EJ's Travels

There has been a slight change in my original plans.  Instead of a month of leisure in New Zealand to recharge my batteries and plan for the year ahead, I made a hasty decision to adjust my itinerary in order to meet up with my friend, Susi, in Namibia as soon as possible!  And because the only choice with our return ticket if we’re not going to use it is to trade it in for an around the world ticket, I did.  One of the stipulations of such a ticket is that all my travel has to be in one direction around the globe.  This meant that I couldn’t fly from New Zealand to Africa and then back to Asia.  So, instead, I am heading east.

After two days of mad errands in Christchurch I flew to Auckland on the north island with my friend, Eric.  We rented a car and drove north to explore the Bay of Islands.  Eric had also cycle toured through New Zealand years ago, and like me, he had not spent any time on this northern most tip of the island.  We only had 5 days so we made the most of it and were on the go for the entirety of the trip.  We wanted warm and we wanted coastline.  We got both.  Not to mention stunning scenery.  Sand beaches.  Gorgeous harbours.  GREEN countryside and forests.  Tranquil blue seas.  Sailing and snorkeling.  Swimming the surf.  Eating green mussels.  Falling asleep to the sound of the ocean.  It was wonderful.  Sadly I can share none of the visual beauty with you.  Eric’s camera stopped working while we were still on the ice and mine decided to die as soon as I got off of it.  Maddening I tell you.

Eric and I said goodbye in Auckland.  He flew back to Colorado for a couple weeks of training and then returns to Antarctica for the winter at Palmer station.  I flew to Sydney, Australia, where I was met by my friend, Sam, who I met while cycling through New Zealand 5 years ago.  He was on an around the world adventure when I met him.  When he hit Australia he stopped.  Instead of returning home to England, he decided to take up residency in Sydney.  He has a lovely apartment just two blocks from the beach.  I am enjoying the quiet.  Catching my breath.  Tonight we met up with my friend, Dom, who I met in Switzerland 9 years ago!  I saw him last time I was here and it was wonderful to reconnect with him and his partner, Steven, once again.

Dom, Steven, Me, Richard & Sam

Only a couple more days of familiarity.  Continuing east, on Monday I fly to Punta Arenas, Chile, where I will spend two and a half weeks exploring Patagonia and the southern reaches of the country and will end my stint in South America with 5 days in Buenos Aires.  From there I connect through Madrid (Spain) and then Johannesberg (South Africa) continuing on to Windhoek, Namibia.  There I will join my friend, Susi, who I also met while cycling through New Zealand.  She lives and works in Namibia giving guided tours of the game parks and land.  I couldn’t pass up the opportunity to visit Africa when I have a local guide.  I will spend a couple of months there before continuing on to India in mid June.  All of this could change between now and then, but this is the plan as it stands now.

I’ll be sure to keep you abreast of any changes.  😉

see more photos at: http://ej.smugmug.com

As the end of the season approached we anxiously kept our eyes on the horizon waiting for the Russian icebreaker, the Krasin, to appear in the distance. The Krasin was contracted this year to carve the channel in the frozen Ross Sea that would allow the cargo vessel, the American Tern, and the tanker, the Lawrence H. Gianella, to arrive with their precious cargo. It was difficult to grasp the notion that a ship would soon be docked at the pier that all season appeared to be just another frozen piece of land. But, no, in fact it was not land, it was ice, and below it, sea.

Ship offload. This concludes the summer season in McMrdo. The cargo ship brings much needed supplies and the tanker carries fuel. The NAVCHAPS (U.S. Navy Cargo Handling and Port Group) join the community to assist in the process. Town becomes organized chaos.

The Krasin did at last arrive. And it was an impressive sight. Unfortunately it experienced some mechanical difficulties which delayed its ability to escort the other ships to station. Fortunately this meant my dear Russian friend, George, would have time to give me and a few friends an exclusive tour of the mighty vessel.

The Krasin en route to McMurdo

The Krasin at sea

The Krasin at the pier in McMurdo

Tour guide, George

Me being a goof ball

Notice small hole in the ice with ladder leading below…
Divers working on the broken prop below

Meanwhile rumors were flying around town that the South Pole station might stay open longer than expected. This possibility along with the late arrival of the vessels meant that none of us were going to leave as soon as we had expected. It is remarkable what a couple of weeks difference can do to the psyche when one is ready to move on. The new most popular question was, “when are you redeploying?” The greater majority of folks were all too anxious to get back on that C-17 and begin their onward travels.

In the end the Krasin was fixed and the vessels arrived just a couple days late. Our original departure dates were honored and the goodbyes began in rapid succession. Monday, February 13th, instead of transporting pax to the airfield, I took my seat in the front cab of Delta 363, with Shuttle Amanda at the wheel, and my mates Bert and Eric on either side of me. The snow which had begun unexpectedly an hour earlier was growing thick and heavy. Visibility was poor. It was starting to look like we weren’t going anywhere anytime soon. We waited eagerly for word of the C-17’s arrival knowing that if it landed, it would then take-off. As we approached the airfield the tail of the plane came into view. I gave a huge sigh of relief.

It was odd to board the C-17 once again knowing that this time I was leaving Antarctica behind me. Probably for good. This recognition made me a bit sad I suppose. It truly is a wonderous and unique place that few will ever see. How is it I was one of the lucky, or shall I say privileged, ones? Who knows. But I’m awful thankful I was.

Yet, reluctant to leave I was not. When I stepped foot on that plane I was nothing short of elated! I was ready for the next leg of my journey to begin. And begun it has!

But wait, first I must at least acknowledge what pure joy it was to step off the plane in Christchurch and find darkness awaiting me, stars twinkling above me, humidity saturating me, warmth enveloping me, organic smells overwhelming me, the sight of small people (otherwise known as children) and animals surprising me. From sensory deprivation to sensory overload. It was magnificent.

see more photos at: http://ej.smugmug.com

Remember when the "harsh condiments" won 1st prize for their costumes at the Halloween party and were promised a boondoggle for the prize? Well, we all certainly remembered, but we were quite certain Recreation had forgot. We were also convinced ... [Continue reading this entry]