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moving again

Wednesday, November 11th, 2009

Budapest, Hungary

Our final day in Krakow is Independence Day. Undoubtedly there will be a big parade. Patriotism runs rife here. There will be red and white flags flapping, national costumes, brass bands, pomp and circumstance.
But it’s pouring with rain, absolutely bucketing down, and we make the decision to remain hermits in the hostel; we’re going to get wet enough walking to the bus station this afternoon. In over thirteen months, this will be the first time we have been stuck unavoidably in pouring rain with packs on our backs. Can’t complain really.

And we were right. There *was* a big celebration. As we stumbled along the puddle-filled cobblestone streets for the last time, we were not alone. The parade-goers were all heading home, still clutching their flags. The police were still stationed near important monuments  – remember the horse monument we walked past on our first night? As we left, it had an enormous flame burning in front of it, and the metal barricades were in the process of being removed. We definitely missed something.

But we gained something else. Obviously that day it had started snowing in the mountains and the children got to see for the first time what it looks like when snow is just beginning to fall – how the green grass still pokes through, how there are big dark shadows underneath trees, how it sticks just a little to the road signs, how you can still see the different patterns of tiles on roofs, how the trees are gently outlined. Further on was the deeper storybook snow similar to what we saw coming across Russia. And, just like back then, everyone wished aloud that we could STOP. 


please excuse photo quality – through foggy window on moving bus with snow falling outside

But public busses don’t stop. Although sometimes they DEPART half an hour early, even without all the passengers. And sometimes they double-book seats. At least, those are the experiences of some other people, who had previously used the company we picked. Our budget dictated that we take the risk – and make it to the station with plenty of time to spare. Our decision was well-rewarded. What a surprise; here was the nicest (by far) bus we have been on. Airline-style seats and overhead lockers, free hot drinks, onboard toilet for urgent cases (heehee), DVDs with personal headsets, smooth driving and a half-hour early arrival.

Good-bye Poland, hello Hungary (albeit briefly).

Quote of the day: ”My bed’s got bones in it.” ~ ERgirl3, who clearly did not appreciate the luxury of an innersprung mattress.

dooo-do-do-doo

Tuesday, November 10th, 2009

Krakow, Poland

She heard the whoosh of the car racing at breakneck speed through the puddle.
She turned to see who, on that busy street behind her, would wear the splash.
It turned out to be her!
The car had sounded as if it were further away, but no.
Funny really, coz at that exact moment she was traipsing up the street wondering about how to use a blog post written a few days earlier. She was contemplating saying that although it was written on a bright sunny day, ever since then it had been drizzling or down-pouring. She was considering commending the decision to bring wet weather gear, thankful that having needed to use it only a few times up til now, we were now feeling justified in bringing it. Rain jackets are the kind of the thing that take up a lot of space (a whole backpack’s worth for our family), are hopefully not used often, but are invaluable when needed. They’re not too dissimilar to an insurance policy; reassuring to have, but you hope you won’t need it. This week alone – in fact, this puddle-splashing episode alone – made lugging them through forty degrees plus for months on end, all totally worthwhile.

Today we watched/listened to the trumpeter play his stirring tune – twice! It is another one of those surreal experiences to realise you are witnessing a tradition, which has been performed for almost a thousand years with a break only during the second world war (or is that an urban legend? I’m not sure). Every hour since the early Middle Ages a golden trumpet has emerged at the west window of the dominating St Mary’s church on the square and played the famous-in-Poland piece of music, the Hejnal Mariacki. It is then played to the north, south and east as well, and at noon is now also played on national radio. But for the last seven hundred and fifty years it has never been completed; the final note has always been left off, allegedly in honour of the trumpeter, who was killed by a Tatar archer in 1241, shot through the throat by an arrow as he played. (Sad, as the story is from a Polish perspective, if you think of it from the Mongol’s point of view, their guy was a good shot!) There’s an irony in that – the trumpet call was used to warn the townspeople of attack by outsiders. It was also sounded at the opening and closing of the city gates, to inform of fire (such as the great fire that destroyed a large part of the town in the 1400s) and of course, as a timekeeper too. Whenever we are in the Rynek (market square) on the hour, we are compelled to stop and watch, and today, to wave. The trumpeter even waved back! And some of the children mulled over theories of why the trumpet call should sound so much clearer today than other time we have heard it (hint: first clear sunny day, no fog or mist or drizzle to muffle the call). It was a truly fascinating observation to the more scientifically-minded amongst us, a theory they tested on further (always dismal misty) occasions.

 

The next time we read “The Trumpeter of Krakow” aloud (excellent book – do get it!), the kids will have their own memories and experiences to bring to the book, instead of just my old-memory descriptions. Now they have walked down Pigeon Street themselves, they have heard horses hooves clip-clopping on the cobblestones, they have been to the Small Square and the university, and they have heard the tune, so integral to the plot of the book.

If you’d like to, you can click here to hear the bugle call for yourself too. I’d suggest you pour a glass of tea while you wait (just like in Poland, where tea is drunk from glasses sitting in special metal or wicker holders), because it will take a minute to load. Don’t worry – you won’t mistake the call for your whistling kettle.

a stroke of culture

Monday, November 9th, 2009
Krakow, Poland What do you do when you turn up in a country where you don’t speak the language and very few people speak English? Well, I don’t know what you would do, but we went from door to door in ... [Continue reading this entry]

grey

Sunday, November 8th, 2009
Krakow, Poland

Our ... [Continue reading this entry]

Best. Ever. Bigos. (OR “I never cooked with vodka before”) * and also an addendum about pickles just for the fun of it *

Saturday, November 7th, 2009
Krakow, Poland

 

Prepare at least three days before needed! Preferably make a huge portion and leave it sitting on your balcony all winter long. 1kg fresh white cabbage, shredded finely 1t salt    Place in a heavy pot ... [Continue reading this entry]

u Stasi

Friday, November 6th, 2009
Krakow, Poland We peered in through the fogged up windows. Yes! There were a few little tables with wooden chairs, yes there were coathooks on the wall, yes, there was the tiled hatch to put dirty dishes through, but more importantly, ... [Continue reading this entry]

it’s surprising he came with us at all

Thursday, November 5th, 2009
Krakow, Poland “We should take a picture for Grandpa!” ”And one of the sticker too” ”I know! Why don’t you put it on your ear?!”

It all started in Mongolia. We stayed in gers, and gers are ... [Continue reading this entry]

boys need daddies

Wednesday, November 4th, 2009
Krakow, Poland Look how nippy it was this morning:

And last night it was –11*C in Brasov, where we are soon headed, so everyone is hoping the forecast snow will be a biggie! Anyway, I digress, ... [Continue reading this entry]

if salt loses its saltiness…

Tuesday, November 3rd, 2009
Krakow, Poland There’s an object lesson in today’s expedition. A Scripture or two to reflect on. But we haven’t yet. We were too busy writing a story. Jgirl15 came up with the outline and then frantically scribbled the main ideas ... [Continue reading this entry]

cookin’ up a storm in a teacup

Monday, November 2nd, 2009

Krakow, Poland

“When we get back” conversations emerge occasionally now, and on one particular occasion turned to chores. I was most excited to discover that my workforce has now reached such proportions that I find myself almost entirely ... [Continue reading this entry]