Nara
I finally escaped the grasp of Osaka for a day and took a day trip to Nara, the first permanent capitol of Japan. About a week ago I talked to a university student from the city who offered to show me around when I came down. I met Yang at the train station and she began to show me around Nara-koen and the collection of temples and shrines.
Our first stop, Kofukuji wasn’t too impressive. It looked like any other temple complex in Japan, but the structures were original wooden constructs rather than the concrete replicas you find everywhere else. I kept thinking how sick I am of seeing temples and shrines. They all have a unique character, but after the initial awe inspired visits there is not too much appeal left. It definitely lowered my expectations for where we were headed next.
On the way to Todai-ji we taught each other more words from our native languages. I’ve been learning quite a bit of Japanese, but Yang is Korean and was able to give me a few more useful phrases for my rapidly approaching trip in two weeks! Have I really been here that long?
One of the unique aspects of Nara that becomes apparent when walking around is its massive deer population. There are literally herds of them roaming the streets. In the past they were considered to be messengers from the gods, so they earned the status of national treasure and haven’t been forced out of town. They are fairly well ingrained in the community. Being far from timid, they have no qualms about harassing any of the tourists with food.
Eventually we reached the Nandaimon gate to Todai-ji. This impressive structure is gigantic. The site would be less impressive if it weren’t constructed from an ancient looking wood. Inside were two enormous, elaborately-carved wooden sculptures. Upon entering in this place, all of my doubts faded. It was truly an awesome sight to behold. Unfortunately, the mesh holding the building together alongside the hordes of tourists and school children prevented any worthwhile photos.
Further down the path we came across the Daibutsu-den; this structure is currently the largest wooden building in the world, and more impressively is only two-thirds of its original size! Inside sits a fifteen meter tall bronze Buddha surrounded by an assortment of gigantic wooden statues, tourists and even a gift shop. The experience would have been down right magical if it weren’t for the over-abundance of people.
We made our way outside and away from the crowds to the Nigatsu-do temple on the side of the Wakakusa-yama hill. This magnificent temple offers a remarkable view of Nara-Koen and the surrounding valley. Unlike most of the modernized shrines and concrete reproductions, the buildings here really show their age. Just being there takes you back in time to another era.
Click for a 180 degree panorama from Nigatsu-do
Before parting ways, we went to an Izakaya for Yang’s birthday celebrations. Around 11:15p I began a mad dash back to the station to catch the last train. I got there with a minute to spare, but unfortunately ended up on the wrong platform. I quickly raced to the other, and arrived just in time to see the train pull away. Ahhh… another homeless night.
I slept on a park bench and was miraculously spared a rude-awakening by the deer populace. Before heading home in the morning I took a quick stroll through the fog-shrouded Kufukuji complex again. This time there were no crowds and I was able to enjoy solitude as the rising sun peaked over a building possessing over a thousand years of history.
Nara gave me hope for Kyoto. Maybe I can find more of the original awe and mysticism that overwhelmed me when I stumbled across the first shrine in Tokyo.
Click here for all of my photos from Nara
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Tags: - Panorama, - Photography, Asia, Japan, Japan: Kansai, Kansai, Temple
Adam Shane
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