BootsnAll Travel Network



Archive for the 'parenting' Category

« Home

"road routine"

Thursday, November 27th, 2008

started by the tired parent, finished by the one who was up early stoking the fire!
Luang Prabang, Laos

We have been asked, “So how do you guys manage to travel around with a family AND maintain a blog?”

Back in NZ we had a regular gentle rhythm to our days – but travelling around, that has not been possible. At first we thought we would at least have three meals a day, which would provide some loose structure, but even that has proved an unrealistic ideal with unscheduled morning teas, afternoon teas, snacks and fruit samplings, not to mention special treats that it would be rude to refuse. Some days we eat so often the shorter members of the party have forgotten whether we’ve had lunch or not. Other days lunch doesn’t happen until 2pm. Mealtimes can not be counted on for continuity.

So here is what a typical day looks like for us:

We get up when we are ready.
We go to bed at some time.

That’s it! Can you tell I am in need of the second point above???

Nah, actually there is much less to it. Or is that more? Sounds like we couldn’t organise ourselves out of a paper bag, let alone keep from losing some kids eh! You wanna know the truth? We’re really sitting back in NZ and making up adventures each day to “write home” about. Easy-peasy!

Seriously, we are travelling with little kids, so that means two things – they need and usually get an afternoon sleep; secondly, they go to bed earlier than us adults, so there is some distraction-free time each day for us to journal and sit at the computer choosing which experience of the day to capture for posterity’s sake. Of course, the older kids do not sleep as early as the little ones – in fact, some nights they barely beat us to bed – and so a portion of each day’s “downtime” is spent chatting with them, playing games, and helping them with science or maths and correcting journal entries, but then they can be ignored I mean do what they want follow their interests. It’s not like we have TV or books (OK, so we have ONE!) or can go out for coffee together or get together with friends for a meal….and for the past three weeks we have had only limited and now non-existent internet at our accommodation.

When we had wi-fi, it was dead easy to write a post and publish it on the spot, uploading some pictures and checking email all at the same time. Since that luxury disappeared, we have typed at home and then done the rest of the process at an internet cafe – less convenient, but not impossible. As you may have noticed, some days four posts appear – that generally means we were unable to get a connection for a few days. We use that nifty little “timestamp” feature to keep our writings chronological, even if the rest of technology is not keeping up with us!

postscript inserted: on the day we first tried to publish this post there was no telephone or therefore internet in Luang Prabang all day – and on a day when we really wanted to see what is going on in Bangkok with both airports apparently being shut down with some anti-government protest.
and the next day we couldn’t get connected either…….
third time lucky

As for the writing itself, blogging often is actually just a rewriting of something we have already done in our journals (it is also a good discipline to keep uploading and sorting through photos as we go, rather than letting ourselves get days behind). We have journalled on an aeroplane, at train stations, by candlelight at remote hilltribes, floating down the Mekong…..these entries often find their way to our blog in some form or other.
The other thing is we have different responsibilities on the road. We are not required to clean the places we stay at, until our current stop we had been unable to cook for ourselves, Rob does not disappear to work for ten hours each day, there are no meetings or appointments.
Finally, there’s some advice we gave ourselves before leaving: just try to do one thing each day, go slowly. Problem is, we haven’t really taken that advice. If you’re in a pokey little room in a guesthouse somewhere on a main road, it’s nice to get out morning and afternoon, even if it’s just for a walk around the block to find food. And in those little rambles we keep seeing things we don’t want to forget! So we return to the tiny room and jot it all down.

We’re just living, eating, writing, enjoying. Not much to it at all!

mighty mekong

Saturday, November 22nd, 2008

By Rach, who ordinarily is not fond of boats, and was happy you could see land at all times

 

Jungle-covered hills rise up from the river. Crops of sweetcorn march in straight lines down to her edge. A reddish-brown ribbon stretches along the trees wherever a road winds through the jungle, occasionally releasing a red dust cloud behind a motorbike. Vines compete with banana palms and tall straight large-leaved trees to cover every spot of hillside not cultivated or cleared for an infrequent hut.
The river itself has amazing rocks poking up through the surface. They look as if they’ve been thrown down in a fit of anger by the gods and landed sideways. Massive white sanddunes line one bank, while directly opposite pinkish brown sand provides a home for vegetables to grow in. The water alternates between millpond flat and swirling eddies with white-water-rapid-like whirlpools. It’s brown. Dull. Murky.

Six hours of floating down the Mekong was preceded by four hours of preparations.
We had beaten the roosters at waking up! The goal had been to complete the 1.5km walk with packs on backs to immigration by opening time, 8am. Arriving at the office, we discovered we needed to walk another 2km! Where’s a tuktuk when you need one? Ferrying all the other tourists in town to the immigration queue ahead of you. That’s where.
Signing out of Thailand was easy; the official lived in the same lane we had been staying on and had seen us around and so stamped our passports without even sighting everyone – no other border crossing had been that simple.
Down to the river we scurried and piled all our bags and ourselves into a tiny, narrow canoe “ferry”. I think I might have been inclined to enjoy the ride more if Rob had not announced the rescue plan for if we went down! At least we weren’t wearing our packs like a girl in the next boat – apparently she was doomed to be dragged straight to the bottom. Comforting thoughts for one who doesn’t like being in water over her head.

On the Laos side there were twenty forms to fill in (literally) and US$310 to part with (glug). Everyone else was being charged an additional Saturday overtime fee, but we somehow managed to escape that one. Even if a sign says you should, don’t offer money that is not requested.
That only took a minute to type, but in reality the waiting lasted well over two hours, and as ER2 was having one of her more disagreeable mornings, it felt even longer in the blazing sun! Having been told there was only one boat and that it left at 10:30, we were not convinced we would be on the river that day, still being at immigration at 10:10. We raced up the hill, purchased boat tickets, waited for a tuktuk to take us to the pier, waited again at the pier for more formalities to be completed and finally tiptoed up the gangplank. Although we were among the last to board, we were fortunate to get some of the best seats right at the front of the boat away from the noisy smelly engine, and with a big space in between the seats to roll out a mat for the children to stretch out on.

The trip was very peaceful, chugging along at 23km/hr (yay for the GPS to tell us so!), a cooling breeze blowing through the hair, water lapping against the hull. Peaceful, that is, until….graunch. The engine sounded different, the water was swirling around madly and it took two men hanging off the steering wheel to keep the boat on course. All conversation on board ceased and collectively we held our breath, while a third crewman came running form the engine room shouting something unintelligible (to us). The three of them looked down the outside of the boat, exchanged some gesticulations and words, and Mr Engine Man returned to his post. We’ll never know what that was all about. By the second day, though, we will have worked out that the engine is quietened before entering the rough water and there are plenty of rocks just under the surface.

What does one say about six hours on wooden benches staring at scenery? It’s quiet, relaxing (when you stop worrying about losing someone over the edge), enjoyable, full of “look at that”s for the first few hours, scenery, scenery, scenery….when asked what the day’s favourite was, Mboy6 got in first with, “Going on the boat”, and Jboy12 was almost as quick with his, “Getting off the boat”. Neither of them were wrong!

 

The sun was setting as we pulled in to the pier (actually, that’s hardly the right word – the front of the boat was wedged against the sand and the gangplank was extended out over the water!), the last boat of the day to dock. By the time we were off the boat and had scaled the sand-dune, darkness had fallen.
Pak Beng is a little one street town rising straight up the hill from the river, existing, it would seem, entirely to service the boats, which are forced by darkness to spend the night there. It consists exclusively of eateries and guesthouses, the owners of which actively encourage you to give them business.
We find a bed, dinner and hit the sack. How can sitting on a boat all day doing nothing make you so tired?
At 10pm the entire town is plunged into instant and complete darkness as the generators are turned off. Our room is right on the road, but not  sound is heard all night. In fact, the town is eerily silent.

Escaping from our small dark room in the morning, we sit on the bench outside to eat steamed buns and bread rolls. A gaggle of locals descends on us and stops to stare. They are not a metre from us, following every mouthful! We eat, smile, share the first Lao words we have learnt and they keep staring!!!

I was wondering if a second day on a boat could be any different to the first, other than being, as we had been warned, longer. I was to discover it could be – on two counts. Firstly, the boat was smaller. Secondly, we put more people on! We started off with 108 passengers plus a crew of three, which meant, in our opinion, the boat was full – every seat was taken and some of our family were sitting on the floor. As there were cushions on the seats, it seemed it might be more comfortable. But not for long. Soon we were stopping to pick up another three passengers and luggage. But that was nothing. At the next stop we took on at least a dozen 50kg sacks of rice, which were piled in the aisle, and when that was full, were laid out on the ground space we had claimed for the children when they had given up their seats to adults. Twenty or so people accompanied the rice, each with their own bag or two. The boat sank submerged (no, it wasn’t quite that bad) dipped lower in the water, but it was still not packed up. There was still a large metal box to be handed over the side, and not one, but two motorbikes to be strapped on the front. Only then were we ready for a now-slower pushing away from the sandy shore. I’m sure all the farang (white faced foreigners) were certain the boat was now full, but this taxi was to make two more stops before anyone would get off to lighten the load. Are you seeing the picture? There isn’t an inch of spare space anywhere. Bags are on the roof, in the aisles, under seats, on laps. People are perching atop the rice sacks and in each other’s laps. Whatever position you were in when the loading began, you will be in for the next few hours – if one person moves, everyone has to move! Do you recall which end of the boat we are at? The very front. Guess where the toilet is. The back! This, of course, necessitates clambering over aforementioned rice sacks, bags and people for anyone who can not “hold on” for nine hours!
But, believe it or not, this was not all bad. The boat now sat more securely in the water instead of bouncing about. And it made for much more of an adventure, although I’m sure after sitting cross-legged for hours with two kids in his lap, Rob would have settled for less adventure and more comfort! His only escape was to do the toilet-trip, and while he was gone one of the less considerate men we have met stretched out in his space and went to sleep for the rest of the trip!

Again, just as the sun was setting (and an awesome view it made across the river sinking down below the mountains), we pulled up to the riverbank for the last stop of the day. We breathed a prayer of thanks and relief. Another day to remember.

trekking: an adult’s perspective

Tuesday, November 18th, 2008
taken from Rachael's journal with Rob commenting in italics

trek 1st night

It was surreal to be standing there slightly above most of the Karen village looking down at the smoke curling ... [Continue reading this entry]

parenting in public

Sunday, November 16th, 2008

by Mama

When you read this we will be in the midst of our most public parenting adventure so far - spending three days and two nights with a group of people we don't know trekking through the hills around ... [Continue reading this entry]

Did I say I liked overnight train travel?

Saturday, November 8th, 2008
by Rachael It's a good thing our first train overnighter was a positive experience, because our second is turning out to be a shocker - enough to put you off train travel anywhere!

From ... [Continue reading this entry]

Bangkok Birthday

Thursday, November 6th, 2008
by Rachael

Even before we left, there were two days I was dreading; the day we come home and the day Grandpa leaves us in Bangkok. Thankfully, one is still a long ways ... [Continue reading this entry]

straight from the end of the world

Saturday, November 1st, 2008
by Rach

train tracks looking out the back window of the train As expected, the train left an hour late. Standing on the steaming platform, Rob couldn't help himself commenting that this was ... [Continue reading this entry]

living on stilts

Tuesday, October 28th, 2008

Rach writes

stilt village 12

stilt village 1

stilt village 4

At the end of ... [Continue reading this entry]

Taken for granted…

Sunday, October 26th, 2008
Rob musing this time..... It is one of those unfathomable quirks of human nature that we find it so easy to lose sight of the big picture and get tangled up with the minutiae of a situation. Why is it ... [Continue reading this entry]

WorkWorld meets FamilyWorld

Saturday, September 20th, 2008
“So is your house always this tidy or did you guys have to spend the whole day fixing it up for us?” The question was fired past the mother to the children, a smile on the face of the asker, ... [Continue reading this entry]