EJ's Travels

A few weeks back the 11th annual McMurdo Marathon took place. Even crazier is that for a few participants, it was their first marathon ever! Lucky for everyone the conditions the day of the race were perfect. However, given the extreme possibilities, I have great respect for those who were either bold or naive enough to commit themselves to such a feat. I was unaware that skiers were allowed to participate or I might have dared join the ranks. Instead I woke to wish the racers well and then skied out to Willy Field at my leisure to cheer them on along the way. My friend, Dan, who told me before the race that he was going to resist running out front for fear of bonking, was the third person to reach the break station at Willy, falling behind two racers on skis! He managed to stay strong, finishing first on foot. It was a victorious day for all who participated. Everyone who started the race, finished. All with a smile.

The starting line at Pegasus airfield

Dan with an early lead

Frosty Alan!

Eric’s 1st marathon

The following weekend the Americans met the Kiwis on the rugby field. Each year the Americans have high hopes of being the first team to defeat the Kiwis at their native sport. The men and women of the McMurdo team seemed particularly driven and determined this year.

I walked with a few of my girlfriends to the rugby field where we joined an anxious crowd wrapped in layers of warm clothing. The opposing teams took their places across from one another on the field. I noticed one of the Kiwis on the front line, Lucas, begin to grunt and stick his tongue out and roll his eyes back while imitating a bull before charging a flag. Soon the rest of the team joined him in the traditional Maori war dance known as the huka. It was impressive and intimidating, not to mention mesmerizing. After a few minutes of taking it all in, the American team joined arms in a straight line and began marching forward slowly in what appeared to be an attempt to signal a welcome to their challenge.

The Americans, god bless ’em, put up a worthy fight. The Kiwis only scored once and although it was ruled incomplete the Americans came excitingly close to tying the game. Cheering from the sidelines I was sincerely impressed with the spirit our team displayed. Rugby is a brute game, much more so than American football with protective gear. But this didn’t stop even the smallest of players from diving into the pack. They all played their little hearts out. The Kiwis admitted this was the toughest competition they have had in years. Granted, we had been practicing all season for this game while the Kiwis didn’t have a single organized practice! However, just learning the rules of the game takes months and remains a mystery to many, including a few of those that were out there defending our honor.

The American team in transit to the rugby field!

The Maori huka dance

The Kiwi fans

The American fans

Me & Amanda trying to stay warm

Ball at their feet

Take down

Almost!

Go Black!

Both teams after the game

see more of my photos at: http://ej.smugmug.com

Occassionally seemingly important people decide they want to visit Antarctica as well. This year a group of Senators and Members of the House of Representatives graced us with their presence. Senators John McCain, Susan Collins and John Sununu along with 10 representatives comprised the lucky group.

Prior to their arrival the waste bins were removed from outside the buildings (one of the NSF representatives finds them distasteful) and each one of us townies was required to spend a couple of hours “daisy picking,” more commonly referred to as picking up trash. How Orwellian is that? Once off the plane the DV’s, as they are commonly referred to, receive special transport in spotless and relatively comfortable vehicles, stay in housing that separates them from the working class, take day trips to treasured locations such as the South Pole and the Dry Valleys, and generally speaking get treated like royalty.

I suppose this wouldn’t annoy me so if these *distinguished visitors* paid their own way like any other tourist. Instead, these royal folk get one hell of a boondoggle on our tax dollar. This fact is particularly bothersome to me because these guests are actually elected to represent *we the people* and to protect our rights as citizens. Yet here they are on a free ride to Antarctica visiting a base where taxation without representation exists. That’s right, labor laws are NOT enforced here. And I’ll never understand why *we the people* insist on refusing to allow our elected officials to experience this place (or any other for that matter) as the common folk – whom they represent – do. But, then, there is an awful lot I don’t get.

Of course with my attitude it goes without saying that I would be the one “lucky” enough to transport these DV’s from their plane at Pegasus airfield back to town. On the way out I had the company of 3 of the NSF Polar Research staff members. As we arrived at the airfield and sat waiting for our cue to approach the plane, one of the NSF members said to me,

“I’m not sure how to say this, but, do you know what your hat says, and do you want to be wearing that today?”

Earlier that morning I had dressed for just another day in Shuttles, but little did I know I was going to be representing the town of McMurdo as the DV’s rolled off the plane. Of course I knew what my hat said… FUKENFREEZIN ANTARCTICA. And, yes, it is what I wanted to be wearing. All the more so now that I was being more or less told that I didn’t. Yes, still stubborn and defiant at 32. I explained that as distasteful as my hat might be, my hair underneath would be even more so. He then suggested that I turn my hat inside out.

“It’s up to you,” he explained, “I just wanted you to be aware.”

Right. I sat stewing over this little interaction as I drove to the plane arguing in my head as to what I should do when my friend, Emily, a reporter with the Antarctic Sun who was also on board, offered for me to wear her hat. I didn’t feel like I could decline the offer under the circumstances. So, off came the hat. I’m certain even US Senators and Members of the House have a sense of humor. In fact I bet a few of them would have even inquired as to how to get their hands on a hat like mine. Well, at least the one who, after a few beers with his constituents, thought it would be funny to depants and moon his adoring fans.

McCain boards the Airporter as I stand outside and take roll call before letting each one board.

Christmas in Antarctica. A long way from the North Pole, not so far from the South. Although on opposite ends of the globe, I imagine Santa & his helpers would feel right at home in these parts. [Continue reading this entry]