just like, WOW!!
by Rach who is still in awe (and Rob composed the title <wink>)
Siem Reap, Cambodia
Christmas breakfast is usually a light affair for us and this year was no exception; local oranges, baby bananas and perfect mangoes. (In fact, yesterday we had eaten breakfast in a stable-like establishment shack and commented how nativity-ish it was.)
A church service usually follows, but this year we went to a different place of worship – the ancient temple complex of Angkor Wat. With over 600 temples in the area (and over 2000 in the whole country), we were never going to see them all in one day. But what we did see left us in awe. The magnitude, the age (some over a thousand years old), the work, the lives represented, the worship – it was all magnificent. As is the reconstruction effort. No doubt the giant archaeological jigsaw puzzle is made more difficult by the fact that the French used many temple stones to pave roads when they conquered this area – but impressive rebuilding is underway.
Angkor Wat was brought to the attention of the French and British almost 150 years ago. It is often claimed that it was “rediscovered” by a westerner, but let’s not forget the Khmer had never “lost” their worship places, and had indeed been using many of them, even in their state of disrepair. Over the course of hundreds of years stones had tumbled, statues had disappeared, lichen had grown and massive trees had taken root in the walls, which had subsequently crumbled. Caught in the grip of the forest, one of the temples, Ta Prohm, is now a series of dark passageways leading to open courtyards, throughout which are scattered piles of volcanic rock and sandstone, remnants of statues, often-headless Buddhas, and sandy paths. Every doorway affords a new view, and the openings are many. Photographic opportunities abound overwhelmingly.
There is also opportunity for a significant comparison of stories.
The intricate bas-reliefs extending along the walls were carved by numerous craftsmen, but all look like one artist was at work. Scenes of daily life and warfare merge to give a people’s history. Sounds just like a book I’ve read, one that was penned by many authors, but with one Master Artist inspiring. Scenes of daily life and warfare merge to give a people’s history.
Ta Prohm Photo Album (that’s the one with trees overgrowing the temples)
The Bayon Photo Album (spectacular monument dedicated to a mother)
And that was just the morning.
We returned in the afternoon, with a view to watching the sunset turn the largest religious monument in the world, Angkor Wat, golden. Unfortunately thick cloud cover prevented this, but we got more pictures and were amazed by the architectural accomplishment, not to mention the size of this series of structures. Stories of who and why and when seemed to bring the stones to life, and we were surprised most by the thought that whereas in one of the morning temples where the conquering Hindus changed sitting Buddha wall carvings into their cross-legged hermits by carving some legs and giving them a special hat, in this temple the exact opposite was happening. The Hindu gods have saffron robes draped over their shoulders to turn them into Buddhist objects of worship. Seems fascinating that it’s so easy to change your god. As I was thinking about this, we walked down by a pond where frogs were squeakily chorussing….the closer to the water we stepped, the more in danger of stepping on these little creatures we were. Made me think of the plague of frogs sent by our own God. Never before had we heard frog-song, and never before had we seen so many frogs. Now we can imagine the plague.
Angkor Wat Photo Album (that’s the biggest one)
“Do you find this to be a spiritual place?” ever-thoughtful Mr H asked.
Without a moment’s hesitation I replied, “No, it feels empty.” Interestingly, he had just used the exact same word when discussing the question with Mrs H.
There were very few worshippers offering prayers or burning incense sticks. There were no meditative twenty-something tourists. There were hardly even any monks. There was just an enormous ancient building with statues missing limbs and heads, huge pyramids with steep stairs, crumbling walls, massive stones, over a thousand apsara dancers and almost as many tourists.
And a special Christmas treat for Grandparents who are missing the grandies….a whole Photo Album of Angel Portraits and Fun Kid Shots. They are so cute!
Look, H-family – they really are here!!
Tags: God, history, postcard: Cambodia, recreation, tradition
rayres
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