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crafty goodness

Saturday, December 6th, 2008

By the Family’s Knitter
Luang Prabang, Laos

 

From December 1-6 Luang Prabang is hosting the first ever Handicraft Festival, which has been organised by the lady we stayed with the first night. She has been instrumental in bringing together a group of crafters to share thoughts, designs and business ideas to preserve and promote local handwork for future generations. They opened their festivities with a Fashion Show, including the current Miss Lao, the province’s governor (he both gave the opening speech and paraded up the catwalk), cute children, a local dance troupe and a stunning array of locally-designed and made costumes. Just between you and me, the evening would have been a greater success if they hadn’t started an hour late (although maybe the lady we went with had her details wrong) and if the ratio of speeches to catwalk action was reversed from 10:3. Not that the thousand-strong crowd seemed to notice the speeches – they chatted right through them all!

We had been intending to not buy any souvenirs, but one aunty gifted the children some money and so we have ended up with some gorgeous handmade gear from both Thailand and Laos. If we were at the end of our trip, about to head home, we would definitely be buying more! Time to show aunty what her Christmas money has gone towards……..no made in China plastic junk!

The clothing is multi-size and should last a few years!!

These are second-hand Hmong materials refashioned into something the tourists will buy – there was a very funky rooster that would definitely bring back memories for us, but the little girls loved their elephant ride so much…and the toys were supposed to be for them 😉 The Hmong ball will provide a tangible link between our reading about the New Year dances with seeing them in real life – besides, it’s fun to play with now.
(Jgirl14 bought herself a cross-stitched backpack instead of clothes).

Balls were being sorely missed, and when another backpacker turned up with a rattan one from Thailand, our boys set out on a mission to find their own in Laos. Our guest house owner had told them they would probably need to pay between 15,000 and 20,000 kip. They didn’t even think to bargain when the first price offer was 10,000!!  And the lady generously gave everyone a miniature one too. Only photo is an action shot tkaen on the banks of the Mekong with some local kids – try to spot da ball:

Jgirl14 has always wanted bagpipes, and the guy on the side of the road was selling, among other things, something very bagpipe-ish, so we were surprised when J14 started negotiating for the simple pan flute. Luckily it doesn’t wail like a cat bagpipes!

insert photo here – oops haven’t taken one!

Crossbow. Need I say more? A month later the boys still can hardly believe they were allowed to bargain for this one!

JINGLE BELLS

Monday, December 1st, 2008

By Rachael
Luang Prabang, Laos

 

* jingle jingle * jingle jingle *

The silver coins decorating skirts, shirts and head-dresses clink together with every step, announcing the arrival of striking black-and-bright-rainbow-pattern-attired Hmong people. Wherever they walk, you hear them. Wherever you see them, there’s a display of intricate needlework. Exquisite!

Our neighbour’s husband had squished us into his tuktuk, with Mboy6 perched on the motorbike and we struggled to the outskirts of town. No ONE motorbike was ever designed to carry eleven people, but this one chugged along, coasting down the hills.
We knew when we were near the site; apart from an overabundance of tuktuks, there were more and more costumed people walking along the road.

Down a dirt path, over a couple of simple wooden bridges to a clearing in the forest…..and there they were. Two long lines of unmarried Hmong youth, throwing balls and oranges to each other, just like we had read in “Tangled Threads”. Another surreal moment, a privilege to be here.

Less satisfying to see – and although we watched the preparations, we refused to observe to completion – was the cock fight. I hold to the view that “it’s just their culture” is not an acceptable explanation for all-and-any behaviour. Imagine if Gladys Aylward had said that – millions of Chinese women would still be hobbling about on bound feet today.
Roosters are not human, and they do so crow, but they still deserve to be treated with respect. And so I turned my back on the man-only-crowd, and was pleased when Rob called the boys away, sharing my exact sentiments. 
Far better to admire the expertise and devotion stitched into the clothing. Or to sit down to a bowl of noodles (no tourist prices here!) Or to join in the simple replica-entertainment from the music festival the other night. Mboy6 was delighted to win an orange juice – neither he nor Jgilr14 had expected each of their three darts to pop a balloon!

 

Through the jingling crowd we wandered back up the hill to the waiting tuktuk. As we read recently, a little known advantage of being in a Buddhist country is that at the end of November, you are not already tired of hearing jingle bells….and this jingling was something special.

 

backtrack

Sunday, November 30th, 2008
Luang Prabang, Laos while internet access has been intermittent (that's a generous term for "non-existent for three days") in Luang Prabang, when we have had it, it's been FAST, so we've uploaded our pictures from the hilltribe trek we did ... [Continue reading this entry]

real life learning

Friday, November 28th, 2008
by an adult who keeps on learning Luang Prabang, Laos That's what we're into as an educational philosophy and methodology....and where we are staying right now is a perfect environment.

 

We have the top floor of ... [Continue reading this entry]

trekking: an adult’s perspective

Tuesday, November 18th, 2008
taken from Rachael's journal with Rob commenting in italics

trek 1st night

It was surreal to be standing there slightly above most of the Karen village looking down at the smoke curling ... [Continue reading this entry]

poetry parade

Wednesday, November 12th, 2008

Jboy12 copies from his journal....(including the poem he penned).....

Tonight I will remember....always!
If you weren't there (and if you're reading this you weren't), I will help you to be there in your imagination.
You are watching a parade with people ... [Continue reading this entry]

Bangkok Contrast

Wednesday, November 5th, 2008

central bangkok 1

central bangkok 3

central bangkok 10 

There's a Bangkok that is large and ... [Continue reading this entry]

24 hours

Tuesday, October 7th, 2008
by Rachael We bounced out of bed at 5am on Monday......and crashed into new beds halfway round the world a full 24 hours later, none of us having grabbed more than a few minutes of sleep in between. Although most of the ... [Continue reading this entry]

wrapped in love

Monday, September 29th, 2008
Dolls had not made it to the list of Things To Take With Us. Not even for the barely-out-of-toddler-hood pair of sisters. But how could we leave these behind?

One dark-haired, one blonde, just ... [Continue reading this entry]

olympic glory

Monday, August 18th, 2008
Had our very first plans for this trip come off, we would have been in China by now. Along with most every other tourist in the world. But I suspect we've seen more of the Olympic ... [Continue reading this entry]