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play your heart out

Wednesday, May 13th, 2009

by the idealistic Mama
Berlin, Germany

“What will you remember about Berlin, other than waiting waiting waiting?” I asked.

We *should* be answering things like the amazing glass structure that is the Central Station or the middle-of-the-city-zoo or the Brandenburg Gate or Checkpoint Charlie…
But we haven’t made it to any of those places yet, and it will be a few more days before we do! Life has been consumed with cooking for large numbers of people, struggling through beauracracy, sorting out Womos, bantering with pros and cons of different options, baking bread (that’s our loaf, the round one in the picture), finding more accommodation, buying pots and pans, playing house again, stocking the cupboards, doing washing……

And so we will remember

  • the fire engine sirens
  • the graffiti
  • the blossoms billowing like snowflakes
  • the bicycles honking in cycle lanes (that some family members STILL walk in)
  • the Turkish market
  • couchsurfing
  • playgrounds

Ah, yes, playgrounds.
Apparently Berlin has the most green space out of any European city and we can well believe that. There is a park on every corner, and in many of those parks are children’s playgrounds. Ordinarilly, I am not a huge fan of playground equipment, which tends to be limited in its scope for imagination….but maybe that’s just in New Zealand. Berlin playgrounds are different. For a start, there’s no cotton wool safety – it’s all adventure and danger!! German children are allowed to climb high, swing high and spin out of control. It sounds not too different to our backyard – except there are squirrels running along the branches and different bugs and birds to watch.
Another PLUS for Berlin is that very little of the equipment is plastic. It’s no secret that one of my many soapboxes is *use natural renewable materials whenever possible*, and it’s just so smooth and warm to climb sturdy wooden structures. Maybe silly of me. But I do think children who grow up in a plastic environment somehow miss out on tactile experiences, so I appreciate these playgrounds.

We have picnicked in the parks, played Go Home Stay Home with couchsurfing hosts and had plenty of kids-play-while-Dadda-does-business hours too.

We’ll definitely remember Berlin as the place of playgrounds.

And look at this:

When we got to Moscow we saw the first blades of green grass we had seen for quite some time. When we moved a little further west we came across grass we were not forbidden from stepping on. By the time we got to Germany there were people sitting on grass in public spaces everywhere and we felt quite at home. But this particular park still awed me with its greenness after a few brown months.

Humpty Dumpty sat on a wall

Sunday, May 10th, 2009

by Rach, the ponderer
Berlin, Germany

We need to recite a few more nursery rhymes as we travel; Tgirl5, who was thoroughly familiar with the traditional version of Baa Baa Black Sheep at home, has obviously forgotten the words and now with poetic license and great flourish sings, “One for the little boy who lives down the drain.”

As for Humpty…….

It’s hard to imagine living in political bondage across the street from someone with freedom. West Berlin on one side, East Berlin on the other. And then one day the cold hard fact is made more explicit – up goes a wall. Just a wire fence actually, but it won’t be long before it is replaced by a cold hard concrete wall, an impenetrable concrete wall.

It seems strange. The wall actually surrounds the West, the free zone. Rather than being a wall to keep people in, it is expressly to keep people out – those East Germans, to be precise. But still, it imprisons inhabitants – although they do have the airport to escape from (if they have enough money). But as they have freedom, perhaps they do not wish to escape. It’s the East Germans, anyway, who were escaping. But the wall put an end to that. And those who tried were shot. Simple.

Nowadays you can follow the course of the wall for its entire 160km right through and around the city. Stones set into roads and footpaths mark the entire route in longlasting commemoration (just like the plaques you’ll see in front of some buildings, giving the names of Jews who were arrested at these addresses and who subsequently perished in concentration camps). A few sections of the wall remain, bearing witness to the events of the past, to ideologies, to a revolution won.

We climbed the observation tower, each new level reached, allowing a wider and wider view over No Man’s Land, across the wall to the other side. Did those who tried to escape realise exactly what the guards could see? How desperate were they? How frustrated at having their windows and doors boarded up, at having their lives watched in constant surveillance, at suffering events completely outside their control?

It’s twenty years since the wall came down. New commemorations are underway. In Alexander Platz a massive exhibition of posterboards displaying photos captioned in deutsch and English, with some television screens and glass-cased realia like suitcases and a teddy bear used to smuggle thousands of deutschmark  out of the East, relays the story of the wall. As you read and look at the photos, a loud chanting erupts and goosebumps appear on your arms. You can hear the passion, the fervour, the intent, even if you cannot understand the words. You look round for the source. Loud speakers high above you; it might just be a recording, but it is quite unnerving. There you are looking at photos taken right where you are standing, the tower in the photo just to your right, the building beside it, still there today. Gone are the queues of people, gone are the demonstrating hordes, but you can easily imagine what it was like. Especially with the revolutionary rabble broadcast down from above.

 

Our wall sightings and exhibition wanderings take place over a few days. We walk by, we look, we ponder and it strikes me that what is history here, is current events in other parts of the world. We have seen (and been surprised by the sheer number of) surveillance cameras in public spaces in China. We have noticed the complete absence of outward observance of any religion other than saffron-robed monks in Laos. We have talked with Cambodians afraid, but willing to fight the system they were born into. And we have not even come close to the truly persecuted.

Freedom is not yet universal.

Er ist angemeldet

Thursday, May 7th, 2009
by a relieved Rach Berlin, Germany YIPPEE!

That's right - Rob is registered in Deutschland. He can live here forever. The rest of us can only stay three months, but that is immaterial right now. More ... [Continue reading this entry]

yawn

Wednesday, May 6th, 2009
by Rach Berlin, Germany more of the same ol’ same ol’ For a start, Berlin is just like Auckland – showers interspersed with heavy downpours. Grey clouds all day. We’d forgotten about rain (and how nice it was to do so!) We ate black ... [Continue reading this entry]

booklovers

Tuesday, May 5th, 2009
by the mama-book-lover Berlin, Germany We haven’t had much literature and so now we are feasting. Grandpa is reading a book he had been waiting to find at the library in NZ for months. Jgirl14 and Jboy13 have spent two days negotiating time ... [Continue reading this entry]

berlin beginnings

Sunday, May 3rd, 2009

by Mama
Berlin, Germany

We arrive at 7 on a Sunday morning.
Everything is closed and will remain so all day, apart from the flea market we zip off to ... [Continue reading this entry]

some quick transit thoughts: Latvia to Germany, through Lithuania and Poland in 21hours on a bus with an alcoholic

Saturday, May 2nd, 2009
by the Mama, who gave away her jacket-pillow in the middle of the night overnight (and all day for that matter) on the bus from Riga to Berlin

It would seem a little unfair to make sweeping generalisations about an ... [Continue reading this entry]

colliding worldviews

Friday, May 1st, 2009
by the accommodation-sorter Riga, Latvia On The Bus There’s something about sitting next to a non-stop chatterbox for five hours! For a few minutes, as Tgirl5 processes observations that the rest of the world is not exactly like our family, the conversation goes ... [Continue reading this entry]

crafted

Thursday, April 30th, 2009
by a crafter Tallinn, Estonia What a wonderful array of handcrafted items – and what’s more, you can even watch the masters at work. For you wool-workers out there, you would have loved this shop. Just look at all those hand-knit socks ... [Continue reading this entry]

hardly famous

Wednesday, April 29th, 2009
by Rach Tallinn, Estonia How do you explain reasons for a world trip, your goals for sustainable living, home education (“No, actually, we don’t use a programme”), and what we think of religion (well, the interviewer did ask) all in half ... [Continue reading this entry]