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Catching our breath in Luang Prabang, Laos

Thursday, February 7th, 2008

Despite our hectic arrival to Luang Prabang, it was impossible to stress out for too long. Luang Prabang the type of town that must make the cover of “Traveler’s Magazine” time and time again. The buildings are of French architecture and there is beautiful soft lighting in the evening which make for a very romantic ambiance. Plus on top of that, there is hardly any traffic or loud noise. The aggressive street touts common in Vietnam seem nonexistent here. Another thing that we were delighted to find was pastries of all varieties (chocolate cake, brownies, banana bread, chocolate croissants). If you know Dan and I, this made it into a little piece of heaven for us.

For dinner we decided to head to a restaurant that was highly recommended in our guide book. As we started walking we stopped to see a beautiful night market which sold handicrafts, jewelry, purses, souvenirs and clothing. We saw a stand where fried noodles and fried rice were selling for only 30 cents a plate and decided to partake. They were quite delicious and filling. We then moved on only to find another market that sold only food. There were vegetarian buffets,fish and meats cooking on the grill, and other delicacies for sale, such as grilled pig heads. They had long picnic tables set up which were completely full with people dining on this delicious food. We grabbed a bit more food and realized that the way to dine well in Luang Prabang is not inside at a restaurant but on the street at these delicious food stalls.

According to our guidebook, Luang Prabang is the perfect city for sightseeing by bicycle. We decided that we would spend our second day in Luang Prabang doing just that. We spent the morning looking for bicycles to rent…the dialogue went something like this:

us: Do you have bicycles for rent?
them: no
us: Do you know where we can rent a bicycle?
them: no

So, after talking to about ten people, finally, one kind Laotian guest-house clerk decides to say a little more and explains that it is against the law to rent bicycles to foreigners in Luang Prabang. Forgetting that you are not supposed to criticize the Laos government, I express my disbelief and then share my thoughts on the gross stupidity of that law. Later, while walking around we run into two other groups of foreigners who are on the wild goose chase of finding a bicycle to rent in Luang Prabang.

Making a run for the border…

Tuesday, February 5th, 2008

We left Hanoi on an early flight to Luang Prabang, Laos. We had our passport photos ready to give for the visa and thought we were ready to go. Oops. Here’s a lesson in having the right amount of travel money when entering a new country… I guess we got a little relaxed. oh well.

When we landed in Luang Prabang, we felt great. The temperature was about 70 degrees F and the sun was out. The air was light and the people would smile as they say Sabai-dee (Hello). We got in line, passport photos and documents in order, like good little travelers (pro’s, right?).

Them: “ok, that will be 35USD for each.. 70USD total, please.”
Us: “Um, we don’t have dollars, can we use credit card?”
Them: “no”
Us: “Can we use Vietnamese dong?”
Them: “no. Kip or USD. Can exchange.”
Us: “uh, What if we don’t have enough dong to exchange?”
Them: “You can exchange.”
Us: “Don’t understand… how does exchange give us more money?”
Them: “ATM in city.”
US: “We can leave the airport?”
Them: “Go that way.”

So we left our passports (held hostage) at the airport and had to find the one ATM in all of Luang Prabang. As we are trying to get to the city center, we hear people saying that there is actually no ATM in all of Luang Prabang. A major tourist destination with no ATM?… inconceivable to our western minds, but since Milford Sound (New Zealand) had the ATM and gas station issues, we fear the worse case. In the end, there is one ATM and a very long line behind it. So I watch the bags in the Tuk-Tuk as Paula gets the money. A 700,000 Kip max (70USD) means she had to withdraw 3 times. Back to the airport we go. After spending more time than is worthwhile talking our way the wrong way back through security, we pay for our visas, collect our passports and re-enter Laos as proper visitors.

Dan