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down on the farm

Saturday, August 29th, 2009

same place as yesterday, Italy – so nice we didn’t move on

chickens clucking
ducks quacking
donkeys braying
dogs gnawing on bones

doves cooing
roosters crowing
horses neighing
reindeer banging a box

geese gaggling
wasps humming
sheep baaing
peacock screeching a howl

emus staring
goats butting
rabbits hopping
cat meows under our van

And that was all before breakfast!!! When you stay on a farm you’ve got to expect the predawn chorus….and in this case, it continued on all day. Much to the children’s merriment, the donkey returned Rob’s heehaws, the deer bounced round and round their pen in post-rain exuberance (yes, it rained – a magnificent summer storm dropped suddenly from the sky with lightning flashes and deep rolling thunder and mercifully plunged the temperature to 26 degrees and everyone spent the afternoon shivering!!!), and an Italiano boy recorded the peacock’s screeching on a voice recorder and played it back to the bird, who answered in reply.

We like farm life.
Of course, we are not responsible for feeding the animals or collecting the eggs or cleaning enclosures or retrieving straying animals or shearing the fleece or shovelling manure or mending fences…..but we’d like to be. Each farm we stay on confirms this thought. The rural life beckons.

 

Is that why we feel so relaxed here? For the first time in Italy, Rob commented last night, he feels relaxed. It’s not that we have disliked the place, but both the men have just been a little on edge. Maybe it’s their friendly counterparts, who have come to our van to warn of pickpockets and thieves, maybe it’s the erratic driving taking its toll, maybe it’s that initially we were not used to everything closing for half the day and then reopening late (and needing to wait until 9pm for the pizza ovens to be fired up), maybe it was the surprise that it was nothing like what we had imagined, and bore little resemblance to the countries we had just left, maybe it was the unexpected frequent feeling that *this is like Asia* (the scruffiness, the people piled on motorbikes, the crazy driving, the heat, the litter, the peeling paint, the fenced compounds, the motorbikes driving the wrong way up the street, the beggars – but this is meant to be Europe, not Asia), maybe it’s the raw barren countryside, maybe it’s that people do not engage with us the same as they have in other countries (we had heard there’s a bit of anti-German feeling in Italy and we are wondering if our numberplates are doing us no favours), maybe it’s following road signs to find a supermarket but the signs peter out to nothing without any sign of any shop anywhere nearby, maybe it’s that this has happened four times, maybe it’s the lack of language ability (although we were certainly worse off in Vietnam and Laos and Thailand to begin with), maybe for Rob anyway, it’s apprehension at the places we are about to visit (Macedonia where you have to register with the police, Serbia where they water down the gas and allegedly have the worst drivers in Europe, Bosnia where they were fighting a war not so long ago), and maybe, just maybe it’s a little bit of all these things.
Whatever it is, we are relaxed *here*. It’s a pleasant feeling. 

heehaw

soul food

Friday, August 28th, 2009

somewhere near Altamura on the SouthEast Coast, Italy

We woke in mozarella di buffala country…..from Naples onwards we had seen billboards and shops advertising the cheese the region is famous for and we had resolved to try it. Surely one of the better decisions we have made on this excursion!
Here it is on last night’s ham-filled pasta:

And here’s the fruit-filled tart that finished off the dinner….well finished for most of us. The Men headed out for an iced coffee I’d told them about, but being unable to find it had to settle for a hot coffee and gelato. I got the iced version for them this morning!

Before leaving this morning we made sure we bought more mozarella, confident the five small balls would have no difficulty travelling cross-country in their little brine-filled package.
And so on the other side of the mountains, the buffalo milk delicacy topped our bow-shaped pasta salad, with a bunch of coriander (given in place of change when the shop we were purchasing from didn’t have the right coinage!), cherry tomatoes, cocktail onions, and finally bacon and zuchinni sauteed in garlic. Simple, but delicious. (Actually this was just a starter for the Two Big Boys….as I write they are eating their real dinner at the restaurant where we are staying – we can stay here for 10euros a van or if they pay only a little more for food we can stay for free. As the restaurant did not open until “8 or 8:30 or 9”, there was no way the kids’ stomachs would have lasted that long…besides, it would have then cost a lot more than 20euros!!! When we arrived I made enquiries about what the restaurant served…..I had to wait ten minutes while the chef decided what he would be cooking today!!!! The Men will be hoeing into a steak with wild mushroom sauce or veal or lamb if the chef hasn’t changed his mind!) 
Before leaving this morning we also indulged in two huge bags of bread rolls. We had found a store selling rolls that were much less dry than all the breads we had encountered in the north. They were much more to our liking, but we didn’t know if they were peculiar to that bakery – and just in case they were, we bought enough for two days. We have since discovered all bread is more “cake-like” as opposed to “cardboard-like” in the whole of the south as it is made with semolina flour.

We have spent the past few days saying we can understand why people would cruise around the Mediterranean, avoiding the hideous driving and dreadful roads. Today we appreciated being our own tour guides. We left the crowds behind, the roads widened and even smoothed out a bit and we met relatively few cars in the wrong lane. We travelled through green like the past week or so, occasionally finding towns perched on hilltops.

“A city built on a hill cannot be hidden.” The cities in Italy do not hide in the valleys, they parade down from the top of peaks.

We came suddenly and unexpectedly to a Very Steep Hill, which we crawled up in first gear with heaters blasting to coax the vans into not overheating. At the top, the difference was dramatic. One side was green, the other brown. And when I say brown, I mean there was no colour other than brown. Obviously there is no moisture left in the clouds to drop on this side of the mountains!

Rob’s voice came through the walkie-talkie, “See how the farmer waits for the land to yield its valuable crops and how patient he is for the autumn and spring rains.”
As gardeners in Auckland, we have little need to wait patiently for rain…today this thought, which we recite frequently, came alive.

So barren. So dry. So brown. The colours all looked like a washed out watercolour painting. Even the sky was a pale powdery blue, just a hint of colour – such a contrast to the deep blue arc of Provence.


don’t worry about the multitasking madman driving and quoting passages and getting ready to turn lights on in the tunnel and photographing – all at the same time – all on a bridge….you can rest assured the barriers are high, the road was so steep we were crawling and there was no traffic – besides, as you can see, he is being very careful to stay far from the middle line!

kids click

Thursday, August 27th, 2009
Paestum, Italy A quiet day at the beach with pictures of clear blue water reflecting clear blue sky, a heat haze shimmering on the horizon, just might be too taunting a post two days in a row. But looking through ... [Continue reading this entry]

beach blessings

Wednesday, August 26th, 2009
Paestum, Italy

We have seen a famous volcano (Vesuvius), accidentally ... [Continue reading this entry]

neapolitan christmas

Tuesday, August 25th, 2009
Battipaglia, Italy As a child, neapolitan meant icecream to me. Chocolate, strawberry, vanilla. Of course, it is also “of naples”. And today that’s where we went.

 

We only spent a couple of hours in the historic town ... [Continue reading this entry]

the untold story of italy

Monday, August 24th, 2009
Bacoli – virtually Naples, Italy Have you ever watched those travel documentaries or family-goes-to-find-their-dream-property-in-Italy programmes or read books of the same ilk? We’d read the books, but have heard the televised version exists too. However, I’m beginning to wonder if ... [Continue reading this entry]

follow the fountain

Sunday, August 23rd, 2009
Rome, Italy When the temperature gets up to the high thirties...and even creeps up into the forties...these little kiwis feel HOT. Fortunately, a fantastic place for this to occur is Rome with its over 1,500 fountains constantly spurting fresh cool ... [Continue reading this entry]

when in Rome….

Saturday, August 22nd, 2009
….let your imagination run wild.

I scurry from shadow to shadow, snatching what cool I can, evading the fierce rays beaming down from the eternally blue canopy. I wait in line at one of the ... [Continue reading this entry]

all roads lead to Rome

Friday, August 21st, 2009
Rome, Italy yea, even the bumpy, patched, pitted, potholed ones. At least that’s the one we came in to the great city on. Not that we have made it right in to town. We’re basking in the shade of the ... [Continue reading this entry]

super market (second take)

Thursday, August 20th, 2009
Santa Fiora, Italy At the risk of being monotonous, the supermarket features again today. Yesterday in the supermarket, behind a glass-faced counter was a tantalising bowlful of fresh white ricotta cheese. Even better, it was inexpensive. But not so cheap that ... [Continue reading this entry]