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The Darker Side of Cambodia

Monday, January 21st, 2008

It is impossible to visit Cambodia without seeing and experiencing the sad aftermath of the 20th century civil war which culminated in the genocidal rule of the Khmer Rouge from 1975 to 1979. The Khmer Rouge, led by Pol Pot, implemented one of the most heinous revolutions to date. The idea was to forcibly turn Cambodia into a Maoist, peasant-dominated, agrarian cooperative. During their four years in power they relocated hundreds of thousands of Cambodians to the countryside to become agricultural workers. Phnom Penh, the country’s capital, was left virtually empty. People who were educated, spoke another language, or wore glasses (thus appearing intelligent) were tourtured and killed. Food provisions were also scarce and many died of malnutrition. The Khmer Rouge soldiers were mainly children and teenagers.

We visited a high school in Phnom Penh, which was converted to a prison and torture facility by the Khmer Rouge. They had taken pictures of all the prisoners and they are now hanging in the museum. There are hundreds and hundreds of photos including many young children. The prisoners were tourtured and made to give false confessions and the vast majority were taken to the killing fields outside of Phnom Penh and executed. What is most astounding is that these atrocities were all committed for the purpose of an incredibly stupid social experiement.

Even though Cambodia is now at peace, they are not in a great position as their most educated citizens were killed and there is immense poverty and poor infrastructure and rampant corruption throughout the country. An astounding forty percent of Cambodia’s population is under the age of 15 as approximately 2 million people died during the Khmer Rouge regime. Walking around at night in Phnom Penh you see babies sleeping on the sidewalk with their mothers and young street children selling odds and ends.

Another problem that continues to plague Cambodia is the presence of landmines. As the landmines are designed to maim, not kill, thousands of people in Cambodia have lost a limb/limbs or their eye sight due to land mine accidents.

Despite all their suffering, the people of Cambodia have proven to be quite resilient and they are slowly rebuilding their country and cities. They are also extremely friendly. As we walked about children would smile and say “hello” repeatedly. I think they like the musical quality to the word.

Paula

Monkeying around in Cambodia

Friday, January 18th, 2008

We arrived to Siem Reap early in the morning and were overjoyed to find that we could stay in a very nice guest house for only $6 US. We decided the best way to see the temples of Angkor would be by bicycle. We paid our 50 cents and were off. After dodging the motorbikes, busses and cars to get out of the city we had our own little stretch of pavement, at least for a little while. There are ruins of the Angkor temples all over and seeing them really should be done over the course of a few days. However, we decided that we would tackle the circuit in one day. The temples are extraordinarily impressive. They rank up there with Macchu Picchu and the Great Pyramids (so I hear). You can check out our pictures to see what I am talking about. Getting back to the bicycling, it turns out that is not a good way to see the temples at all. Without a driver, we got lost a few times, taking us approximately 5 miles off course. That was not such a big problem in and of itself but upon returning from our wrong turn, I realized that my tire had gone completely flat leaving me (or Dan) with another 15 miles of riding on a flat tire.

Despite the impressive temples we viewed, I have to admit though that the highlight of my day was feeding the monkeys outside the temples. I bought a half dozen bananas from a street vendor and held them out to the monkeys. The monkeys would first look at me suspiciously and then take the banana right out of my hand, peel them and eat them up. Some of them are a bit lazy though and would not take the banana unless I peeled it for them. After deciding that I wasn’t wasting our money on bananas afterall, Dan joined in the fun. He took a banana from his bunch to feed to a monkey but the monkey was uninterested, or so it seemed. Dan was caught off guard when the money went for the bunch in his other hand rather than settling for one single banana. Luckily Dan was able to grab the bunch back but you really have to keep an eye on these cheeky monkeys. Another monkey jumped in my bicycle basket and stole my packet of tissues. I thought it was kind of funny and no big deal but the banana vendor took off chasing the monkey on a mission to reclaim my stolen property. That really only made it more entertaining for the monkey who ran around in circles with her closely following him. For us it added up to top notch entertainment.

Paula