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“What do you write about on a day like today when we did nothing mum?” asked Kboy12

Thursday, October 29th, 2009

Krakow, Poland

Well, my dear boy, speak for yourself! YOU may have done nothing, but someone went to the market this morning to buy our food for the day.
So I could write about the things I saw, the conversations I had (people are so friendly and now that we’ve been here a week, and do our shopping on a daily basis, some of them are starting to recognise me and stop for a chat), I could write that I saw pineapples (last week I was saying there is nothing exotic like pineapple here), I could write about the secondhand clothes shops I pass along the way (the interesting factor to me is that they sell the clothes by weight).
But I’ll skip all that and just leave two photos of things I bought at the market before I write about what I had planned to.


fruity sernik on a chocolate base ~ m.mmmmmm


and smoked mountain cheese, an incredibly dense flavour-packed experience

Being a day spent mostly indoors at our hostel planning the Turkey leg (which, by the way, was far more satisfying than organising the Romania transport – possibly because we are ending up in what looks like a reasonable hostel in a great location in Istanbul, and partly because we have decided to hire a car and trip around for a few days and so now we have the excitement of choosing what to purge from a possible itinerary – Gallipoli, Troy, Assos, Pergamon, Ephesus, Helikarnossos, Aphrodisias,  Hierapolis, The Lake District, Konya, Cappadoccia, Ankara…..)…..as I was saying, having spent the day at the hostel, it seemed an appropriate day to take you on a hostel tour.

Here’s the view if you’re standing at the front door:

Here’s the front door itself underneath the yellow sign – and yes, the building does curve around that corner:

But we’re not staying in that exact building. We walk through that one, past a fancy staircase and the letterboxes, through a courtyard, and then into our building:

We’re up on the first floor in a very spacious room. The couch pulls out into a double bed, but it’s so short that we take down two mattresses each night for the adults and leave a small child on the couch.

There is plenty of storage – as well as this cabinet filled with our food and toiletries and shoes and books and wok, there’s another wardrobe (unphotographed) and the “laundry” you can see hanging on the heater. An altogether comfortable set-up.

Right next door is a kitchen and dining area with computer as well. Yes, it is that sickly shade of green. A contrast to the yellow walls and pink ceiling in our bedroom!

There’s bathroom, too, and toilet as well. Sharing with half a dozen other people, we’d have thought there might be queues, but we have been surprised to find it is perfectly adequate and only rarely does anyone need to wait. No picture!

So that’s where we are. It’s fantastic to be so close to the centre of town, and just a couple of minutes away from the market, tramstop on the doorstep, parks nearby.
What’s not so fantastic, something we had forgotten about, is that it is dark by 4:30. Yes, pitch black well before dinner. After eating later and later through the summer, we now find ourselves finished and tidied up and kids ready for bed far too long before seven to consider tucking them in for the night!
But it gives them time to do our homemade puzzles, draw their own maps, design houses and furniture, play games they’ve made up, write letters to me and even decorate paper for me to reply on. It also gave Kgirl10 time to hatch a cunning plan. It came in the form of a voucher, valid in any country in the world, for special food. However, it only works if she is given some of the bounty, and just in case I might be short on ideas of what to buy, she suggested sernik, kremowka or lollies would all make her very happy!

What did YOU do today Kboy12?
What did you find to write about?

Branching out from Biser…and Back

Sunday, October 4th, 2009

Biser, Bulgaria

Lunch in Harmanli, the only town we have been in so far where you have to drive up a no exit street right in front of the police station to get to the restaurant!
Staple mixtures of tomatoes, white cheese, egg and cucumber with the famous Bulgarian meatballs and long sausages and fantastically grilled bread.
Enjoyed in a leisurely fashion.
Countless games of backgammon and chess completed.
Relaxing.

All followed by a tiki-tour of Harmanli including last week’s pizza shop, the river, the gypsy quarter, the hotel/nightclub (definitely the fanciest building in town by a l-o-n-g shot, accessed only through the gypsy ghetto!), the church, our-friend-the- policeman’s apartment block, and more abandoned buildings than you would give one town credit for….including a four storey monstrosity which had started out its life destined to be an old folks’ home, but no-one thought to put a lift in it (now it is a concrete shell of floors and a few internal walls), and an even better one….a five or six storey grey concrete box with no stairs at all!

 

Harmanli has only one set of traffic lights, and as our jeep driver pointed out, “They have not been working since democracy.”

 

For all that, Harmanli is a delightful quirky little town caught in a fifty-year timewarp.

Back to Biser.
Because we have a social life!
Drinks with Elena at 5, to be precise. We are Bulgarianly-late; not much, but enough to make her wonder if we were serious about 5 o’clock meaning 6 o’clock!
Elena lives in her parents’ home on a section of about a third of an acre. In this space they grow a massive quince tree, keep bees for honey, a goat for milk and have a newly-acquired calf, not to mention growing vegetables, which are watered from their own well when the town water supply is erratic.
But we didn’t stay here for coffee. Elena  had organised for us to visit the virtually-next-door Tudor House (with its stunning collection of art relating to the two brothers, who designed the Bulgarian alphabet…..that’s what Nikolai was working on when he was killed in a road accident in England), and so the fading English garden became our “parlour”. That, and the bench on the roadside. Many of the ladies I had met yesterday turned up, and with Elena’s help, they received much more satisfactory answers to their questions!

It was dark by the time we trudged back up the hillock to home, a big bag of quinces and a homebrewed bottle of wine in our possession….but we knew the importance of not being in a hurry.

Dinner: potato out of a box (made with UHT milk from another box), German sausages out of a jar, green beans out of a tin and beetroot  from a jar. Adequate, even if not particularly nourishing!

Biser emBraces

Saturday, October 3rd, 2009
Biser, Bulgaria We’ve been here a week and haven’t even walked through the village. Unheard of for us! But in some ways it didn’t matter where we were right now – just had to be off Schengen territory and preferably ... [Continue reading this entry]

Philippi Fun

Friday, September 25th, 2009
Nea Karvali, Greece Some days are all-round good days. Today was one of them. Breakfast at the top of a ridge overlooking a lake and hills. Good morning driving. Easy roads. Fast times. Pastries and a delicious birthday cake for lunch, eaten underneath ... [Continue reading this entry]

the back roads

Sunday, September 20th, 2009
Itea, Greece Main roads tend to get you places quickly. Time not being of the essence, we prefer the back roads. Then you get to see the Corinth Canal, and pull over and get out of the vans and take ... [Continue reading this entry]

*most*

Saturday, September 19th, 2009
Athens, Greece Most people spending only two days in Athens, the ancient classical centre for the arts, learning and philosophy, the home of Plato's Academy and Aristotle's Lyceum, birthplace of Socrates, Pericles, Sophocles and democracy, yea even the cradle of Western Civilization, would ... [Continue reading this entry]

GREECE DISTINCTIVES

Saturday, September 12th, 2009
Beach south of Patra, Greece – waves breaking metres away from us (no, we didn’t get to Killini again today either – there are just too many nice beaches!!)

 

Even before breakfast, which we ate ... [Continue reading this entry]

it’s all greek to me

Thursday, September 10th, 2009
Beach Number 1, Greece

 

Being able to recite the Greek alphabet, a feat learned almost three decades ago and for some reason retained ever since, is of little help when your feet touch Greek ... [Continue reading this entry]

Rach’s Bikini Shot

Saturday, September 5th, 2009
Capitolo, Italy A friend’s request for what is stated in the title inspired today’s post. Read on only if you dare! Bikinis there are aplenty on Italian beaches. The little girls just wear bikini bottoms, but once they grow up, they ... [Continue reading this entry]

life’s a beach they say

Friday, September 4th, 2009
Capitolo, Italy there’s not much to say get up, have breakfast, do family devotions, complete chores (which doesn’t take long in such a small space, even including the hand washing), head for the beach return for lunch and naps and writing and ... [Continue reading this entry]