THE bounciest adventure by far. Although the road is mostly straight, it is in no way flat and on the especially hillocky sections our bottoms lose contact with our back-of-the-bus seats. Cheers erupt, reminiscent of those you hear at amusement parks.

But the day does not amuse. Three of the children and their daddy are all feeling grotty. When will this non-specific Cambodian virus leave us alone? The bus takes over an hour longer than we had been told, meaning we arrive after lunchtime with rumbling tummies. The guesthouse we had booked into had not returned emails giving an address and so we need to find somewhere to stay. It is easy to settle on the second place we look at! Non-flushing toilets and cold showers, but cheap and clean with neighbourhood children to play with and a swing for the littlies.
Finding food is not so easy. Where are all the carts with BBQed pork or bread sticks or fruit? Where is the market? Where are the tables outside houses with items for sale? All we can find are packets of instant noodles and chewing gum! E…v…e…n…t…u…a…l…l…y we find a bakery – a dark room with wood-fired ovens and big wooden trays stacked up against the wall – for some reason we cannot understand we are unable to purchase the baguettes on a tray (we figure they’re for someone else), but we can buy fifty teeny tiny round buns. Success of sorts. And that is lunch.

 

It seems prudent to take a wander while little ones nap in the hopes of discovering a dinner destination. Over three hours later we return. Unsuccessful. Not even the market, which we did manage to find on this excursion, had any food that could be peeled and eaten…..but it did have open drains and a stench to remove our appetite.
“This is the longest I’ve ever had to walk to not find food,” Mr H observes. To be fair, it’s not that there’s NO food; it’s just that it’s either too expensive or too Cambodian.
“There are two options,” we announce back at the guesthouse, “Hamburgers for $1.50 or dried fish and I’m-sure-she’d-have-rice-but-I-didn’t-see-any for 2,000” (2,000 riel not dollars! That would be 50 cents) For once the budget isn’t the winner; the funny tummies cannot face fish and the prospect of no rice.
Hoping Kgirl9 (whose eyes have been going blurry again in the afternoon) and Jgirl14 (who now has a rash and has slept most of the day away) will manage the walk, we head for “Hamburger Heaven” (not its real name if you happen to be in Kampot looking for food!), where it will turn out they have no hamburgers left, no pizza slices, no baguettes with cheese, and no something-I-can’t-remember on rice. So we settle for fried rice. But there are only three portions left. AAAAGGGGGHHHHHH! There are, however, French fries. Sincere thanks to the frogs, who conquered this part of the world a century and a half ago. Great legacy. Better than the squashed one we stepped over on the way home!
We eat and Kampot is redeemed.
The three dead rats on the dirt road outside our guesthouse in the morning will not be a problem. The tuktuk drivers who will take us the wrong place for too many dollars will not put us off the place. And the LIVE rat downstairs will be classified as entertainment.
The world looks different with a full tummy. Actually, it was a full tummy and an inspirational chat…..but you’ll have to wait for the conversation.

from a bus window (that we nearly missed)

Saturday, December 27th, 2008
by Rachael, who was actually wondering what the H's were noticing Siem Reap to Phnom Penh, Cambodia It would seem it doesn't matter how many bus/train/boat rides we make, each one is different. Distinctive features of this one from Siem Reap ... [Continue reading this entry]

unexpected cambodia contrast

Friday, December 26th, 2008
by Rachael Siem Reap, Cambodia We had expected to cross the border and come face-to-face with poverty. Isn't it Cambodia we always hear about in the news media? While there were beggars, small dirty children with even smaller babies hanging from ... [Continue reading this entry]

?Christmas?

Friday, December 19th, 2008
by someone listening to carols on the ipod Vientiane, Laos to Bangkok, Thailand via Nong Khai, Thailand There are signs of Christmas in communist Laos. That is to say, there are Christmas trees and fairy lights and a Santa-at-the-north-pole-scene outside a ... [Continue reading this entry]

back to the city

Thursday, December 18th, 2008
by Rachael Vientiane, Laos We woke and our bamboo bed had not disintegrated, despite being held together by a piece of string. We were in the French capital of South East Asia, Vientiane, but it was none-too-French-romantic! The contact paper floor ... [Continue reading this entry]

*DUST*

Wednesday, December 17th, 2008
from Rachael's journal, written on the bus Phonsavanh to Vientiane, Laos We were right! The VIP bus had reclining seats with arm rests, swathes of apple green curtains bordered with yellow tassles and even air-conditioning ducts (not that they worked). The ... [Continue reading this entry]

timeless

Tuesday, December 16th, 2008
joint observations, written up by Rach Phonsavanh, Laos On the way to Phonsavan, Rob commented that apart from satellite dishes and mobile phones, Laos seems stuck in a 1970s timewarp. I countered that with dirt-floored huts under thatched roofs, it is more ... [Continue reading this entry]

If I were Noah….

Sunday, December 14th, 2008
By a very tired Rach Phonsavanh, Laos If I were Noah....there's one animal I'd have refused entry to the ark! Please allow me to explain. One of our readers commented: I'd love to hear stories about teamwork, group problem solving and other ... [Continue reading this entry]

Why did the chicken cross the road?

Saturday, December 13th, 2008
by Rachael Luang Prabang to Phonsavanh, Laos We don't know why - but we did see lots of them trying to on the road from Luang Prabang to Phonsavanh. And I mean dozens, not two or three. We are bouncing down the ... [Continue reading this entry]