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he lingers

Wednesday, September 2nd, 2009

Capitolo, Italy

We cut the breakfast rockmelon into eleven slices.
Rob ate two, as Grandpa was out of reach, somewhere over the Indian Ocean.
He joined us for lunch though – we discovered two emails from Dubai in the inbox just as we were slicing into our semolina bread and bright blood red tomatoes.
When we got to spreading mascarpone under the strawberry jam, Mboy6 announced, “I’m glad Grandpa’s gone.” Wondering eyebrows raised as we waited for further explanation. None was forthcoming and so we pried deeper.
”Well, now there’s more room to sleep. It’s so hot up in the alcove, but it’s cooler with only two people.”
True enough.
And thankfully he added, “I’ll miss him though.”
Others reminded him of the ancient’s propensity to buy icecreams and all agreed, that *that* too, would be missed!
”And remember when we were in Malaysia and he always bought us cans of fizzy coz it was so hot and we were all thirsty?”
”And remember how he got icecream if we went out with him on our own?”
”And remember…”
”And remember…”

Grandpa might not be here, but he has certainly not gone.

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Last night we slept on the side of the road. A quiet, well-lit safe-feeling residential street. With no adult in the van to ward off possible intruders, the big kids were under strict instructions to leave the windows locked (yes, even though it’s still 30 degrees), and not open the door to anyone. At any hint of trouble they could push their dog button – the alarm, sounding like a miniature poodle, would not scare off even a cat, but at least it would alert The Protective Daddy to danger. If all else failed, there was the van horn. But that really is a last resort. It takes three pushes before it even makes a sound, and then there is not a word croaky or feeble or weak enough to describe the pathetic cough it sputters.
Fortunately, there was no need for any of the precautions, and no-one woke until Rob’s alarm went off signalling yesterday’s need to rise early to get to the train station on time! We enjoyed the sunrise. And rockmelon.

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Now we are stationed at a camper park. In addition to our favourite facilities (toilet and waste water dumping and a potable water supply), we have real toilets, a cold shower, an outdoor kitchen (sink and BBQ), shadecloth overhead as well as trees, and the beach is no more than a minute’s walk away.
We were going to travel down to Gallipoli and Lecce before catching a ferry from Brindisi, but there is something very appealing about the thought of just staying here for a week and going nowhere! The sea is so blue-green, the sand hot, the sun shining….bread, pizza, vegetable and fruit sellers wait at the gate…it’s safe…..most holiday-makers have gone home….and it’s quiet apart from the lilting Italian, which makes beautiful background music.
We are thinking of staying here. Whether we end up back on the free street, or just put down paid roots, I don’t mind. The thought of not driving for a few days is an attractive one! Besides, we need to take some time to plan our northward route, to pore over maps, choose some places to visit, read up on road rules and refresh our memories regarding the Cyrillic alphabet. Lecce may be the Florence of the South, but we missed the Florence of the north too so we would not be able to compare. Gallipoli has an important ring about it for Kiwis, but it’s the Turkish one that features in our history, not the Italian one!
So a week on the Adriatic Coast might just be in order.

We just know Grandpa would approve of the decision!

beach blessings

Wednesday, August 26th, 2009

Paestum, Italy

We have seen a famous volcano (Vesuvius), accidentally driven on an unintentional detour through the buried city (Pompeii) and on down towards Sorrento (not that we got that far – it turned out to be like Genoa ie no parking, lots of cars, even more people and we knew we just had to turn around and drive back so we turned back when we’d had our fill of gorgeous coastline)…..what the Riviera and more recently  the Bay of Naples failed to provide, we have discovered further south.

A beach. With warm golden sand. Sea as tepid as a bath, gently shelving out towards the deep. Relatively few people. Just enough umbrellas and brightly painted changing sheds to look cute.

Three metre high shadecloth to park our vans under. Toilets. A huge sink for doing laundry and washing feet in. Power. An erratic mobile phone connection so we can use internet…sometimes. No mosquitoes (just a few jellyfish late in the day). Free cold showers – that’s a real shower you can stand under, not a bowl of water to splash about in. Mboy6 found two euros on the ground so he treated himself (and shared with everyone) a shaved ice with lemon syrup….and still had change left over.

Just a short walk away are all the food shops we could possibly need – both  supermarket-ish for bread, cheese, salami, tomato sauce and pasta, and cafe style for pizza, gelato, iced lemon, pastries, mussels and salads, two sausages and french fries in a bread roll……and more little beach gear stores than you can shake a stick at.

The temperature continues to fluctuate around the high thirties by day, and now at ten at night it is still above thirty in the van. Definitely feels summery. Humid too. The north was a much drier heat; down here almost at the toe of the boot it feels much more like the heat of Asia. Sweats drips. Clothes do not dry as fast in spite of the temperature. But if we are tempted to complain (which some have been now that the humidity has taken away the pure pleasure of sunshine), we remember the rain and rejoice when we get an email from England “We’ve just returned from a wet and windy weekend in west Scotland…”

It’s not raining here…YAY.
It’s not cold…YAY.
It’s hot enough to get clothes dry…YAY.
We found a park at the beach…YAY.
A beautiful beach…YAY.
With sand…YAY.
And shade…YAY.
And water…YAY.
We are blessed…YAY.

Mediterranean Moment

Friday, August 7th, 2009
by Rachael Narbonne-Plage, France

wind: blowing fiercely a-l-l   d-a-y   l-o-n-g demanding trees bow low, forcing sand along the beach, whipping washing to stand at attention completely U-P-R-I-G-H-T on the clothesline, never-a-moment-stopping hot ceaseless blast the mistral blows

It blows and makes a day at ... [Continue reading this entry]

in search of shade

Wednesday, August 5th, 2009
by Rach hovering just above the coast near Narbonne, looking out at the Mediterranean Sea It doesn’t seem that long ago that we were desperately in search of sun. Today we, with the rest of the population in the south, looked ... [Continue reading this entry]

village wander

Thursday, July 30th, 2009
by Rachael Uzerches, France Do you have an hour to come for a stroll? I went alone this morning (although Grandpa VERY NEARLY came with me - “It’s a miserable business going alone",” he said, and only very strong reassurance bordering on ... [Continue reading this entry]

a warwick, a warwick!!

Wednesday, July 22nd, 2009
by a tired, too-lazy-to-write Rach (a picture is worth a thousand words, so here's a few million!) Stratford-Upon-Avon, England It’s the Disneyland of British Castles and Just As Much Fun. We were there when the portcullis was raised in the morning and ... [Continue reading this entry]

william, beatrix, charlotte and arthur

Sunday, July 19th, 2009
by the older four children (edited by Rach, who took excerpts straight from their journals) Windermere, England What do those four above have in common? Anybody know? Read on to see…. Jgirl14 starts the story…. Shivering in the early morning wind that seemed to ... [Continue reading this entry]

from wet-n-windy to windermere

Saturday, July 18th, 2009
by Rach somewhere in The Lake District, England “No need to go any further, chaps, let’s build ourselves a wall right here,” declared Hadrian one wet and windy day. No history book will tell you this, but I reckon he had ... [Continue reading this entry]

good for a giggle

Wednesday, July 15th, 2009
by Rach, who does not like driving in the pouring rain with useless wiper blades that leave a smear at eye level and make her hunch over the steering wheel like a granny to see beneath it! beside a cricket ... [Continue reading this entry]

yes-n-no

Saturday, July 11th, 2009
by Rachael somewhere between Corbridge and Hexham, England A blog reader (hi Sharon!) writes: Hubby says "They must be getting sick of castles and ruins". I say "NO WAY!!" So, what's the answer? You’re both right! (diplomatic of me, huh?!) Today was a castle-less day, and ... [Continue reading this entry]