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The perspective has not been changed

Sunday, October 19th, 2008

Fenghuang, China

Steve and I have been in Fenghuang, an adorable little touristy town in the middle of China for 6 days now. I haven’t been writing much partly because we haven’t been doing much. It’s been a wonderful little break where we’ve slept in, watched movies, read books, and generally been lazy. We’ve now finished both of the China books we brought with us–“Oracle Bones” and “Wild Swans.” We both really loved Wild Swans. It was a very sad but probably very accurate history of China covering the not so distant past. I didn’t particularly enjoy Oracle Bones. Partly I didn’t like the writer’s writing style. He was a journalist and a lot of the book reads like a cross between a newspaper article and someone in the middle of Creative Writing courses. I had quite enough of journalism in college and more than a lifetime’s worth of creative writing courses in high school (I went to an art school where I majored in it…). It just bothered me. There was a lot of interesting facts and theories throughout it, though, so I stuck it out. But in the end it was a disappointing mish-mash of half-stories that never really concluded and fragment sentences that were supposed to be profound. I wouldn’t recommend it (even though it won some literary award, so what do I know, right?). We picked up a couple of classics while in Shanghai–Crime and Punishment for Steve and Jane Eyre (which I’ve surprisingly never read) for me. I’m looking forward to some nice fiction that’s completely unpolitical.

The first day or so in Fenghuang we walked around the little town a lot taking pictures and enjoying the sunshine. The town is situated around a river where one of the ancient city walls still stands (probably reconstructed, but I can’t remember). This used to be just a quiet little town where two ethnic minorities lived and fished, but now it’s become a tourist destinations for tons of Chinese. We’re still quite popularly on display with lots of ‘hellos’ and not-so-subtle photo and video ops (including another posed shot with two college-aged girls). Sometimes it’s fun and entertaining, but sometimes it gets a little old. I had the misfortune of getting my boat soaked in river water one afternoon when we were sitting by the river eating yogurt and cake (we wanted ice cream, but you can’t find it anywhere in this town! It’s completely baffling. It makes me want to open up and ice cream shop. I think I’d make a killing in yuan). People wash their clothes, vegetables, and mops in the water and one woman decided to put her mop up to dry directly up the hill from where I was sitting. I had to walk back through the crowds with a very wet arse, the whole time dodging photos and hellos and generally feeling crappy. But usually it’s just very cute and funny, and Steve enjoys saying hello back which causes lots of amusement on all sides (he usually does it in a funny voice, which makes it more fun for us).

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Chinese French Toast Torture–lost somewhere in Central China

Tuesday, October 14th, 2008

Changsha, China.

I feel so behind on the blog! It’s Mongolia that did it. We were away from computers for so long, and then with traveling back to China and moving on from Beijing right away I didn’t have time to really sit at a computer until it’d been a week or so. A lot (but nothing terribly interesting) has happened since we left Beijing. The night train turned out to be one of the worst nights of my life. We got the soft seats, which sound pretty pleasant especially after so many night buses of dubious quality in South America. But it was terrible. We made sure to leave the hostel 2 1/2 hours before our train so that we had plenty of time to take the subway to the station and figure everything out. When it was our turn to board we confidentally walked down the platform starting from a car in its late teens and walking down the way towards the beginning of the train since our car was #1. We got to the end of the platform and we were at car #2. So logically we should get on this car and walk through it to car #1. Nope. Car #1 was at the exact other end of the tran. After car #20. What a bunch of crap. I still don’t understand it. It was completely ridiculous. So now we had to walk all the way back down to the other end of the platform with Chinese people running past us making us incredibly nervous. When you don’t understand what’s going on or being said people running is a bad sign. But we just walked quickly determined to just jump on any car if the stupid train started moving. But we got to our car safely and got on to find out seats. The next strange thing was that our seats weren’t beside each other but across the aisle from each other. The seats were arranged in pairs on each side of the aisle and every other pair had at least one person in it. We had no idea how to ask someone to switch us seats and we highly doubted anyone would trade their window seat (which you could lean against) or their two seats to themselves (which you could lie down on) for an aisle seat by someone else. The next bg surprise was that oru seats didn’t recline. Not at all. At first I thought this was because our seats had a sort of glass wall behind them, but when I looked around none of the seats reclined! What’s going on? It was ridiculous. How are you supposed to sleep in a seat that not only doesn’t recline but that is rigidly upright. I’ve never sat so upright in my life! I tried putting my neck pillow on, but it just pushed my head forward into my chest! It was miserable. I barely slept all night, and when I did manage to pass out I’d wake up shortly there after in some incredibly uncomfortable slumped over position with parts of my body I didn’t know existed throbbing! I’m getting older, I think. My body can no longer comfortably slump. What a horrible night. I remember waking up at one point thinking it had to be close to sunrise and asking Steve (who just accepted he wouldn’t be able to sleep and was reading–something I’ve never had to accept since I sleep so well) what time it was–3 a.m. 3 a.m.! We weren’t arriving in Shanghai until 7. I had four more hours of torture before we could get off. I was not happy. And to make things worse the guy across from me (who had two seats to himself) was happily downing a six pack and rocking out to his headphones in a wife beater t-shirt while staring at me. For hours. I knew before coming to China that it’s acceptable to stare and that people were going to stare at me, but this was a little too much. Every time I’d wake up, he’d be staring. And he was facing me with just a little table between us.  I was exhausted and angry and frustrated by the whole fact that crappy buses in S. America that were falling apart were more comfortable than ths brand new looking train in China when we weren’t even in the cheapest hard seats! And this man was staring at me. It was creeping me out. I tried to just keep my eye mask on so at least I wouldn’t see him. Miserable, miserable night.

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All the pretty places I’ve peed… 6 days in the Mongolian countryside

Friday, October 10th, 2008
Ulan Baatar, Mongolia. What a wonderful trip we had! We went with Tseren Tours, and because we were on a short time-line, we didn't find any other travelers who wanted to share the trip (and so lower the costs) for us. ... [Continue reading this entry]

Smelly and tired but at least my tummy’s full

Wednesday, October 8th, 2008
Beijing, China. We just arrived back in Beijing after 28 hours of traveling from Mongolia. The trip back was pretty uneventful except that we didn't really eat a meal all day today (just bread, cheese, pickles and other snacks) until after ... [Continue reading this entry]