Back Alley Establishments
After all of the drinking I did last night, I was surprised to wake up relatively early. Took advantage of the fact that I can now bath more frequently then twice a week and hopped in for a quick shower before heading out for the day… Ah! I still had a few hours to kill before meeting Horiyou to discuss a new tattoo I want to start. I slowly headed in the direction of Oostuka and took a few photos of regular Tokyo city-life on the way.
Kanako and Yuri met me at the train station, and we made our way down the back alleys of Ootsuka to find the elusive irezumi studio hidden on the 4th floor of a very non-descript building. Upon entering the shop we were greeted by Horiyou, the owner and artist who came so highly recommended. His shop was welcoming, adorned in stylish artwork backed by chill electronic music.
I gave him a rough sketch of a landscape scene featuring Japanese elements. He didn’t speak much English, but Kana was able to translate and help conjure up an image that he could draw. While waiting for his design, we perused his artwork and photographs of previous work. Page after page our jaws were dropping. His skill as an artist is superior! Every picture was captivating and we stared for ages at the meticulous detail and flawless execution of every one.
This went on for nearly an hour with no lulls in the excitement over his caliber of work until I stumbled upon one of his original designs. It was a traditional yakuza-style irezumi depicting a scene from the legend of Oniwakamaru. I instantly fell in love with the piece of art and after some very cautious, deep tough I halted the original design work and told Horiyou I wanted this design. He was more than happy to accommodate, and we made arrangements to start in two days with the first 5 hours of this 10 hour tattoo.
Leaving the shop, I was in a state of pure elation over the anticipation to have this amazing piece of art and reminder of my time in Japan. We took the train to Shibuya to meet with Adam from the farm and grab some lunch. After wandering the streets looking for a suitable restaurant, we settled on an Okonmiyaki. The concept is simple; you order a set of ingredients and cook it yourself on a large metal surface at your table. I’m not exactly sure what all the ingredients were, but I know there was pork, kimchi, egg and a few unidentifiables. It was definitely one of the most taste-bud satisfying meals of my life. The longer I stay here it shocks me more and more that out of all the delicious foods here only sushi and sake really made it to America. I strongly recommend that you come to Japan just to try Okonomiyaki… and yakitori… and soba… and shochu… and just about everything else you can find to eat here! Just about everything I’ve had has been nothing short of phenomenal!
After lunch, the four of us went back to Kanako’s to take a quick rest, but I had to part ways soon. I was meeting Ai for dinner in Shinjuku before heading out to Indigo in Roppongi to meet up with my other friends from the rave last weekend. This tiny club was also hidden on the 4th floor of another nondescript building in a rarely trafficked back alley. Behind two large steel doors was a pulsating techno party. It turned out to be another wondrous night of great conversation with local friends, dining, dancing and drinking. At some point I was even passed a Djembe and encouraged to play long to the music.
Eventually it was time to head out and find a place to crash. I wandered out on to the street at dawn, and after a few minutes ran into Megumi, a girl from Fukoua who just moved to Tokyo recently. She ended up giving me a place to stay in Kawaguchi for the next couple days. We spent our time relaxing, eating more delicious food and talking for hours on end in this less populated section of Tokyo. It was a well needed, refreshing respite from all of the work at the farm, and partying in Tokyo.
Tags: Asia, Food, Japan, Japan: Toyko, Tokyo
Adam Shane
it is great to see that you are truly living life my friend. many people will never ever be able to say that…..
kelly and i are actually going to start planning and two week long trip to paris and then spain for next summer. we should meet on the road!
lets see some good shots of the tattoo work brotha!
nikki sends her love.
be well,
-george.
Sounds like I am missing some damn good times…!
Keep it up man, I hope we cross paths in the field some day.
– Greg
Otsukaresamadeshita Adam!!! Such inspiring photos and stories!!
Yay for okonomiyaki, tattoos, and living life!! If you had any doubts about this adventure before you left, I’m sure you look back at them now and laugh (and breath a sigh of relief that you didn’t give into fear:-)
Even if your travels ended tomorrow, just think of how much this experience has enriched your life already… and you’ve only JUST begun!!!