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waiting

Sunday, January 25th, 2009

by Rach
Ho Chi Minh City to Vung Tau, Vietnam

The other day we had to wait while Rob went two minutes round the corner to the bus company office. Over an hour later he returned. Then we needed to wait another 15 minutes while he took a motorbike ride……which actually took another hour and a half. By the end of that time, those of us who had been sitting at the entrance to the guesthouse for the duration were a) a wee bit over watching conical-hatted ladies, motorbikes, tall stacks of books (no, thank you, we cannot buy a book, no, not even that one, no we have no room for books in our backpacks, sad to say), sunglasses sellers (no, thank you, we do not want any, no, not even real raybans) and limbless beggars (sorry, no) and b) a wee bit concerned….I ran out of possibilities of what might have happened with which to reassure the children and so I sent Jboy13 out onto the lane with the camera. He came back with some shots to distract the mounting anxiety.

Today we had to wait for the hydrofoil (coz we were machines and even loaded up with packs we powered up the road so fast we had plenty of time to spare).

Then there was more waiting as we looked for accommodation. All we knew about Vung Tau when we arrived was that “Front Beach” has the expensive accommodation and “Back Beach” is full of cheap digs. Taxi driver assured us he knew BB…and then proceeded to take us to a particular guesthouse that was well beyond the price tag we had given him. Who knows if we were at Back Beach? Admittedly, nothing looked expensive, but neither was anything cheap. Our Cambodian Cynic Meters were running on high again as the proprietors of different establishments on the same street conferred together before deciding upon a price for us. They left us standing on the road waiting for the answer to our question “room how much?” while they ran up and down the guesthouses for a handwaving chat. Initially we secured two rooms at  reasonable rate for two nights. Then there was more waiting for most while some of us went off in search of beds for the remaining three nights.
The big problem is that it’s Tet and prices don’t just increase, they don’t even double, they go from 200,000 to 2,000,000 for a night <insert eyes-popping-out emoticon>
A block away we managed to find someone who was not in on the preliminary beachfront discussions and her increase was nowhere near as severe and did not kick in until two days later. 250,000 to 800,000. We have taken two of her rooms for two nights  and then we’ll all squish into one room at four times our budget for our final night.

Speaking of Cambodia and cynicism, which automatically leads to thoughts of money, reminds me of one more waiting incident. Yesterday morning I realised I had been overcharged to the tune of 46,000Dhong the previous evening and so I toddled off down the street in the hopes of retrieving it. I am an optimist, you know. And we had got the chess set back! Overly Apologetic  Lady told me to wait until the evening, then come and talk to the guy who might remember me (a distinct possibility – how many people would have been buying ten pottles of yogurt and four large baguettes?!) So we waited. And returned. And got our money back. Victory!

There was victory for the rest of the gang too. They have all suffered from various sicknesses at least once each so far and had been waiting with eager anticipation for the Iron Stomach Mother to fall. They thought the fateful day had arrived a couple of weeks back, but staying in bed with a good book resulted in health. So they waited.  And waited. And waited. Yesterday she conceded defeat with the occurrence of a single bout of Da Trots and they all went out for a Victory Walk. Look what they saw:

Good Morning Vietnam! (or motorbike mishaps)

Friday, January 23rd, 2009

by Rob, the owner of only one motorbike, and even that did not go
Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam

 

As soon as we crossed the border we knew Vietnam was different. We went from a life expectancy of 58 to 70+. We went from villages to cities. But the vast majority of the 85,000,000 citizens live rurally and so there was plenty of rice paddy to race through towards the heaving moving mass of humanity called Ho Chi Minh City (or Saigon by anyone not official). With double the population of New Zealand in this one urban metropolis, it hums. Bangkok was big, Phnom Penh never stopped, but this was BangPenh on steroids.

We drove through a good portion of the city in our bus, then it ground to a halt and we noticed our bags being unloaded onto the street, and even though none of the yellow faces on board were making any move to disembark we felt compelled to. In the mad scramble that ensued, we left on board our family-souvenir-from-Asia, a newly purchased carved chess set.

We discovered this about half an hour after the bus had dropped us off as Rach and the older kids were searching out lodgings. So when they returned, having found a guest house, we quickly took our bags to the rooms and I went in search of the bus company office, which amazingly enough was just around the corner from our guest house. Not surprisingly, the address turned out to NOT be a formal office, but I was directed twenty metres down the road to another tour office. Thankfully I found someone there who spoke English, and I explained our predicament, and asked if they could ring the bus company to see if our bag could be located. Yeah, right! I was not at all hopeful. However, forty minutes later, and after no less than six phone calls by the helpful Vietnamese Tour Company Owner to various individuals (the bus company initially said they had ‘lost’ the driver of the bus – how do you do that?!), I was given an address on a piece of paper and told to take a motorbike there and ask for a Ms Ling, who was holding our bag for us. Hardly daring to believe our good fortune, I raced back to the rest of the family to tell them the news.

This was where the real adventure began. Our guest house owner helpfully flagged down a passing motorbike, explained our situation and negotiated a return price for our rescue mission – US$3 for a 15 minute ride. I managed to squeeze into the one-size-fits-all-asian-heads helmet, and got on behind the elderly gentleman driver. Before I knew it we were off. For about ten minutes we snaked and wove our way through peak hour Saigon traffic. Then my driver pulled over and indicated he wanted to see the paper with the address. Scanning the address, then the closest road sign he shook his head. Then he drove on another hundred meters to another motorcycle driver sitting by the side of the road. A conversation in Vietnamese followed with much waving of arms, shaking of heads. Then the driver turned around and said, “This address not here. Much further. Will cost more to go”.
Hmmm, wasn’t this the ploy Lonely Planet talks about being a favoured tactic for ever-entrepreneurial drivers in HoChiMinh? But what are you going to do? This time… nothing.
“OK – let’s just go,” I smiled.

What followed was literally an hour of pure surreal amusement. It soon became clear that my dear driver did not have the faintest idea of where the address was. We stopped to ask directions from at least fifteen different people. No 8 Dong Thai Thien, P11, Q5 was the goal. We pass by Dong Thai Phan, Dong Thai Buen, before he finally drove down Dong Thai Phien. By now I had worked out that the 11 and 5 referred to city sections and blocks. I had also stopped being anxious about being on the back of a motorbike in peak hour traffic and was partly enjoying the ride, although my hands were getting sore from gripping the only handhold behind my seat!! This Dong Thai Phien was in P11, Q16. I also now knew that the reading literacy levels of my driver were limited. He stopped outside number 8, which was a small business with metal gates, heavily locked and closed – it looked like it had been that way for several years. I tried to explain to my driver that the section and block numbers were different, AND that this was Dong Thai Phien…not Dong Thai Thien. He just looked at me, pointed to the closed building and said, “This it!” My hopes of seeing our chess set fizzled away. I patiently tried to explain that this could not be the address.

By now a sizeable crowd had gathered around the two of us – perched on a small Honda motorbike in the middle of the street. No one spoke English, but I managed to get the driver to use his phone to call the tour company that had given me the address originally. He gave me the phone, and amazingly, after being put on hold three times I managed to speak with the lady, who had given me the address, and asked her to confirm the address with the driver. I handed the phone back to him. What was said on that call, I will never know. All I know is that the driver started up his bike again, moved off through the crowd of onlookers and drove back the way we had come for ten minutes or so. He stopped again to ask someone for directions. I was telling myself that I should just get him to return me to the guest house when he drove down another road – I noticed the sign ‘Dong Thai Than, P11, Q5. I started telling the driver “No, this is Thai THAN, not Thai THEIN. Wrong street!” He pointed to #8 – which I then noticed was a bus tour office. THE bus tour office. Thirty seconds later I had our lost bag in my hands. It appears that the address I had been given was wrong after all! We drove back to the guest house in about ten minutes… and I was so relieved at having retrieved the bag without incident (if you discount the three close-calls!) that I gave the driver a healthy tip. How could you blame him if the address was wrong – even IF he had no idea of where he was going!

That was my introduction to motorbikes in Saigon.
Later that evening I would walk to the train station in the dark and discover that when the sun goes down even more bikes come out to play. They don’t care if you are walking on the footpath – they just honk right along. Now I am not talking about the occasional bike zipping past. I mean a solid stream of bike coming hurtling at you, the pedestrian. But I don’t think you quite understand yet. This bike wall is six bikes abreast. Yes, the footpaths are wide, but honestly, they might as well not have any at all!
By the time we got home from this hair-raising adventure I had decided we would not be able to leave the guest house. Ever.

Perhaps I shouldn’t have let the dawning light change my perspective. Then Rach would not have had an up-close-and-personal encounter of her own! She and Jgirl14 had waited two and a half minutes for the road to clear so they could cross (they know it was that long because they were timing the walk for future reference). Finally there were only two bikes coming. The bikes passed and the girls stepped out. Straight into the path of an oncoming motorbike – one coming up the wrong side of the road, and they suspect one of the many, who drive with their heads pointing behind them (curiously, J14 had just been commenting on that variety of driver) – he did not scream until after the impact, which makes them think he anticipated the crash as little as they did. Rach extricated her slightly twisted leg from between the pedals and front fender and the driver disappeared into thin thickly-polluted air. An old man rushed over and put his hand up in front of the surprisingly-stopped and considerable-again traffic. J14 strode and Rach tried to not hobble across the street and a couple of blocks later surveyed the damage – just three red impact marks and bruises colouring nicely. Doesn’t seem right that it can be so sore and have so little to show. Maybe tomorrow….

Good morning Vietnam!

what’s with the rubbish everywhere?

Sunday, January 11th, 2009

by someone who tries to create as little waste as possible Phnom Penh, Cambodia

Do people not see it? Do they not care? Are they so used to dropping ... [Continue reading this entry]

fit for a king

Saturday, January 10th, 2009
from Jgirl14's journal Phnom Penh, Cambodia Years ago I had a durian lolly. It was bad enough to be spit straight out and put me off durian and all things related forever. Today, with Mr Lim's expert guidance, this changed. We met ... [Continue reading this entry]

interrogation

Thursday, January 8th, 2009
by a lone female Phnom Penh, Cambodia He pulls out his red and white striped truncheon and with his other hand pointing down towards the ground, fingers scooping the air as if they're doggy-paddling, signals me to come closer. Great. It's the first ... [Continue reading this entry]

Cambodia Quiz

Tuesday, January 6th, 2009
by one who can't help but teach Phnom Penh, Cambodia You want to buy bread rolls. You look for:

food in our tummies and a roof over our heads

Thursday, January 1st, 2009
by a surprised traveller Phnom Penh to Kampot, Cambodia  Expecting to be picked up just before nine, we were cutting into our breakfast watermelon at a quarter to eight when the guesthouse staff apologetically announced at our open doorway that the ... [Continue reading this entry]

culture of corruption

Tuesday, December 30th, 2008
by someone, who hasn't quite got over it yet Phnom Penh, Cambodia

 

Unfortunately it makes us suspicious and a little cynical. Way back at the border, the tuktuk drivers tried to tell us that Cambodians are ... [Continue reading this entry]

*S*O*S*

Monday, December 29th, 2008
By Mama, who was peaceful and prayerful  Phnom Penh, Cambodia

"It was a rather un-fun morning. It felt really weird being able to open my eyes, but not see."                                                                               ~ Kgirl-almost10 Today's plan to visit the Killing ... [Continue reading this entry]

*chop*chop*

Friday, November 21st, 2008
from J14's journal

To prevent ourselves from looking like cavemen we sought out a local barber. This did not take too long as there was one not 50 metres away at the end ... [Continue reading this entry]