Borderlines/ A couple's journey through the Americas, South West Pacific and Asia |
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00 Introduction (2)
01 New York (2) 02 Mexico + C. America (4) 03 Florida (1) 04 Brazil (2) 05 Peru (2) 06 Bolivia (3) 07 Argentina (2) 08 Chile (1) 09 New Zealand (2) 10 Australia (2) 11 Singapore (1) 12 Thailand (2) 13 Lao PDR (3) 14 Cambodia (2) 15 China (2) 16 Tokyo (1)
Recent Entries
* Photos from Beijing / Fotos de Beijing
* Tokyo in Colour / Tokyo en color * Cityhopping in China / De ciudad en cuidad por China * Back in Bangkok / De neuvo en Bangkok * Cambodia's past and present / El pasado y presente de Camboya * Onwards to Angkor / De camino a Angkor * A little slice of paradise / Un pedacito de paraíso * Still on "Lao Time" / Seguimos en "Hora Laoense" * Crossing Borders / Cruzando Fronteras * Thailand in Brief / Tailandia en breve * A country within a city / Un país en una ciudad * Queensland: The Sunshine State / Queensland, el estado del Sol * Summer again / Verano de nuevo * Free Fall / Caída Libre * Land of Adventure / Tierra de Aventuras * A Week of Rest / Una Semana de Descanso * The Best for Last / Lo Mejor Para el Final * Back to Civilisation / De Vuelta a la Civilización * Last of Bolivia / Nuestro final en Bolivia * Bolivian Amazonia
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July 12, 2004Eternal Summer / Eterno Verano
Whenever we step off a plane, there's always an initial newness and kind of alien feeling while we find our feet. Arriving in Rio de Janeiro last June 24th was not any different! Since we'd spent the week before in Florida, with a car, it felt a bit strange having to lug our backpacks around with us again. Also for a few days previous to arrival, we were totally taken care of by Francis and Mike and were not used to having to fend for ourselves. To add to this, we were feeling a little edgy and tired from a very restless night time flight and worse still, all the security warnings about Rio that we'd got from multiple sources was not adding much to our comfort level. All of this combined, pointed to one thing... Get out of Rio! Buzios This little seaside resort was put on the map by Brigitte Bardot back in the sixties. It was a lot easier to handle this than the energy draining Rio (only a couple of hours away) and exactly what we were seeking. Because it's the low season and winter time in Brazil (which doesn't change too much from the summer temperature-wise) we almost had the place to ourselves. We obtained a room in a beach-front pousada so close to the sea that we fell asleep to its sound every night. Four days in this area introduced us to some of the best Brazilian delights; stunning beaches, fantastic food and excellent hospitality. Salvador de Bahia Janey Mac... this is one HUGE country! We travelled for 31 hours north and only covered less than one third the length of it! After this harrowing lesson on the size of Brazil, we turned up in Salvador like two zombies. On the same night we stumbled across an impressive local Capoeira (dance-cum-martial art) group who were practicing in a nearby fort. It was mind-blowing to watch each pair of people spin round, kicking in slow motion (which looked very much like "play fighting") while the rest of the group chanted and played some rhythmic instruments. The very next day celebrations for Brazil's Independence Day were in full flow. Brazilian's have their own unique way for having a party and in Salvador (or Bahia as it's locally known) this consisted of many different parades throughout the historical centre of the city and was backed up with plenty of noisy fireworks. Parades are a different affair than what we are used to from Ireland and we couldn't make out how the route was supposed to go. Several parades seemed to be going on at the same time and sometimes they even appeared to clash and cross paths with each other. The amount of people marching in any one parade varied in size from about twenty people to several hundred and usually consisted of a few band members playing drums while the people around danced and moved along with the band. What they lacked in organisation they certainly made up for enthusiasm as the streets were completely flooded with people heaving to and from around the hilly cobblestoned streets for the whole day long. One of the things that pleasantly surprised us about Bahia (apart from finding the best coconut ice cream in the world) was how warm and receptive the people were to us. Everyone went well out of their way to help us and overcharging was nothing that we needed to worry about. A few times cashiers in shops or waiters in restaurants would say "You've given me too much". This made a nice change from the countries we passed through in Central America where you really had to be on the ball and we just presumed that most of South America would be like this as well. On our first night at the Capoeira, a local, Alex, took us under his wing and showed us around the city centre. This was a great opening to see the real city in action and to bounce any questions we had about it around. As you can well imagine, two months into our travels due to necessity, rather than desire, we had to slow things down a bit. While taking a few days out to just chill we came to the conclusion that you don't need to see every single sight in a city to capture it's essence. Often, you can learn a great deal by just sitting in a local restaurant watching how people interact with each other (and of course interacting yourself). From now on we will probably be a little less ambitious with our plans and the idea will be to pick and choose a very small amount of things that we really want to see in a place and then leave everything else open. Trancoso To break up the journey back to Rio we made a stop about halfway in this remote village. This happened to coincide with the 4 year anniversary of us going out together and was a lovely place to spend it. Founded by the Jesuits back in the 1600's to spread Christianity to the Indians, this village is set up on top of a cliff which overlooks the rainforest touching the Atlantic and has to be seen to be believed. There were no street lights in the area (which means there is no light pollution) and the stars and satellites above are so vividly clear that they suck you in whenever you start to look for them. The surrounding wildlife includes many frogs, geckos, birds and fireflies and also makes it a very unique experience, both audibly and visually. One of the more interesting culinary delights was encountered here when we ordered a fairly innocent sounding "Chicken Curry". When it appeared on the table, accompanied by banana, apple and lentils we were a bit sceptical that this could all work together, but were then astonished as it turned out to be great. If you've got any bit of a sweet tooth, this is one dish that'll be right up your alley! **VERSION EN ESPAÑOL** Siempre que nos bajamos de un avión nos encontramos cara a cara con la novedad y un sentimiento de extrañeza. Todo eso a la vez que intentamos acostumbrarnos a la nueva cultura, comida, cabinas telefónicas y un mundo de cosas que varían entre país y país. Entre que Francis y Mike (los tíos de Kevin) nos mimaron de buena manera durante estancia con ellos y el haber tenido coche en Florida nos costó volver tener que encargarnos de todo y trasladarnos con los mochilones a la espalda. Cuando llegamos a Rio estábamos cansados del vuelo nocturno. Al cansancio se unían todas las advertencias de que Rio no era una ciudad segura así que sin pensárnoslo dos veces dijimos: Nos vamos de aquí ya! (si bien más por el momento...) Y llegamos a Búzios... Fue Brigitte Bardot quien colocó a Búzios en el mapa durante los años sesenta al ser fotografiada en varias de las playas que bañan este pequeño edén. Salvador de Bahía Mamma mia!! este país es GIGANTE!!! Viajamos hacia el norte durante 31 horas y tan solo cubrimos menos de una tercera parte de la longitud del país! Al día siguiente se celebraba el día de la independencia en Brasil. De buena mañana experimentamos lo que es una celebración al estilo brasileño. Tambores, bandas de música, desfiles de gente bailando por las cuestas adoquinadas del centro histórico. Petardos, ruido, multitudes que no parecían seguir una ruta estipulada... así que sin saber realmente a que plaza o parte del centro se dirigían nos unimos a la muchedumbre. Al llegar a la plaza principal el gentío se fue dispersando y nos fuimos a tomar algo con el grupo con el que salimos la noche anterior. A este grupo se añadió un profesor de Capoeira, Alex, al que conocimos la noche anterior y quien nos mostró los lugares que frecuentan la gente del pueblo. Fue una experiencia muy interesante y si teníamos alguna pregunta el nos la contestaba con mucho gusto. Una cosa que nos sorprendió agradablemente en Bahía (a parte de encontrar el mejor helado de coco del mundo) fue el calor y respeto con el que fuimos recibidos y tratados. La gente nos intentaba ayudar en todo lo que podían y nunca nos trataron de cobrar un Real (moneda local) más de la cuenta. Es más, si por alguna razón les dábamos de más, nos lo decían. Esto contrastó con la manera en la que viajábamos en algunos países de América central donde teníamos que estar a la retaguardia en todo momento para que no nos timaran. Y bueno, como os podréis imaginar, después de viajar durante dos meses seguidos tuvimos (por necesidad más que por placer) que pausar el ritmo al que viajábamos. Trancoso En el camino de regreso a Rio paramos en una pequeña aldea llamada Trancoso. Coincidió con que hacía 4 años que Kevin y yo empezamos a salir por lo que pensamos que esta minúscula parte del mundo sería el lugar perfecto para celebrar nuestro aniversario. Fundada por los Jesuitas en el siglo XV para la propagación de la cristiandad por el pueblo indio, esta aldea se construyó a lo alto de un acantilado con vistas a una selva que roza el Atlántico. Si... realmente hay que verlo para creerlo. Comments
Things Have Gotten Better! for YOU and YOU! Hey KEV AND NATE! Finally oni gave me your site address today! fantastic site and well done the two of you - SO FUCKING JEALOUS but at least i can live my travelling dreams thru you!! YOUR GOING AWAY PARTY in our humble opinions was considered the best night ever. i definately think i peaked that night and ever day since, has been only ok. great to see you're getting on well... at the moment, i write a monthly dublin report (- say, i might put it up here on bootsnall) which fills all my travelling friends in on what's happening in dublin - will send you on augusts version. take care and good luck! R Posted by: Rosticle on July 23, 2004 12:33 PMVaya tela con la rutita que os estais pegando!!!!!!!!! Aha, so rosticle would be your email address then? Glad that Eoiny passed on the details of our web presence to ya. Yep, things have certainly gotten better for us. We're having the time of our lives bumming around Latin America at the moment. Thanks for the comments and looking forward to Augusts edition of "The Dublin Report". Take it handy, |
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