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The Joys of “Disappointment”

Monday, October 30th, 2006

Bad maps, erroneous information, tourist rip-offs all have managed to lead to some of my favorite experiences lately.

—-Last night, a friend and I were heading to a cabaret show, sure that we could get a cheaper price at the door than the “package deal” the tour offices were selling. Well, turns out they charged dollars (yes, that’s significant now) more at the door than with the package that included transportation and free drinks. Feeling frugal, we scoff and move on in backpacker-style snobbery. Feeling famished–or “peckish” in the Brit’s terms–I remember that the foodcourt in the nearby shopping complex was mentioned in my Lonely Planet. All other descriptions long forgotten. Imagining the Asian equivalent of food courts at home, we wander past shops and up escalators toward “Food Alley,” expecting to find greasy stalls, drying buffets, and over-stuffed garbage cans. Instead, we walk through a gate and are each handed a credit card. Huh? And where’s that music coming from? In front of us, white and sparkly are a dozen openair “kitchens” serving various international food. You order, they prepare, and hand it to you. In white porcelain dishes. Which you then carry to your table with placemats and attentive servers. Who’ll cork your bottle of wine if you like. While a live band with a stand-up bass plays Sade and Beatles cover tunes (“La da deeee, la da daaaa”). What?!? Once the shock subsided, I was more aware of really how great the food was. And my dessert! A bright pink dome with gold flakes and chocolate curls, raspberry chocolate decadence washed down with cappuccino. Turned out to be infinitely more satisfying than high-kicking transvestites.

—With full intentions of hitting a flower/plant market and a park up the road, I got unbelievably lost (I heard that unsurprised snicker!). My colorful pictorial map only has 1-2 street names, worthless anyway since most names in reality are just written in lovely squiggles (หนทำรืเ สรา รห๗). A nice Thai stops to help when I’m flying my map kite. Manages to inform me that because of special “Promotion Week” today’s the last day that tuk-tuk drivers will drive you all around town for only 20 bat to several top tourist destinations–temples and such. (“You read paper? You watch news? What, you been sleeping?”) So, I spent the next 2-3 hours with a private “guide” around town (who, by the way, knows exactly where everything is), for exactly 54 cents.

I love it when things don’t “go your way.” : D

Heat Stroke Stream of Consciousness

Friday, October 27th, 2006

New room, air pleases, but stepping out’s a greater whack. Amazing efficiency of bathroom plumbing–“dump and scrub” stalls with the shower nozzle mounted right on the side. Too much stuff, fills my cubby, what might those “We Buy Everything” street folk take off my hands? Blowdryer’s first to go—what was I thinking?!?—and maybe snacks can be bartered for Spring Rolls. Licked my dad’s orange chocolate bar from the wrapper though. My sister would be pleased how, biteless, this allowed for “respecting the chocolate.” So many sounds yesterday—chimes in the Wat Phra Kaew, nice soundtrack for the overwhelming ornateness and calm worshippers. Horns honking, tuk-tuks slowing next to the sidewalk: “Yes?” Legs of lead, I’m easily seduced by the windy motorbikes. The late night cacophony–cheering, hip hop, loud murmurs under my balcony–blissfully buffered by ear plugs (those can stay) to allow for a hard sleep. Images too, floating like suspended “stupas” from the temples jutting into the sky. Buddha, reclined, seated 394 times and ways behind glass, or imitated by a creepy Ronald McDonald on Khao San Road. Worshippers—lighting candles, incense, tapping heads with lotus, dropping tiny coins into tinkling bowls, bowing, peeling gold flakes, offering sodas and cigarettes. Learning that, socially, every Thai male is expected to become a monk for a period–week to lifetime–explains their proliferance around town. Maybe now I can stop stalking them for photos. Vendors filling the Vegas-like strip of Khao San Road. Braids, skirts, tattoos, noodles, bugs, jewelry, journals, belts abound. Hard to peel my eyes from the absurd squeaky duck who sticks his tongue out and the flask-sized lighters that would torch your hair if you actually used them. Nothing unnoticed, we have lines of duck and flame vendors, sure they can break my resolve for these obviously coveted items.

P.S. Photos up and secret “hidden” ones in this post. ; )

Lazy day in Bangkok

Thursday, October 26th, 2006
After 30 hours, airport to airport and only a few odd hours of sleep (from 4 to 8 am) I figured I'd give myself freedom to move very very slowly through my first day in Bangkok. I think it ... [Continue reading this entry]