Offload
As the end of the season approached we anxiously kept our eyes on the horizon waiting for the Russian icebreaker, the Krasin, to appear in the distance. The Krasin was contracted this year to carve the channel in the frozen Ross Sea that would allow the cargo vessel, the American Tern, and the tanker, the Lawrence H. Gianella, to arrive with their precious cargo. It was difficult to grasp the notion that a ship would soon be docked at the pier that all season appeared to be just another frozen piece of land. But, no, in fact it was not land, it was ice, and below it, sea.
Ship offload. This concludes the summer season in McMrdo. The cargo ship brings much needed supplies and the tanker carries fuel. The NAVCHAPS (U.S. Navy Cargo Handling and Port Group) join the community to assist in the process. Town becomes organized chaos.
The Krasin did at last arrive. And it was an impressive sight. Unfortunately it experienced some mechanical difficulties which delayed its ability to escort the other ships to station. Fortunately this meant my dear Russian friend, George, would have time to give me and a few friends an exclusive tour of the mighty vessel.
The Krasin en route to McMurdo
The Krasin at sea
The Krasin at the pier in McMurdo
Tour guide, George
Me being a goof ball
Notice small hole in the ice with ladder leading below…
Divers working on the broken prop below
Meanwhile rumors were flying around town that the South Pole station might stay open longer than expected. This possibility along with the late arrival of the vessels meant that none of us were going to leave as soon as we had expected. It is remarkable what a couple of weeks difference can do to the psyche when one is ready to move on. The new most popular question was, “when are you redeploying?” The greater majority of folks were all too anxious to get back on that C-17 and begin their onward travels.
In the end the Krasin was fixed and the vessels arrived just a couple days late. Our original departure dates were honored and the goodbyes began in rapid succession. Monday, February 13th, instead of transporting pax to the airfield, I took my seat in the front cab of Delta 363, with Shuttle Amanda at the wheel, and my mates Bert and Eric on either side of me. The snow which had begun unexpectedly an hour earlier was growing thick and heavy. Visibility was poor. It was starting to look like we weren’t going anywhere anytime soon. We waited eagerly for word of the C-17’s arrival knowing that if it landed, it would then take-off. As we approached the airfield the tail of the plane came into view. I gave a huge sigh of relief.
It was odd to board the C-17 once again knowing that this time I was leaving Antarctica behind me. Probably for good. This recognition made me a bit sad I suppose. It truly is a wonderous and unique place that few will ever see. How is it I was one of the lucky, or shall I say privileged, ones? Who knows. But I’m awful thankful I was.
Yet, reluctant to leave I was not. When I stepped foot on that plane I was nothing short of elated! I was ready for the next leg of my journey to begin. And begun it has!
But wait, first I must at least acknowledge what pure joy it was to step off the plane in Christchurch and find darkness awaiting me, stars twinkling above me, humidity saturating me, warmth enveloping me, organic smells overwhelming me, the sight of small people (otherwise known as children) and animals surprising me. From sensory deprivation to sensory overload. It was magnificent.
see more photos at: http://ej.smugmug.com
Tags: Travel
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