EJ's Travels

Here I am reporting live from McMurdo Base Station, Ross Island, Antarctica. My journey to get here began at Denver International Airport on Tuesday, October 4th. I was scheduled to board a plane at 4:19pm, which I did, but due to an inoperable transponder on the aircraft, I de-boarded the plane an hour later. We were fist told that there was no replacement aircraft available and that we would need to meet with an agent to see about finding space on another flight bound for Los Angeles. This seemed a potentially difficult proposition since there was an entire flight full of people needing the same thing. It was also a bit of an inconvenience considering I had two connecting flights yet to catch. Thankfully I was not alone in that respect. There were 23 Raytheon employees on that same flight out of Denver. Huge relief!

While in line to speak to an agent we received the good news that a plane had been found, however, we were going to have to wait for a flight crew. This meant we would miss our connecting flight out of Los Angeles (bound for Auckland, NZ) by 30 minutes or so. Oh well, at least we were getting that far. We took off from Denver at 8:30pm. Minutes before touching down in Los Angeles the captain’s voice informed those of us with Raytheon Polar Services Company (RPSC) that Qantas Airlines was holding our plane for us in LA. I guess one could argue that since there were 23 of us that had seats on that plane, it made good sense for them to wait, but I got the feeling that it had much more to do with the influential power of Raytheon. I couldn’t decide if that was frightening or comforting. But then, we (RPSC) are their (Qantas) biggest customer. Quite honestly I was relieved, but I boarded the plane apologetically feeling awful for all of those who were forced to wait for our arrival. I took my seat next to a skydiver from Chicago who was on his way to NZ to work for the winter. During the safety talk he informed me we were safe if the plane went down because his parachute was right above us. I slept on and off for the next 12 ½ hours until we landed in Auckland.

There was one more flight from Auckland (NZ – North Island) to Christchurch (NZ – South Island). Looking out the windows on New Zealand below I was reminded of what an amazingly gorgeous and diverse country it is. Out one side of the plane I found the South Island’s west coast, where luscious green meets tranquil blue. The opposing window offered a view of rugged white capped mountains for as far as the eye could see. The two were mere miles apart from one another. I found it hard to believe that 4 years ago I had wandered across this striking landscape on the seat of my bicycle. Had I not been able to recall so well the sights, smells and sounds as I had experienced them from aboard my two-seated friend, I would have thought the feat impossible from my vantage point above.

Antarctica is the highest, driest, coldest, windiest, and emptiest place on earth. An ice sheet covers approximately 98% of the continent. At its thickest point the ice sheet is 4,776 meters deep. The ice is approximately 90% of all the world’s ice (by volume) and is 70% of all the world’s fresh water. There are many penguins and abundant sea life along the coast, but there is little life on the continent, and there are no indigenous peoples.

The mean annual temperature at McMurdo Station is 0 degrees Farenheit, while it is -56 degrees Farenheit at the South Pole Station. The weather at McMurdo is divided into 3 classes which determine work and travel restrictions. Condition 3 is defined as having wind less than 48 knots, wind chills warmer than -75 degrees Farenheit, and visibility greater than ¼ mile. This is considered the NORMAL weather condition in McMurdo. Condition 1 is defined by having 1 or more of the following conditions: wind speeds greater than 55 knots, wind chills colder than -100 degrees Farenheit, or visibility less than 100 feet. Only mission critical travel is permitted in this condition. Condition 2 falls somewhere in between. We work in Condition 1 & 2.

No nation owns Antarctica. The Antarctic Treaty, which has been signed by 45 countries, reserves the area as a zone for the peaceful conduct of research. McMurdo Station is the largest US research facility in Antarctica. It is located on the southern tip of Ross Island and lies 2,415 miles south of Christchruch, New Zealand, and 850 miles north of the South Pole. The National Science Foundation, through the United States Antarctic Program, coordinates US scientific research in the Antarctic. Research performed in and around McMurdo includes marine and terrestrial biology, biomedicine, geology and geophysics, glaciology and glacial geology, meteorology, aeronomy, and upper atmosphere physics. During the austral summer the population of scientists and support personnel at McMurdo often exceeds 1,100 people. In the austral winter, the population drops to roughly 250 people.

My job title while here is Vehicle Operator or Shuttle Driver. I am “responsible for maintaining a safe, friendly, and timely shuttle and taxi service.” My essential duties and responsibilities are to “operate shuttle service vehicles on varying road surfaces in inclement weather conditions with consideration for passenger safety.” Vehicles include 12 passenger vans, passenger deltas, airport passenger shuttles, and a 56 passenger Terra Bus.

The job includes providing Scott Base (the Kiwi station) shuttle service during the Ice Runway phase; providing morning and evening shift change for the 109th AW personnel; providing on call taxi service and assists with dispatching calls during office shifts; performing bellboy pickup service upon request; picking up and dispersing flight lunches for all passenger flights as required; picking up and transporting all passengers and flight crew members to and from the airfield ramp; and conducting tours for the USAF C-141 and C-17 crew members.