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Mardi gras, New Orleans

Sunday, March 13th, 2011

March 8th

Mardi gras is a legal holiday in the state of Louisiana, and my stepdad, Ken, got a surprise day off to come and watch the parades and join in the festivities with us. Fabien and I are early risers (you have to be when you sleep most nights in a tent) so we were up and about by 9AM. We caught the beginning of the Zulu Parade on local TV. We headed in to New Orleans around 10:30 to our parade spot from the previous day. We were shocked when we saw the masses of people. Entire neighborhoods had sectioned off parts of the parade route and set up their tents and industrial size BBQs for a day of partying. We were about 5 hours too late to get our front row spots, so we camped out for awhile in Lee Circle behind one of the big installations- but most of the beads didn’t get to us there- we did catch a football though. We got some sausage po’boys and beer and made our way down the parade route where we got better views. We caught the end of the Zulu parade, which was less impressive artistically than the parades from the night before but had a definite party atmosphere and lots of loot (or good throws.) Then we saw the Krewe of Rex, which is one of the most traditional and favorite parades. They first introduced the Mardi gras colors in the mid-20th century. They had beautiful floats with a Victorian England theme. After Rex, came the trucks, or the floats on truck beds which were also an impressive site. We were maxed out on parades so we headed towards Canal Street and the French Quarter. Lots of people were in costume, anywhere from elaborate Carnival masks to your typical Halloween costumes (like Frankenstein’s bride.) Some locals had actually made their own miniature floats and were toting them around with groups of friends. Bourbon Street was even more chaotic than we saw on Monday- and there was a lot more flesh showing. (I guess the fact that it was a warm, muggy day influenced the choice of what to wear and what not to wear.) I thought that the general atmosphere was less charming than on Monday- we didn’t hear a lot of live music, but for sure people were having a good time. We stopped off at the Crescent City Brewery for some beer and a break for our feet. Finally, exhausted, we made our way back to the hotel around 6 in the afternoon. Fabien and I went to the American Diner (next door) for dinner- I had a meatloaf sandwich, and then we met Ken at the pub for a beer. We didn’t have a wild drunken Mardi gras, but we had a great time. You have to be there to really understand the vibe. And now for those who are following Lent, the fun is over, but for us, Cajun country is the next stop on the trip.

Lundi gras (that means “Fat Monday”,) New Orleans

Saturday, March 12th, 2011

March 7th

Our main objective was to catch a few of the Mardi Gras parades and soak up a little atmosphere in New Orleans. We were expecting large crowds of people and were a little worried about the parking and safety situation. We decided to drive in to New Orleans around 10 AM and park near the Superdome, which was both close to the highway and within reasonable walking distance of the parade route and the French quarter. When we arrived at the Superdome, we saw some “floats in waiting” parked outside and found some deserted parking garages. We didn’t want to leave the car in a deserted place, so we drove around until we found a garage manned by an attendant. When we asked him how much it was for the day, he told us “It’s Mardi Gras, it’s free.” That was the first big surprise. This part of the city felt relatively empty. When we got to St. Charles street, we saw the remnants (beads, hot dog wrappers and beer bottles) littering the street from Sunday’s parades. They had set up bleachers (with pay-for seats) for parade watchers, but there were plenty of spots to stake out a space for free. It was a little early to get our parade spot (the first one was scheduled for 5:15pm) so we continued towards Canal Street and the Waterfront. The Zulu Social Aid and Pleasure Club organized a “Lundi Gras” festival on the waterfront complete with 3 music stages and lots of good home-cooking so we hung out for a while listening to some jazz and traditional rock-and-roll. We also saw the king of their parade (which we saw on Mardi Gras morning), known as “Mr. Big Stuff” dressed up in a feathered headdress. From there we stopped at Jackson Square to watch some break dancers and walked through the French Quarter to the French Market where they had a special “Carnival Masks market” of handmade masks in feathers, ceramic and leather. There was also live music (It’s hard to find a street corner without some form in entertainment in the French Quarter. Many of the homes and hotels were decorated in the Mardi Gras colors. We finally arrived on Bourbon Street which was packed with people. The cheap daiquiris and beer (and projectile beads) must have distracted them from the putrid smell of trash and spilt beer. I guess we were still too sober, but Bourbon Street didn’t have the same charm of the surrounding streets at this time of the day.   

Around 3:00, we headed back to St. Charles Street to stake out our parade spot. We walked down to Lee Circle which had a large grassy area and a nice view of the parade route. We camped out on the grass with a local newspaper and beer (discretely hidden in a brown bag, though I doubt anyone cared) waiting for the parade to start. There was a nice breeze, but as the sun went down, it got very chilly. We watched the locals unloading their gear- chairs, coolers, ladders (so the kids could see over the heads of the adults.) Some of the ladders were painted in bright colors and elaborately decorated for the occasion. The first parade, organized by the Krewe of Proteus finally got to us around 6:30pm. The parade began with a marching band and men on horseback and foot carrying flaming torches. The theme was Egyptian mythology and the mythical sea creature floats were exquisitely painted. The parade lasted for more than an hour with each float led by a band and riders. In addition to the traditional beads, they threw illuminate seahorses to the onlookers. The second parade was organized by the Krewe of Orpheus. Orpheus started with people in miniature cars and other strange vehicles. Their best float was an enormous train with New Orleans music. Around 9pm, we were freezing and exhausted from being on our feet all day so we headed back to the hotel for a restful evening before another day of of New Orleans fun.

Four states in one day; Destination: New Orleans

Saturday, March 12th, 2011
March 6th
It was a grey, damp Sunday morning and we had to dry out our gear before packing it up and getting on the road. We decided to do a short run through the sandy marsh ... [Continue reading this entry]

The Florida Panhandle and her surprises

Saturday, March 12th, 2011
March 4th-5th
Instead of taking I-10 to Pensacola, we opted for the scenic route along the Emerald Coast. The Florida Panhandle between Panama City and Pensacola is named the Emerald Coast for it's snow white beaches and ... [Continue reading this entry]

More alligators and a little Florida history

Wednesday, March 9th, 2011
March 2nd-March 4th On March 2nd, we departed Jacksonville for the 2nd time, this time for the "big trip" that will take us around the States for the next six months. Our first stop was Wakulla Springs, about 20 miles outside ... [Continue reading this entry]

North on Highway 95

Wednesday, March 9th, 2011
On February 28, we left Pompano Beach and headed up the 95 towards Jacksonville where we would spend a couple of nights with my mom taking care of administrative stuff, washing the car (it was starting to look rough) and ... [Continue reading this entry]

February 27- Miami Beach, Fun in the Sun

Friday, March 4th, 2011
It's Sunday morning, 80 degrees and sunny outside, what choice do you have but: go to the beach?  You could find worse beaches than South Beach in Miami Beach. Fabien and I got back on the 95, and headed toward South Beach. ... [Continue reading this entry]

February 25-26 Highlands Hammock SP to Delray Beach

Thursday, March 3rd, 2011
The day after the shuttle launch, we spent the morning enjoying Highlands Hammock State Park in Sebring, Florida. Unfortunately, our calm primitive campsite was invaded by some guys ready for a party weekend. They drank and talked until the wee ... [Continue reading this entry]

February 24: Last launch of the space shuttle Discovery

Monday, February 28th, 2011
The first time Fabien came home with me to Florida (October 2004) we spent two days visiting the Kennedy Space Center. He was enthralled by the exhibits on space exploration (I was too) and stayed until he had absorbed every last ... [Continue reading this entry]

Nature and Culture…Tampa, Florida to Highland Hammock State Park

Thursday, February 24th, 2011
I woke up feeling amazingly motivated this morning and went for a 4 1`/2 mile run on the Florida trail, a wilderness trail following the Hillsborough River. It was stickier than I expected, but I'm finally feeling like I'm back ... [Continue reading this entry]