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The business about Cambodia

Sunday, February 19th, 2006

2/18-2/19

I looked at my schedule and realized I would be flying to China in a week. Time in S.E. Asia is running out. At breakfast I pretended to flip a coin, out of a desire for romanticism really, even though I knew I wanted to forgo my search for a remote Thai island and head overland to Siem Reap, Cambodia with Louise. The prospect of wandering through the temples of Angkor while continuing to hear about her travels in Africa, sold me. Angkor it was.

We spent the rest of the day on a bus from Khao Sok to Surat Thani, then a sleeper train that pulled into Bangkok just past 6AM. (2/19) Then it was the subway to the #3 bus, and onto another air con bus to the eastern border town of Aranya Prathet. We decided to stay the night in A.P. for many reasons. First of all, we had no idea what the border crossing would be like. Not wanting to go blindly into a very poor country, and having no dollars on hand, the primary (or most useful) currency in Cambodia, we got a couple of rooms. The decision paid off in spades. Not only did we get to change our baht to greenbacks the next morning, but we thoroughly enjoyed this sleepy border town, its lack of tourists, lack of English, and vibrant night festival.

Tiger Man Love You Long Time

Friday, February 17th, 2006

We all decided to visit the oft spoke of lake, or rather Chieo Lan Reservoir, that the local guides compete to take the park visitors to. I mean they really talk up this lake. We decided to go with “the tiger man” because he calls himself Tiger Man. It’s hard to argue with that. On the drive to the lake I had an hour one on one with him and discovered he used to go on 7-10 day treks through the jungle looking for the rare beasts. He stopped because “Tiger Man has high blood pressure.” He figures there used to be 100 tigers in Khao Sok, down now to around 15 due to poaching. Long gone also are the Java and Sumatran Rhinos that I was surprised to learn had once wandered S.E. Asia.Tiger Man is full of boyish energy and has all the trademark one-liners of a seasoned guide. He became such a popular guide, according to him, that other “Tiger Men” started turning up to improve their business. Now he sports the tattoo “Tiger Man Love You” so that you never forget. He is the original.

The lake did turn out to be beautiful, with deep green waters the perfect swimming temperature lined with jutting limestone cliffs. Once a farming valley, the reservoir and dam now supply the south with electricity and water. These resources, together with the relocation money given to the old inhabitants of the lake by the Thai government might explain the wealthier veneer of these Thais. Nice homes, new trucks, and well-fed dogs are common sights, perhaps paid for from the flow of the dam, creating enough electricity to sell to Malaysia even.

We came to the end of our scenic long boat trip across the lake to find rows of huts floating on bamboo. After lunch and swimming, we took another short boat ride to begin our jungle trek to one of the many limestone caves in Khao Sok. The hike was cooler and remote than yesterday, crisscrossing through trees and stone monoliths of limestone and clay, occasionally the droning purr of the jungle pierced by the swooshing flight of a startled Great Horn bill. Amazing! And along the hike, our playful guides Tiger Man and Jahm were making leaf hats, bamboo flutes, and pointing out the utility and dangers of the jungle.

Then came the cave. The guides had spoken so emphatically about the lake, where I was amazed by the long winding cavern. I’ve been to caves where you go in, then come out. We went through this one, tromping through the underground creek past thousands of bats, hand-sized spindly spiders, crabs, and fish; finally ending neck deep in water at the exit.

It was another peaceful, tiring day in Khao Sok, with a bittersweet ending. The Aussie boys, Dave and Alex had to take off for Khao Lak to get scuba certified. Friends come and go where home’s on your back.

Giving blood in Thailand

Thursday, February 16th, 2006
I have found three great travel companions for my time in Khao Sok. A British woman named Louise is an epidemiologist who has been working on AIDS/HIV research in Tanzania, and two Aussie boys from Sydney, both 26, have ... [Continue reading this entry]

Bored of the Beach

Wednesday, February 15th, 2006
I spent one night in Krabi awaiting my transit to Khao Sok National Park. I'm happy I did as it's a nice little coastal town that is both comfortable for travelers and rich in Thai culture. I spent ... [Continue reading this entry]

The American dream comes home to roost

Tuesday, February 14th, 2006
The American dream is alive and thriving well...in America. We have successfully exported our hamburgers, blue jeans, and fizzy drinks around the globe, and now there appear to be very few Americans out and about enjoying all of the ... [Continue reading this entry]

I love you 1000 baht

Monday, February 13th, 2006
Up early and caught the first boat to Krabi this morning. It was just a boat ride away from Railay, another beach resort that is separated into Railay east and west on opposite sides of a peninsula. Just above ... [Continue reading this entry]

“The beach” the beach

Sunday, February 12th, 2006
Today is my last day on Phi Phi as I'm growing tired of the tourists here. Tomorrow morning I will take the boat to Krabi and plan to do some rock climbing on neighboring Railay and Tonsai beaches.Today me ... [Continue reading this entry]

Grishams and Graftons

Sunday, February 12th, 2006
I can see why people get lost on the beaches of southern Thailand. There is something here for everyone. There are parties for the partier, beer aplenty and cheap, white sand beaches, food to die for, and everyone ... [Continue reading this entry]

Stumbling out of the jungle

Friday, February 10th, 2006
2/10/06 I'm starting to settle in here on Ko Phi Phi nicely, finally getting some solid sleep. Last night I saw some Thai boxing, enjoyed a couple of beers, and chatted with some Swedish girls. Sports, beer, and Swedish ... [Continue reading this entry]

Day two in Bangkok

Wednesday, February 8th, 2006
Last night I met the coolest group of people at Suk 11, the coolest guest house in Bangkok. How fitting. This place exudes charm from every crack of it's four stories. People have plastered their names and ... [Continue reading this entry]